proper way to put a dent in a stainless steel header...?

Kevin Cozzo

True Classic
ok, so I'm fitting the new dual intake, and having to grind away metal, because they are from 2 different places....I finally got everything to go on without binding, except one nut on one of the shared studs between #3 intake and exhaust...it's the Vicks stainless header, and the pipe deviates just a hair to the left, and a socket will just not fit. If memory serves me correctly, when I first put it on with the stock intake, it gave me problems, but I could kinda "shift" the header to where the pipe wasnt so close to the nut, and I believe I took a cheapie 12mm socket, and ground it down (have no idea where it is now of course) I am using 12 mm reduced nuts that fit on 8mm studs, but still can't get a ***** socket in there...
So the question is- what's the best way to put a dent in the stainless header...I don't really want to, but I'm thinking it's my only solution...so do I need to heat it up? will it crack if I don't?
 

Attachments

  • nut.jpg
    nut.jpg
    140.9 KB · Views: 261
Well, son of a gun...I found the solution...I thought 12mm head was as small as I could go, but I guess the vw folks have the same issue...found a set of 11mm head copper intake/exhaust nuts that fit a 8mm stud- that was too easy, was really looking forward to f****g up my nice stainless header...of course now I have to buy something else...glad I didn't buy the 1200 dollar pre made dual carb kit, I wouldn't have spent as much money as to make my car cost more than it's worth:confused:
 
Don't "smack" it while on the car. No fun but remove it. Having marked area before removal find a round bar stock or steel pipe about 2" diameter and place it over the area at a 90 degree angle to the pipe centerline. With a ball peen hammer give it a sharp rap, not an over the shoulder clove it in two swing. 32 ounce hammer should be about right. That's how my Uncle with 50 years experience hand building race car bodies did it for me. If at all possible practice on a piece of muffler pipe from Auto Zone. They sell ss tubeing.
 
Nice you found your solution. In my case, I usually resort to open-end metric keys. When you start to modify things, you often have to use creativity... and patience!

Another "creative" solution would have been to reduce the lenght of the straight tab alongside the header, and also to use a shorter stud. There was more clearance closer to the head.

This is also why it required time. "Honey, what did you do this evening". Oh, I removed two bolts on my header. I will do the other ones later this week...
 
and behold, I even found 8x1.25 thread size with a 10 mm head...life is good...hopefully this thread will help someone in the future
 
Nice you found your solution. In my case, I usually resort to open-end metric keys. When you start to modify things, you often have to use creativity... and patience!

Another "creative" solution would have been to reduce the lenght of the straight tab alongside the header, and also to use a shorter stud. There was more clearance closer to the head.

yeah, no more modifying the overly expensive aftermarket parts...didn't want to shorten that, because the manifold is actually the correct thickness on that particular stud
 
all I gotta say is thank god for the internet...on a humorous side note, I'm still trying to figure out why Amazon suggested
"Amber Lynns greatest videos" sigh, guess they can't get everything right...lol
 
I even found 8x1.25 thread size with a 10 mm head
Curious what they are for? Do you have a reference to them?

And damn you, I wondered what a "Amber Lynn" was so I did a Google image search. Disgusting looking! Still don't know what it is. :eek:
 
yeah, there's no way to get a torque value that way, with an open wrench...on these split manifolds, I think it's really important to insure no future problems. Really wanna be able to measure that torque, as I have stripped studs out of the head- no fun...yeah, I'm he-man of the universe sometimes, lol
 
Back
Top