Project Snorkel

carl

carl

True Classic
So it's time to figure out how to mount the FAZA snorkel on my spare engine cover.
IMG_1189[1].JPG



You cannot open the engine cover with the snorkel on so there are three options:
1. Attach the snorkel permanently to the cover and have quick disconnects for the cover to the car.
2. Hingedly attach the snorkel to the engine cover.....too cumbersome
3. Quick disconnects for the scoop on the engine cover.

I immediately tossed out option 2. I spent months going back and forth on option 1 and 3. Finally decided to make the snorkel a quick disconnect on the engine cover. If I need to open the hood...and this happens a lot on project cars...I just undo whatever fasteners I use, remove the scoop and open the engine cover. There are a million ways to do this and 1/4 turn type fasteners seem to be the logical way to go although I considered many other options including having four studs sticking up from the cover and using wing nuts to secure it in place.

I realized the 1/4 fasteners that hold the later style fuse box in place would work and I had a pair (you can see my request for two more in parts wanted).

I made an opening in the engine cover for the open area under the snorkel.
IMG_1190[1].JPG

I had already removed the rain tray but might reinstall the two end pieces that are not under the snorkel.
Measured where the rear most attachment holes would go and pop riveted in the spring.
IMG_1191[1].JPG


then made a matching hole in the snorkel base and popped in the 1/4 turn fastener.
IMG_1193[1].JPG

I sourced a rubber washer that goes under the glass layer. It takes up any slack and retains the fastener on the snorkel base when the snorkel is removed from the engine lid. I plan to use four fasteners, one at each corner but need to source two more spring clips which I'll order from MWB tomorrow.

This is what retired guys do when their project car is mechanically done and they start to get bored.
 
Nice project. I love snorkels. I'm still considering various options to add one of some sort to one of my cars.

Regarding those fasteners. Make sure they are strong enough to hold the force of the air pushing the whole snorkel backward/upward as you drive. That could be a lot of force wanting to tilt it back and lifting the front of it. I'd really hate to see it get ripped off on the road, only to be run over by the car behind you. :(
 
I too wonder about what forces will be on the snorkel fasteners. I bought some steel washers that I may put between the head of the male fastener and the fiberglass base. By the way, similar fasteners are used all the time to hold body panels on race cars so I think I'm OK as far as lift or whatever forces are on it.
 
carl said:
I too wonder about what forces will be on the snorkel fasteners. I bought some steel washers that I may put between the head of the male fastener and the fiberglass base. By the way, similar fasteners are used all the time to hold body panels on race cars so I think I'm OK as far as lift or whatever forces are on it.
Click to expand...
If you or anyone has the ability to "buck" rivets, I can acquire 1/4 turn and/or floating nut-certs from work. Makes for a much clearer than install. I'll try to post some pics.
 
I thought about converting to a 1300 engine cover (I had asked here awhile back on what was involved) and decided it was too much work. Besides, this way I can swap back and forth from both engine covers. I just have to trim the forward mounting flange and it will fit. This is not a show or custom car and I prefer the race car look where mechanical fasteners are used rather than smoothed over, prefect looking joints.
 
Eastep said:
I can acquire 1/4 turn and/or floating nut-certs from work.
Click to expand...
I'm very curious about both of those fasteners. How do the quarter turn one's work, is there a matching other half that works with it? Also for the nut-certs you mentioned "floating", so they are not just regular nut-certs? Thanks.
 
carl said:
So it's time to figure out how to mount the FAZA snorkel on my spare engine cover.
View attachment 26259


You cannot open the engine cover with the snorkel on so there are three options:
1. Attach the snorkel permanently to the cover and have quick disconnects for the cover to the car.
2. Hingedly attach the snorkel to the engine cover.....too cumbersome
3. Quick disconnects for the scoop on the engine cover.
Click to expand...

4. (stupid idea) Make the engine lid itself a quick release and permanently mount the snorkel. This way you can remove the engine cover to work on the engine easier and put the other lid on very quickly when you want.
 
Not a stupid idea, that's what option 1. is.
Eastep, what connects to the dome shaped pieces? Are they threaded internally like rivnuts?
 
carl said:
I too wonder about what forces will be on the snorkel fasteners. I bought some steel washers that I may put between the head of the male fastener and the fiberglass base. By the way, similar fasteners are used all the time to hold body panels on race cars so I think I'm OK as far as lift or whatever forces are on it.
Click to expand...
I think Al Cosentino wrote in his book the snorkel could be mounted just using slides on both side, moving the snorkel forward in them. No lock. In that option I would have used at least one quick release fastener, but this is to say there is not much force pushing on the snorkel, according to Al.
 
Daniel Forest said:
I think Al Cosentino wrote in his book the snorkel could be mounted just using slides on both side, moving the snorkel forward in them. No lock. In that option I would have used at least one quick release fastener, but this is to say there is not much force pushing on the snorkel, according to Al.
Click to expand...
Interesting point. maybe the force against it is what keeps it in. the quick logic would say it has force pushing towards the rear of the car, but I dont think enough if it is going straight back to allow it to blow off. Using where it is slid in as a pivot point, it might be pushing with e rotation with the top of the snorkel rotating back/downward. this friction would hold it in place in the sliders. think of ti as trying to slide your seat back form the head rest. (with the seat unlocked) Not likely. but you push the seat, or near the bottom of the seat, it does slide. ok, most X's the seat never slides easy anyway, but I think you get the point. but I agree, I would have put some sort of lock/pin on it just in case.

Odie
 
I see it as Odie described, sort of lifting at the front and pushing down/back at the rear. Kind of a tilting or rotating movement. Regardless, for street use I'd want it to be very secure. Not only to keep it from blowing off, but also to prevent theft.
 
I bought this tool when I was working on my paint prep last year. It is intended to makes the dimples needed for quarter turn fasteners. It is a simple design and it does make dimples. I don't recall where I found it, but I will see if I can find my receipt. The business card is just there for scale. I could loan it out, but if I locate my receipt we may find it is cheaper to order one than ship it twice.
IMG_2004.JPG IMG_2000.JPG IMG_2001.JPG

UPDATE: it came from Amazon. If you search for "DZUS tool" you will find several that range from $23-$37USD approximately.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I'm very curious about both of those fasteners. How do the quarter turn one's work, is there a matching other half that works with it? Also for the nut-certs you mentioned "floating", so they are not just regular nut-certs? Thanks.
Click to expand...
They're similar except that the threaded female portion of the nut cert isn't fixed. It can move around slightly in the housing. This allows for offset angles less then 100% square. Think wobble bolts, but in nutcert form
 
carl said:
Not a stupid idea, that's what option 1. is.
Eastep, what connects to the dome shaped pieces? Are they threaded internally like rivnuts?
Click to expand...
Yes, they are threaded. The dome is the bottom. The other fasteners are glue in type. Basically drill a hole, drop it in and epoxy it. This is the option I will most likely use
 
JimD said:
makes the dimples needed for quarter turn fasteners
Click to expand...
If I'm not mistaken, this is used to make the impression on the outer layer to be fastened. It would be perfect for two metal sheets, to attach one on the other. But the snorkel is fiberglass and will be the top layer, so I don't believe this tool can work in this instance? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Eastep said:
Yes, they are threaded. The dome is the bottom. The other fasteners are glue in type. Basically drill a hole, drop it in and epoxy it. This is the option I will most likely use
Click to expand...
I'm not completely clear, sorry. So this is not a quarter turn fastener, but a version of nut-cert? More like the other one you pictured but the nut floats?
 
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