Project Mutant: Resurrection of an 82 FI basket case

FYI Fiats always used two different keys, one for the ignition and one for all the other locks. They are a different pattern of key entirely so what you received may have been correct.
Understood. The difference I am referring to is not the key or the front end, it is the back end of the tumbler. The ones I have in mu current door handles end in a couple half-moon slots where the small return spring connects and a slot that goes all the way through where the door lock actuator/door strike is secured. The ones I received with the ignition have a double bump, no slots, and I can't see a way to secure them in the handle nor attach them to the door lock actuator.
 
Project Mutant: Today, I cut into a perfectly good hood.

No, I am not ashamed of myself. One of the goals for my project is to get rid of old, rusty, and nonfunctional parts and simplify the vehicle where I can. So, I am adding a racing 'style' hood latch that locks. I cut the hole for it today. It is not done yet, BUT I have a pretty good start.
20180711_191333.png
 
Project Mutant: Wow it's hot out there!

Hood latch now in place permanently. Cover for spare tirewell built and covered in sound deadening material. Will cover it in carpet when I carpet the rest of the interior.
20180714_175206.jpg


Side view mirrors in good shape, side windows and winders in good shape, Doors open, close and lock.

20180714_072313.jpg
20180714_072325.jpg


Still need to find one more windshield wiper post bezel, and a knurled part for the windshield wiper post. Tiny but important things.

20180714_072233.jpg
20180714_072251.jpg


Church tomorrow morning, then if I am done at the office, I'll do a cleanup of the frunk area, and start on the passenger floorboard rust removal and repainting.

Ordered my 2018 Fiat Freakout ticket, Aug 17/18/19 in Orlando. I will be driving down early in the mornings in my Cadillac (sigh) and probably not staying overnight. We'll see.
 
Project Mutant: If you squint really hard, in the near-dark, it looks pretty good.

No, seriously, one of the reasons for putting some gloss-like paint on top of the primer is that it makes it easier to see some problem areas, like some dimples that still remain on the hood. I need to get some of that really thin green Bondo for filling in those dimples. Dimples on a little girl = cute. Dimples in a body panel = more work.

20180715_085904.jpg
20180715_085917.jpg


I love mechanical and fabrication, and I detest electrical and body work. My hats off to folks who are skilled in those areas.
 
Project Mutant: If you squint really hard, in the near-dark, it looks pretty good.

No, seriously, one of the reasons for putting some gloss-like paint on top of the primer is that it makes it easier to see some problem areas, like some dimples that still remain on the hood. I need to get some of that really thin green Bondo for filling in those dimples. Dimples on a little girl = cute. Dimples in a body panel = more work.

View attachment 13181 View attachment 13182

I love mechanical and fabrication, and I detest electrical and body work. My hats off to folks who are skilled in those areas.

I think its an age thing, Carl and I have spoken of the same view on bodywork. That or I am just fundamentaly lazy. Likely lazy on my part.
 
Karl, I prefer the term "Knowing your limitations". No one can be the best at all things. I do not have enough spatial acuity to be able to 'see' when body work is right or wrong, and sheetmetal and I have a tenuous relationship at best. So, I will work hard with my ham-fisted attempts at getting bodywork right, but I am definitely NOT a Hussein. Some folks have the feel, some do not. I am in the latter group. But, I am humble enough to know that, and to know when I will need to bring in an expert. When I am ready for final paint, I will put the Mutant in the hands of an expert.
 
Project Mutant: Wow it's hot out there!

Still need to find one more windshield wiper post bezel, and a knurled part for the windshield wiper post. Tiny but important things.

View attachment 13177 View attachment 13178

If you're not in too much of a rush, the wiper transmissions are still on the parts car. My plan is to convert to the later bolt on style arms used by most everyone since the mid '80's. I was going to dismantle one of the spares to determine feasibility, but I don't need both to futz with.
 
Project Mutant: If you squint really hard, in the near-dark, it looks pretty good.

No, seriously, one of the reasons for putting some gloss-like paint on top of the primer is that it makes it easier to see some problem areas, like some dimples that still remain on the hood. I need to get some of that really thin green Bondo for filling in those dimples. Dimples on a little girl = cute. Dimples in a body panel = more work.

View attachment 13181 View attachment 13182

I love mechanical and fabrication, and I detest electrical and body work. My hats off to folks who are skilled in those areas.

Right there with ya... Bodywork is a B*tch! I'm STILL trying to find a painter that will at least use lubricant before raping me. I actually had a "Custom Car Restoration Technician", that's what he called himself, want to charge me 2000.00 to come over to my house, use my equipment, spray in my dirty garage. I almost crapped my pants. My go-to painter is slow so he thought he would attempt to bend me also, looks like it is what it is.

If anyone knows of a decent legit painter in the Houston area willing to shoot this turd of mine, lemme know. I'll drag it over on the rotisserie. Easy money right?

PAINT1.png PAINT2.png
 
Right there with ya... Bodywork is a B*tch! I'm STILL trying to find a painter that will at least use lubricant before raping me. I actually had a "Custom Car Restoration Technician", that's what he called himself, want to charge me 2000.00 to come over to my house, use my equipment, spray in my dirty garage. I almost crapped my pants. My go-to painter is slow so he thought he would attempt to bend me also, looks like it is what it is.

If anyone knows of a decent legit painter in the Houston area willing to shoot this turd of mine, lemme know. I'll drag it over on the rotisserie. Easy money right?

Please, it is a very nicely polished “turd” you have there.

I can’t say that i would call the product of your efforts a turd, that is some fine looking work right there any of us would be extremely proud to own and moreso have done. I think in this instance your slow painter would be a better option.
 
Please, it is a very nicely polished “turd” you have there.

I can’t say that i would call the product of your efforts a turd, that is some fine looking work right there any of us would be extremely proud to own and moreso have done. I think in this instance your slow painter would be a better option.


As always... Thanks for the vote of confidence. We shall see...
 
Project Mutant: Got the new rear decklid 'racing' latch installed. Still need to install the pin portion. Maybe tomorrow when it is still really early.

Also received a hood prop spring/pneumatic unit. However, the one I ordered is about 4 times stronger than it needs to be. It basically pushes so hard that the trunk kind of bends from the pressure. It is really nice how cheap they are on E-Bay. The new ones with 10lb lift per, will be here Monday, then it will just plug and play. I will take the heavy duty ones and figure out how to use them on the frunk lid.

So, still making progress. Have a million tiny tasks to get where it is roadworthy. It's been a year so far, and probably another 6 months before it is ready for paint.

20180721_122715.jpg
20180721_122722.jpg
 
Project Mutant: Saturday Take Two - The 56lb struts that I purchased are too strong for the rear decklid (not quite sure what I was thinking. Hindsight = duh!). BUT one of them works GREAT for the front trunk lid. No more using a prop rod for me! If I need more assist, I will have another 10lb and a another 56lb strut I can use.

I removed the only really nasty part of rust on the car, inside the rear trunk floorboard. Will weld up some braces, and put in some new sheet metal, insulation, and another layer of sheet metal. All will be removable when needed.

I will follow this trail of tasks until I reach the promised land!

20180721_153819.jpg
20180721_160130.jpg
 
How easily does the front come up with the 56lb unit and then how difficult is it to push down? Does it distort much in either instance?

The rear I assume is using the 10lb strut? Similar story?
 
Because I mounted the strut in the position I did, it provides minimal resistance, and not a lot of assist. You have to lift on the hood as if the strut was not there, until the hood is open about 50%, at which point you can feel assist. When the hood is open fully, the strut provides enough lift to keep the hood open (but would allow it to close in a reasonable breeze). And when closing, after the hood is 50% closed, it provides no assist, so you can't tell it is there. And because it pushes on the hinge, and when the hood is in a closed position, there is almost no upward pressure on the hood that would distort or cause bending.

On the rear, because of the mounting angle, and the strut being mounted directly to the lid itself (and being in a nearly upright position), a single 10lb strut should provide enough pressure to keep the lid fully open, and still allow it to close gently, and hopefully not deform or bend the lid in any way.

If I decide that I want some additional assistance on the frunk, like I say, I can add another strut, and if I choose a different angle, I could slow down the closing. For now, however, using a single strut on the front gives me the desired result. If anything, I might add the second 56lb strut in the same position on the opposite side, which would keep the hood upright in a stiff breeze, but also would not provide any assist after the hood is halfway down.

I think the term is 'overcenter'.
 
I removed the only really nasty part of rust on the car, inside the rear trunk floorboard. Will weld up some braces, and put in some new sheet metal, insulation, and another layer of sheet metal. All will be removable when needed.

I like the idea of a removable floor here. Would make it much easier to service the exhaust / O2 sensor on mine.

Why not put the trunk strut in the middle where the existing support is (since it won't distort the lid) ?
 
Project Mutant: Rear trunk progress.

New pneumatic trunk lid supports in place and working FABULOUS.

Old rotted trunk floor cut out and cleared away.

20180728_142036.jpg


Started work on an insulation sandwich to replace the old mess that was Fiat original. Steel angle and square tube bracing to replace floor, which will be bolted through the frame rails on either side, then a galvanized steel undertray pan filled with 1" thick ceramic wool (like the insulation used in a wood stove, for 1600-2400 degrees f), some aluminum channel to keep the galvanized top tray from bending (plus a couple pieces of high-strength steel sheet to ALSO keep the top from bending, should I ever decide to actually carry anything in there). All held together with stainless steel hardware.

20180728_104657.jpg
20180728_141804.jpg




The undertray will be fastened to the bracing using bolts into threaded holes. The aluminum channel will be held to the under tray with stainless rivets. The top tray will be held to the aluminum channel with stainless screws. Basically, everything will be removable for replacement or access if needed.

Also will be replacing the insulation between the muffler and the engine compartment.
 
Project Mutant: Got a bit further on the rear trunk.

The framework that will rest between the frame rails in the rear, that will replace the floor structure from Fiat is completed, welded, and ready to bolt into place with bolts through the frame rails. Even has a nice coating of black high heat grill paint! This photo shows where the frame will eventually end up, but will be aligned with the bottom of the frame rails.

20180729_190138.jpg


The under-tray that will sit directly on top of that frame is also completed, and will bolt to the frame using stainless steel bolts. The aluminum channels are to support the top tray 'cover' so I can still use the trunk. The bottom tray will be filled with ceramic wool insulating material, to help reduce heat intrusion from the muffler. These photos show the new frame (with uber ugly welding, the top looks much better!). And shows the inside of the bottom tray, with the 4 'C' channels that are riveted to the tray.

20180729_203846.jpg
20180729_203900.jpg


Barring any difficulties, I should have the top tray completed before end of week, the ceramic wool will be here tomorrow, and I should be ready to mount everything by Saturday. Then, will finish cleaning and stripping the rear trunk, and do a coat of satin black to finish.
 
Project Mutant: I love the smell of progress in the evening!

Got the rear floor replacement frame in and bolted through the frame rails. Got the floorboard tray in place and bolted to the frame. Got one section of ceramic wool insulation in place.

Broke several drill bits. Impatience is NOT a virtue!

20180730_193831.jpg
20180730_193837.jpg
20180730_202501.jpg
20180730_202510.jpg
20180730_202608.jpg


Enough for tonight! Tomorrow more ceramic wool and build the top tray!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 81x
Back
Top