Radiator Roulette

A few thoughts, as "one of those vendors" who sells aluminum X1/9 radiators.

As recently as 2013, no vendor, anywhere, offered new direct fit replacement X1/9 radiators.

IAP was one of the last vendors to offer new, stock-style units by Modine (ending in 2004 or ‘05), and they were nearly $400.

So the Scirocco rad became a go-to X1/9 solution. Cheap, effective, but it hangs too low, requires modified mounts, the hoses route kinda weird. It was good in a pinch, and cost effective, but was like fitting a GM alternator or Ford carb to your X1/9. Sure, they are really cheap because almost 300,000 MkII Sciroccos were produced through 1991, a lot of these plastic-tanked radiators are still floating around.

Enter Bob G. who did a big service to the group in 2013 by rolling up his sleeves and having an all-aluminum exact copy X1/9 radiator designed when others said “it can’t be done”. It was offered here to the group with unbelievable response, pre-selling a few hundred units at a price that was, honestly, just a little over cost.

It was a huge improvement over a stock steel-cored unit in terms of cooling performance, weight, and price. His offering set expectations for all three moving forward, which others worked to copy through various mfgs.

Midwest-Bayless secured the rights to Bob’s design and supplier after the initial run and the units we sold were additional shipments of the exact ones he offered. After a couple years of selling, we started being informed by clients of random leak issues. Usually on the right or left upper areas, where the core meets the tank. Maybe 1 out of a dozen, usually 18-24 months after install.

We pushed back on the manufacturer, but they did not warranty and no changes were offered to be made to the design or construction. The vast majority were OK, but we still saw the random issues, and also experienced them ourselves. Some cars we built / installed were fine. In other builds, we had repeat failures every few months ??!

Based on these extended observations, we came to the following conclusions:

1. The failures seemed to follow a pattern of happening only in stiffly sprung cars, including performance builds with lowering springs, sway bars, short side wall tires, coil overs. Especially so if they had all the above.

2. The radiators were so efficient that even when they did leak and the system would slowly bleed down its head pressure, it still cooled normally. Unlike a stock rad, where losing head pressure will result in a sustained 205 operating temp that can’t be pulled out.

3. In another observation, if aluminum rad was in good working order, and the car had a stuck “open” thermostat that did not modulate properly, the car would barely achieve 135 degrees at freeway speed in the middle summer. i.e. “overcooled!”.

4. We’re still left to ponder the mechanical cause for the problem. We believe that the material thickness was proper for most typical applications, but were failing in use for the X1/9 because the core had too long of a run for its height and thickness. Perhaps exacerbated by the deep amount of heat put it the tank from the upper bung weld. When full of liquid and encountering sharp road shocks in a stiffly sprung car, we believe it was flexing in the middle of core, resulting in problems at the upper core-to-tank solder joints over time.

Earlier this year we commissioned a redesign of the radiator with another, brand-name company. Due the observed “excess cooling capacity” of the original design, we thinned the core a bit (still way more efficient, 2-row core than a stock unit), asked for a more robust tank design, and strapped the center to prevent flex. This manufacturer offers warranty.

We just introduced this unit in the last week. We have test fit two of them, and fitment appears to be correct. Obviously time will tell if this design solves the problem, but the redesign should offer a more robust, truly stock-style unit. The cost has gone up a bit because this manufacturer charges more, and the volume of sales is a fraction of typical makes and models. Cost is still in line with what a stock replacement was 15 years ago for a unit that is even more efficient.

For those who have previously purchased our units, the vast majority will continue to be fine, especially on stock suspension, stock tire cars.

If you have purchased a rad in the last 24 months that has developed an issue, please contact us, and we’ll work to get you a discounted new design unit.

-Matt
Midwest-Bayless Italian Auto
614-784-8870
 
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Hats off to Bob G. for that initial run of rads, and to all of our vendors for undertaking the risk of having several essential items reproduced, and for doing the tireless research on existing FIAT parts to adapt them to our 30+ year-old cars. The aluminum radiators, the stainless expansion tanks, the dual-purpose fuel tanks, the vented front brake kits all come to mind and are appreciated. And all that for a low volume car owned by (in)famously "price sensitive" :D:rolleyes: drivers!!

The failure points on both of my previous aluminum rads was as Matt described, but in my case the car is bone stock in the suspension department.
 
+1

Hats off to Bob G. for that initial run of rads, and to all of our vendors for undertaking the risk of having several essential items reproduced, and for doing the tireless research on existing FIAT parts to adapt them to our 30+ year-old cars. The aluminum radiators, the stainless expansion tanks, the dual-purpose fuel tanks, the vented front brake kits all come to mind and are appreciated. And all that for a low volume car owned by (in)famously "price sensitive" :D:rolleyes: drivers!!

The failure points on both of my previous aluminum rads was as Matt described, but in my case the car is bone stock in the suspension department.

It’s about how hard you drive that thing, or more likely the Philly area road quality :)
 
I just received the new improved aluminium radiator from MWB today.
I will report the installation soon.

First observation, the shipping package was perfect.
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I just received the new improved aluminium radiator from MWB today.
Visually that appears different than the one that came on one of my X's (purchased by a prior owner). And at least I recognize the brand name on the box. As I stated previously, the quality of the components used to make mine seem to be the root of all the problems. Judging from the receipts that came with the car, I believe mine came from a different vendor. So hopefully the one Yves posted isn't the same as the problematic one I have and will offer good service. ;)
 
Mine was dropped off by FedEx today, will have a look tonite. Installation over the weekend most likely.

One quibble with previous aluminum versions was that the welding technique made the upper right nipple a touch too short (could have used say another 3/4"), making positioning of the hose clamp very finicky to ensure that the entire clamp was constricting the hose at a point on the nipple above the bead. Hopefully this is not an issue on the new version.
 
Enter Bob G. who did a big service to the group in 2013 by rolling up his sleeves and having an all-aluminum exact copy X1/9 radiator designed when others said “it can’t be done”. It was offered here to the group with unbelievable response, pre-selling a few hundred units at a price that was, honestly, just a little over cost.

It was a huge improvement over a stock steel-cored unit in terms of cooling performance, weight, and price. His offering set expectations for all three moving forward, which others worked to copy through various mfgs.

Thanks Matt,

and let me just qualify my previous comment about potential differences in the quality of the manufacturing process: this was only in relation to the perception that aluminium radiators are somehow less reliable than original units and wasn't a reflection on any specific units being sold. I personally have one of the original run of the Bob G units and haven't had any issues whatsoever (fingers crossed). What is evident is the fact that much more money can be invested in R&D, testing, etc. for factory parts due to the volumes involved. When aftermarket replacements are made for old cars in low volumes, it would be unreasonable to expect parity. Actually, as Matt mentions, we should be thankful that such options even exist (and now even from various sources).

I'll be interested to hear how the redesigned radiators hold up and the experiences with aluminium radiators from other manufacturers such as Henk who has them made in the Netherlands. But a big thanks to all of our suppliers who continue to invest in a relatively low-volume market.

Cheers,
Dom.
 
New MWB rad installation report:
1. Shipped quickly via FedEx, arrived in excellent condition
2. Well packed, foam inserts seem purpose built for this rad.
3. Weight seems comparable to previous aluminum rads (but I did not weigh on a scale)
4. Construction quality seems superior to previous aluminum rads: welds look better, no weld slag inside the tanks, no need to shave temp sending switch boss to compensate for weld slag preventing a good seal, core seems to have more tightly spaced fins and tubes
5. Design execution superior to previous rads: the "shell" seems sturdier, nice mid-brace, extra-long hose nipples solve the previous issue where there was scant room for a hose clamp to be position behind the bead on the nipple, especially on the inlet nipple; excellent execution of condenser and fan mounting studs: studs are steel vs aluminum, just long enough vs way too long on other rads, studs are secured to rad shell by speed nuts vs welded in place, which gives you the wiggle room to match the studs to your fan mounting ears.
6****. New rad holds a bit less coolant than previous aluminum rads....allowing for some minor coolant spillage, upon refilling the system with the same coolant that came out, my expansion tank level before vs after went up about 4" before the first burp...so would that be about a quart?
7. Cooling effectiveness is yet to be evaluated, as I discovered than one of my cooling fans was not working (jumping the fan switch pigtail activates it so most likely a bad switch, on order). The other fan is run by an aftermarket relay and senses temp with a capsule thermister, and now that its position has changed slightly in the rad compared to the previous rad, I will have to wait until the replacement fan switch arrives until I can adjust the activation temp dial to come on as closely as possible to the OEM fan switch. And of course installation of the fan switch will require a partial drain and refill and more burp sessions.


****EDIT 8/5/19: Upon further review, the difference in the amount of coolant the new MWB rads hold compared to previous aluminum rads is probably a lot less than I initially thought. After a couple more burp sessions, the coolant tank level dropped to a level that was comparable to the removed aluminum rad. So taking into account a little spillage during R&R, the difference is probably less than 16 oz, if that. Not much considering the total capacity of an X cooling system is a hair under 4 gallons.
 
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I had the same exact problem with my alloy radiator and also ordered the new one from Matt... I haven't installed it yet, but I look forward to not smelling coolant after every drive... I bought a CSF radiator cap a while ago and was super impressed by the build quality...
 
studs are steel vs aluminum, just long enough vs way too long on other rads, studs are secured to rad shell by speed nuts vs welded in place
That is another issue on mine, couple of studs broke off.


The other fan is run by an aftermarket relay and senses temp with a capsule thermister, and now that its position has changed slightly in the rad compared to the previous rad, I will have to wait until the replacement fan switch arrives until I can adjust the activation temp dial to come on as closely as possible to the OEM fan switch.
I'm curious Dan. I might have misunderstood - but if you want both fans to come on at the same (stock) temp, then why not use the stock temp sensor to trigger both fans together? Eliminate the aftermarket sensor and controller completely. If there is concern about amperage draw through the original wire harness/relay/fuse, then relays could be added (probably a good idea anyway in my opinion).
 
The appeal of the aftermarket controller was that in addition to having an adjustable trigger point, it was already set up to accept a manual on-off switch, which I wired up to a spare console switch panel switch of the three-dot variety.

On very late cars, the fan motor(s) are natively relayed. One relay is for the standard pass side fan controlled by the in-rad temp switch. The other relay is for the second fan that gets added with A/C. There is a difference in the wiring between early '80s cars and later '80s cars that changes the trigger conditions for fan operation. IIRC (it's been a few years since I had to think about this), on the late '80s cars, the operation logic was such that with A/C off, only the pass side fan would activate by the in-rad temp switch, but both fans would be activated when the A/C system need the condenser cooled off. This complicated the wiring and I had a hard time figuring out how to wire it to use the extant A/C condenser fan relay socket. So I went with the aftermarket unit (Hayden fan controller) and separate relays and wiring.
 
This weekend I have replaced my old 7 years aluminium radiator by the new MWB improved aluminium radiator.
The physical installation was easy, the inlet and outlet have the correct size, angle and length. I installed two aftermarket Fan with the Vick Auto fan brackets adapter.

There is pictures of my old aluminium radiator and the new from MWB, observe pictures and you will see all the differences between both!.

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Yves, your old radiator in the photos has tabs welded to the sides; did it come this way, or did you add the tabs? Where these tabs used instead of the OEM bottom bracket? Or perhaps in addition to the bottom bracket? I also notice that the old radiator has no studs for mounting fans, but presumably uses screws all the way through the radiator. Where did this radiator come from?
 
Awaiting final report on radiator effectiveness with great anticipation.
 
Yves, your old radiator in the photos has tabs welded to the sides; did it come this way, or did you add the tabs? Where these tabs used instead of the OEM bottom bracket? Or perhaps in addition to the bottom bracket? I also notice that the old radiator has no studs for mounting fans, but presumably uses screws all the way through the radiator. Where did this radiator come from?

Yes they come like this with tabs welded to the sides, no studs for mounting the fans, no original thermo switch, bleeder location not original also the bleeder, size of outlets not the original size (Smaller) etc...
For what I know it is the first version of aluminium radiator from Vick Auto 8 years ago. At that moment I paid a lot of money for that radiator.
… With time things change… for better things!
 
Vick's started out offering what they called a "VAS Aluminum Performance radiator Kit" aftermarket aluminum rad, before Bob Grasch put together his rad project. It was priced a lot higher (sold for around $525) than the rad that Bob Grasch had made overseas, but that probably reflects the nature of the beast, made in Texas by hand in small batches of probably 2-3 at a time as orders came in. You can see that it is thicker than most of the aftermarket aluminum rads offered, which mimic the OEM unit. I think the guys at Vick's were looking to produce a premium product that had superior cooling capability. Later Vick's also "adopted" an aluminum OEM-copy rad that they sold alongside of the Performance rads, selling the copy rad at a comparable price to other OEM copies and still selling the Performance rad as a premium alternative. I think they have discontinued the Performance rad.
 
I also recall that VAS offered two aluminum rad choices at one time, as Dan says. One was described as more of a performance item (very expensive) and the other a lower price unit, also as stated. I believe the one I have (came on a car I bought) is the second of those two. And it does not look like Yves' old unit. So I agree with Dan, that was likely the "performance" model Yves had.
 
Well, I find out tomorrow, installing the current Texas version and double 10" fans. Just flushed out a ton of rust for the second time and a 5 or 6 tablespoonsfuls of white powdery scale flakes with just water, Evaporust flush in there for the night. Car has only 28000 miles, but was run on hard tapwater and varying amounts of antifreeze for last 10 years and only about 1500 miles in those 10 years. New unit gets only distilled water and coolant after a few more flushes.
It looks nice coming out of the box, packaging not even close to the photos above, but arrived unharmed.


Apples and oranges, but I have used an aftermarket aluminum radiator in a few Datsun Roadsters over the years,a bunch of other people use them and they work well. Very high vibration cars, no rubber in the suspension (from the factory!) very stiff springs and radiator bolted to car with no rubber insulators but none have leaked as far as I've heard. They are much smaller vertical flow units, so might be less stressed where core welds to tanks. Mine was the prototype made by Champion, then the knockoffs started appearing.
 
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