Rear Shock Clunk

AKimball92

AKimball92

True Classic
I drove my X around a lot yesterday with the fantastic weather we are having here in the midwest. The rear drivers side shock makes a nice clunking noise every time I hit a bump on that side or both sides. I can also recreate the noise by pressing down on the corner manually.

I first thought it was axle play but there is very little pay left to right in the axle, about 1-2mm worth I think. Pressing down on the corner to recreate the noise I can also feel the slight clunk in shock by feeling the top nut .

I know I need a new lower engine mount but do not think the noise is coming from that. It's clearly in the wheel end. With this order or update, I will be getting a new mount.

How can you identify sealed vs rebuildable shocks? Early vs late? Can this be done with the car assembled? I want to know for certain before making any sort of order. My car is a very late 78 with unknown history but I believe these to be original. I simply haven't been around any to see A to B comparison.

Are there any good deals on adjustable struts? I have read the following posts:

I dont have the ability to the machining required here:
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/bilstein-shock-installation.13174/

https://xwebforums.com/forum/index....-man-needs-to-learn-about-struts.31818/page-2

The car is intended for street use with hopes of track time in the future. While would like to upgrade the system for best performance, I personally don't know what I want by simply driving the local city streets so far.
 
It is highly unlikely you have rebuildable struts on that car. By that time the struts were complete assemblies that were not rebuildable.

You have the choice of KYBs, other oil filled struts from the EU (several varieties), Koni’s from MWB In two varieties and the Vick Auto units which come in a three varieties.

As another MI person I would be hard pressed to go for a full race approach, the roads here are just too crappy for high spring rates and stiff shocks, but that is me. I appreciate the compliance the car offers, I have Koni’s (old ones) set to med soft in front and have yet to install the rears which are still OE struts.

What you start out with doesn’t have to be what you end up with so try something and then change it if it doesn’t meet your desires.
 
Noise. Check for things like the top mount worn out, the top nut loose, the three upper mount retainer bolts loose, the lower engine mount sagging enough to allow the axle/CV to rub the chassis, if you have replaceable struts the cartridge nut loose.

Can you tell if your struts are rebuildable. Depending on the existence of dust boots, bump stops, etc, you might be able to take a wheel off and see the top of the strut body tube - where the main shaft goes through. If you cannot see the tops of the strut body then you have to remove them and take the spring off to see it. If they are rebuildable there will be some sort of removable retainer nut. It can be internal or external, hex or two flats, or have little holes for a special tool. Typically they look something like these (random examples found online):
ba52fd6476bf54a2c.jpg
dc58b0e09d.jpg


If they are not rebuildable then you will see the top of the strut body is welded on. I did not find a good example, but it will look similar to the top of a normal shock absorber:
Skyjacker_Hydro_Shock_Front_TJ_1.jpg


As Karl said, unfortunately there are not many good options for replacement struts for the X (unless you spend a LOT of money for something special). If your struts are the rebuildable type, then you might be able to convert them to an adjustable spring height. See the links below for info on it. The problem of finding good inserts to use with them will come down to cost. But be aware, not all of the rebuildable X struts are the same. They differ in diameter and design, so inserts that might be made to fit one may not work in another.

Links to custom X strut threads:

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Its looking like I will be going with the cheapo KYB 233004 Excel-G Gas Strut, thanks Doc Jeff! Do these need any sort of conversion from early to late model components?

Amazon has one for cheap but only one. Also its deceiving that its an additional $12 shipping which isn't what I am used to seeing out of Amazon.

I still have to make an order for a new engine mount. I really don;t think its the mount causing this clunk as I can certainly hear it coming out of the wheel end while leaning over the rear of the car and crawling underneath.
 
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You might need the rear spring perches and cones from a 79+ X. I think you have a 78 right?
 
As Jim says, the rear struts are different at the spring perch between early and late X's. But that isn't difficult to accommodate. I'm pretty sure all of the current KYB's are for the later X's. I suppose your "very late '78" might be either the early or late style depending on exactly when it was built. I seem to recall a old thread that showed exactly what the differences are between the two types. The fronts are the same for all years.

Double check your top mounts also.

I've noticed Amazon has been overwhelmed with excess orders since the 'stay at home' thing. And their shipping is very backed up. So they may be adding additional shipping charges to compensate?
 
New shocks are replaced on all four corners. It does feel much better. However the clunking didn't fully go away. I think I know the source of the clunk being the top nut loose. How do you torque these? i thought I have seen a few posts around here but the searching didn't reveal anything useful. I tried a large pipe wrench and can get a tooth or two to catch. It's a real struggle to hold this steady and achieve the 50.6 ft.lb.

I am assuming there is a tool for this and probably a few homemade ones? What do all yours look like?
 
You can create a tool that engages the two slots in the cad plated ring and put a hole in the center to insert the socket. Some shocks either have a flat near the top or an Allen hex inset into the top of the piston rod of the strut. The early opening in the strut tower makes this easier, on a later body with the raised edge on the body opening the tool is a bit more complex to make.

A clamping adjustable wrench can be used to grasp the flat on the strut rod with a offset box end wrench to tighten the nut. Inconvenient and tedious.

As Hussein pointed out, an impact gun will do the job easily. I bought an electric Porter Cable unit which although a bit unwieldy has been useful many times (it was on sale at Menards). An air gun is faster, much more compact and as a result more useful in more situations.
 
lookforjoe said:
Impact gun.
Click to expand...
I'll whip out the impact gun tonight. I just avoided it with the relatively low torque. i have not used the impact enough to know what i am actually torquing the bolts to. I have a plug in unit and a air one. Unfortunately I went all out on the air compressor, its large enough for painting and sand blasting, so I avoid using it on minor items like this.

I believe the impact and the channel lock pliers should be enough to get it gutentight.
 
kmead said:
You can create a tool that engages the two slots in the cad plated ring and put a hole in the center to insert the socket. Some shocks either have a flat near the top or an Allen hex inset into the top of the piston rod of the strut. The early opening in the strut tower makes this easier, on a later body with the raised edge on the body opening the tool is a bit more complex to make.

A clamping adjustable wrench can be used to grasp the flat on the strut rod with a offset box end wrench to tighten the nut. Inconvenient and tedious.

As Hussein pointed out, an impact gun will do the job easily. I bought an electric Porter Cable unit which although a bit unwieldy has been useful many times (it was on sale at Menards). An air gun is faster, much more compact and as a result more useful in more situations.
Click to expand...
I am picturing sacrificing some channel locks and carving away at the plier teeth with a dremmel until it fits snugly into the two key slots.
 
The impact gun is to quickly spin the fastener up so the shaft doesn’t spin, not so much for the torque, when it gets to the bottom and starts to do impact torquing its time to let off on the trigger. Not much torque is needed...
 
Yeah - be careful - if you overdo it, the strut plate spinning could easily mess up your hand once the nut seats. Either hold the strut plate around the periphery with large channel-locks or secure in vise if need be. I usually just hold it in my (leather-gloved) hand, easier to gauge when to let go of the impact, but I've also done it enough times this way to know the release point for my specific gun/setting
 
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