Project Overkill: Chassis

[lookforjoe]

Nice work on the box! I'm curious about the 4 way junction that looks like a chopped-down section of a master cylinder. What's the contact on it for? The 4-way on mine is just a larger version of the 2-way used for the left brake line

 

[ng_randolph]

Nice work on the box! I'm curious about the 4 way junction that looks like a chopped-down section of a master cylinder. What's the contact on it for? The 4-way on mine is just a larger version of the 2-way used for the left brake line

Early cars had a differential pressure switch to sense if either the front or rear brake circuit has lost pressure. This fault would turn on the brake warning light.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

3. my depth of cut for the slot must've been a bit deeper than prescribed. I can make a larger retainer (yellow thing) or use a neoprene ring. Idea for me is not only to keep the plastic bushing from sliding out but also to keep it from rotating in the pedal box housing. I think that's what ends up chewing the outside of it up.

Great work on the whole pedal box project.

Regarding that little "key" retainer on the end of the pivot bushing (yellow bit). I agree, one of its primary functions is to keep the bushing from rotating, which it really wants to do - especially as the metal pivot rod accumulates corrosion/rust inside the bush. The leverage of the pedal will force the bushing to rotate when it gets sticky on the pivot rod, chewing up the slot for that key. When that happens both pedals move together every time either one is moved. For that reason I'd suggest following your first thought and make a new larger key rather than the O-ring fix. The O-ring will not last long for that purpose, even if the bushing doesn't stick to the pivot. When I redid mine I actually cut a large "L" shelf into the end of the bush rather than the narrow slot, and replaced the thin key with a fat square tab. That gives the retainer a lot more surface to secure the bush. Another issue is the stock key can move around too much on the pedal box frame with just one small bolt locating it. Again, there is a lot of force on it due to the leverage of the pedal. So I welded that square tab in place rather than bolt it on. Also consider looking at the possibility of adding a zerk fitting to allow lubricating the bushing, that will assure a very smooth operation of the pedals.