RichG
Daily Driver
nice job on those bushes would be great to get a copy of your dimensions when you get chance
Project midnight sunrise
- Thread starter Kendall
- Start date
rx1900
1981 X1/9
Hmmm...i dont think your 2 piece design would last long in service. As the rubber bushings wore, and the suspension moved....I think they would become dis-lodged and mangled. The original grommet was a one-piece design that popped into the hole in the bracket.
And not sure why you bothered to go through all that effort. Proper one piece radius rod grommets ARE available from Eurosport:
X1/9 Radius Arm Bracket Grommet : Eurosport (UK), FIAT X19 Bertone & Lancia Montecarlo Beta Scorpion spare parts
Eurosport (UK) X1/9 Radius Arm Bracket Grommet - Front radius arm (stabilizer rod / tie bar) bracket bush. Centres the arm in the body mounting bracket and prevents metal to metal contact. The original bush can fatigue over time and is often found to be cracked or split. This is an upgraded...
www.eurosport-uk.net
And I too have plenty in stock.
But you did save 6 bucks
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If you refer to this thread you will find that the original bushings are a two piece design.Hmmm...i dont think that 2 piece design would last long in service. As the rubber bushings wore, and the suspension moved....I think they would become dis-lodged and mangled.
And not sure why you bothered to go through all that effort. Proper one piece radius rod grommets ARE available from Eurosport:
X1/9 Radius Arm Bracket Grommet : Eurosport (UK), FIAT X19 Bertone & Lancia Montecarlo Beta Scorpion spare parts
Eurosport (UK) X1/9 Radius Arm Bracket Grommet - Front radius arm (stabilizer rod / tie bar) bracket bush. Centres the arm in the body mounting bracket and prevents metal to metal contact. The original bush can fatigue over time and is often found to be cracked or split. This is an upgraded...www.eurosport-uk.net
And I too have plenty in stock.
But you did save 6 bucks
radius rod bushing
Recently someone asked about this bushing http://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-12962-radius-rod-bracket-internal-bushing-fiat-bertone-x19-all-new.aspx which sits between the radius rod and the bushings that hold it to the body bracket. Mine looks like this: There's lots of space between the...
xwebforums.com
I'll make up a drawing that can be used in the near future.
rx1900
1981 X1/9
No...the original grommet is indeed a 1 piece design. This can be verified by a shot of my official Fiat parts diagram below.
Note it is indeed Fiat part # 4290680. Which is further verified as a 1 piece design by this vendor listing:
www.midwest-bayless.com
And this listing here - among others:
shop.oldtimerstore.de
That is what I have found in every X1/9 I have seen. I do believe the chap in that thread you reference is not correct here. But believe as you will.......
Note it is indeed Fiat part # 4290680. Which is further verified as a 1 piece design by this vendor listing:
Radius Rod Bracket Internal Bushing PAIR 2x (Fiat Bertone X1/9 All, 128 SL/3P, Lancia Scorpion) - NEW
Radius Rod Bracket Internal Bushing PAIR 2x (Fiat Bertone X1/9 All, 128 SL/3P, Lancia Scorpion) - NEW
www.midwest-bayless.com
Isolierring Zugstrebe für Vorderachse Fiat X1/9 A112 Panda 128 3P, Lancia Montecarlo - Oldtimerstore X1/9 Ersatzteile
Isolierring an der Zugstrebe für die Vorderachse. Reduziert das Spiel zwischen Karosseriehalterung und Zugstrebe. - sehr gutes Reproduktionsteil, exklusive nachgeferigt für uns - entspricht FIAT Teilenummer 4290680 bzw 7668397 (Nummern dienen nur zum Vergleich) - passt bei allen X1/9 , Panda (...
shop.oldtimerstore.de
That is what I have found in every X1/9 I have seen. I do believe the chap in that thread you reference is not correct here. But believe as you will.......
Today I got the front end back together. Here's another picture most of you have probably seen.
It was pretty interesting how much the rubber radius rod bushings compress. I guess that's the point to keep the end isolated. Next weekend will be the timing belt and retuning everything up.
Does anyone have any advice about setting the timing on a higher compression engine like this? The PO explained that basically if the engine pinged in the upper rpms he would dial back the timing. When I got it running last month I set the idle to be at 0 degrees, and it seemed okay. I'm not sure how much total advance the distributor he setup has. I would have to check. Does anyone have a good recording or description of what pinging sounds like? I'm not sure I would recognize it.
It was pretty interesting how much the rubber radius rod bushings compress. I guess that's the point to keep the end isolated. Next weekend will be the timing belt and retuning everything up.
Does anyone have any advice about setting the timing on a higher compression engine like this? The PO explained that basically if the engine pinged in the upper rpms he would dial back the timing. When I got it running last month I set the idle to be at 0 degrees, and it seemed okay. I'm not sure how much total advance the distributor he setup has. I would have to check. Does anyone have a good recording or description of what pinging sounds like? I'm not sure I would recognize it.
Just a quick question, I noticed today that it looks like my timing belt is walking a bit. Here is a picture.
It's right at the edge of the cam gear, maybe slightly over. Is this a problem?
When I changed the belt I went through a few rotations of the engine and then loosened the tensioner bearing and retorqued it. I did that a few times at different places in the rotation of the engine. Is there anything I should check? I would really hate to lose this belt and the engine because of it.
Thanks for your help.
It's right at the edge of the cam gear, maybe slightly over. Is this a problem?
When I changed the belt I went through a few rotations of the engine and then loosened the tensioner bearing and retorqued it. I did that a few times at different places in the rotation of the engine. Is there anything I should check? I would really hate to lose this belt and the engine because of it.
Thanks for your help.
NEG
True Classic
I have the same issue on my 1300. I replaced the cam and aux pulley and the belt rides the opposite to your picture IE against the lip but over hangs the aux wheel. With the original cam and aux pulleys it was the same as you have pictured. I’ve stopped unduly worrying over it but I do keep an eye on it!
A few updates. I have been able to knock out some projects for my x.
The shifter rattled pretty badly any time while driving. I bought the appropriate replacement parts from MWB but also pressed out the steel bushing at the bottom of the shifter. I machined a new close fitting bushing for the pin on my shift linkage and installed it. Liberal amounts of silicone grease were used putting the shifter back together. It feels great now with no slop.
I also finished my wheel centering rings/emblem holders. I think they look great. Of course, nothing being too easy, two of the wheels in my set have different relief bores in the back of the wheel. I'll have to trim my parts down just a bit so they fit beyond flush to the back of the wheel.
Here's some machining shots. I did the first side in a pressure turning setup. And the back side in a chuck.
The shifter rattled pretty badly any time while driving. I bought the appropriate replacement parts from MWB but also pressed out the steel bushing at the bottom of the shifter. I machined a new close fitting bushing for the pin on my shift linkage and installed it. Liberal amounts of silicone grease were used putting the shifter back together. It feels great now with no slop.
I also finished my wheel centering rings/emblem holders. I think they look great. Of course, nothing being too easy, two of the wheels in my set have different relief bores in the back of the wheel. I'll have to trim my parts down just a bit so they fit beyond flush to the back of the wheel.
Here's some machining shots. I did the first side in a pressure turning setup. And the back side in a chuck.