Raising seat height . . .
- Thread starter Tim North
- Start date
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- box interior box seats
Pete Whitstone
True Classic
I wonder if taking the seat bottom to an upholsterer, having them unskin it, and add new foam and reskin might accomplish the same thing. I can't help but think that the foam in the seat has sagged/degraded/turned to dust to some extent in the past 30 years.
Pete
Pete
The seat to floor connection is part of the occupant safety equation. The ideas of stacking washers just at the hole locations or using wood sound sketchy. Maybe start with 1 inch square tube cut to the rails length and drilled for the bolts to pass thru.
I haven't looked at it, but maybe a longer shoulder level retainer can be made or purchased that would lower the belt for you wife.
I haven't looked at it, but maybe a longer shoulder level retainer can be made or purchased that would lower the belt for you wife.
DanielForest
True Classic
Following Dr.Jeff footsteps (something I usually try to avoid!) maybe a trade?
No, not the car.
No, not the car.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Bolstering the cushion with new/dense cushion makes the most (safest) sense here.
Moving the seat belt anchor on the "B" pillar with any kind of extension would be pretty dangerous, in the event the belt actually needed to do it's job. It's not like many new vehicles that have a sliding / adjustable height setting in the pillar, adding a bracket that drops the pivot could serioulsy injure the passanger.
Raising the entire seat to the extent necessary is also a sketchy idea. I would say 1" square tubing is still too narrow to safely carry/spread the load in the event a collision occurred.
Moving the seat belt anchor on the "B" pillar with any kind of extension would be pretty dangerous, in the event the belt actually needed to do it's job. It's not like many new vehicles that have a sliding / adjustable height setting in the pillar, adding a bracket that drops the pivot could serioulsy injure the passanger.
Raising the entire seat to the extent necessary is also a sketchy idea. I would say 1" square tubing is still too narrow to safely carry/spread the load in the event a collision occurred.
dragonsgate
True Classic
My mom was five foot nothing and my dad liked big Buick's so she sat on a cushion to drive.
When I was a kid in the 50's we knew a man that was 4" 6" tall. He drove a big dump
truck with the aid of a raised seat and extensions on the peddles. That was before auto transmissions.
When I was a kid in the 50's we knew a man that was 4" 6" tall. He drove a big dump
truck with the aid of a raised seat and extensions on the peddles. That was before auto transmissions.
kmead
Old enough to know better
I like Carl’s solution best on a late X which has bolted down tracks.
Offsetting the holes in the tube will make it easier to do the bolting and unbolting. A larger through hole in the top surface for the Allen headed cap screws to go down through, with a clearance hole below for the body of the bolt to install into the floor pan and a tapped hole forward or back of the main hole. Thus suggests that you will use thick wall tubing to tap into or think about using rivnut/nutserts (this is what I would do as getting thick wall tube may be difficult and you want more than three threads of bolt engagement)
This way the tracks are fully supported by the tube and won’t collapse under load.
Another alternative is to have effectively the same arrangement top and bottom of the tube and put weld nuts from underneath for the actual track bolts to thread into.
I think the rivnuts will be effective as the seat, although stressed in a crash, is not taking the seat belt load.
Offsetting the holes in the tube will make it easier to do the bolting and unbolting. A larger through hole in the top surface for the Allen headed cap screws to go down through, with a clearance hole below for the body of the bolt to install into the floor pan and a tapped hole forward or back of the main hole. Thus suggests that you will use thick wall tubing to tap into or think about using rivnut/nutserts (this is what I would do as getting thick wall tube may be difficult and you want more than three threads of bolt engagement)
This way the tracks are fully supported by the tube and won’t collapse under load.
Another alternative is to have effectively the same arrangement top and bottom of the tube and put weld nuts from underneath for the actual track bolts to thread into.
I think the rivnuts will be effective as the seat, although stressed in a crash, is not taking the seat belt load.
darwoodious
Darin Nelson
Early model lap-belt instead of the shoulder belt?
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
a lot of newer cars have an adjustable track. I wonder if that could be adapted to work.
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-BHM706
kmead
Old enough to know better
That first thing is a really bad idea, in a crash rather than having the upper torso getting loaded, the upper body would rotate out from under the belt. This would make the lower part of the belt the primary restraint which we know causes spinal injuries and ruptured spleens as well as other internal injuries. Not to mention the facial injuries resulting from your upper body being effectively unrestrained and impacting on other surfaces of the interior.
Raising the seat offers a fairly normal relationship of the user to the belt for a shorter user (or those with short a torso).
Yes, one could look at adapting one of the systems from another car. Hopefully there is another structural area below the existing mount. I have seen these non integral tracks bend out under load, which is fine if it was something engineered into the restraint system as part of the load reduction approach, not so good when it just occurs without intent which is what a part you or I would create. I wouldn’t try it myself on a car that doesn’t offer the feature.
The other part you linked to is reasonable, ensuring the threaded part of the mount is on the back of the plate (which is what it looks like the design is intended to do) so the threaded portion doesn’t just rip off the plate under load. The negative of it is the rotating nature of the joint which the collars shown will enable and the lack of a second mounting feature (which given this is a simple retrofit wouldn’t be expected).
Raising the seat offers a fairly normal relationship of the user to the belt for a shorter user (or those with short a torso).
Yes, one could look at adapting one of the systems from another car. Hopefully there is another structural area below the existing mount. I have seen these non integral tracks bend out under load, which is fine if it was something engineered into the restraint system as part of the load reduction approach, not so good when it just occurs without intent which is what a part you or I would create. I wouldn’t try it myself on a car that doesn’t offer the feature.
The other part you linked to is reasonable, ensuring the threaded part of the mount is on the back of the plate (which is what it looks like the design is intended to do) so the threaded portion doesn’t just rip off the plate under load. The negative of it is the rotating nature of the joint which the collars shown will enable and the lack of a second mounting feature (which given this is a simple retrofit wouldn’t be expected).