Rebuild your Bosch ICM...

I tried to angle it to avoid trimming

But unfortunately it won't fit without trimming the tabs.
Actually, mounting it toward the side helps a little with heat sinking the device.
The center of the cover (casting) has an imprint which makes for less surface contact.

Thanks for asking.
 
Bob, Where does the power come from to the ICM?

From the Photo you have up it looks like a pink wire is connected to a white wire with a green sleeve. This white wire then goes into the ICM. Is this correct?
 
The power comes in from the PINK side

and you are correct when you see that the mating wire is white with a heavy green sleeve.
This wire plugs into the PINK wire and runs directly to the Bosch ICM to power it.
The pink wire is your ignition power feed wire.
 
Unfortunately Tony,

Photos on X-Web disappear without notice.
In an effort to circumvent this highly unusual phenomenon, I've been making it a habit to post a download of the
complete article that you can have and to hold forever, without fear of loss in detail. This also gives me the
opportunity to tell you to re-read the original article so that you will know this already. :devil:

Black-Tooth said:
Which wire goes where?
Am I missing something here or am I getting too old to remember correctly?
Click to expand...
 
Neat job. One thing though. Everything I have read says the HEI brain should have some kind of heat sink. A lot of the conversions I have seen are in the open on a fender or firewall. It seems that enclosing it in a box would contain heat. The Magneti Marelli set up I had on my Strada engine was in the open on a fined aluminum heat sink. The one on my 350 is in the distributor though. I converted my son's slant six in a 1986 Dodge van over to HEI and mounted it high and dry on the firewall with an aluminum finned heat sink. We used a hotter coil and bumped the plug gap up to .045. It has a weber two barrel and my son has driven across the US a with it couple of times. He has gotten 19 mpg @ 65mph.
 
Re: Everything I have read says the HEI brain should have some kind of heat sink ...

The Bosch box makes a great heat sink.
 
In the process of doing this project. Can't wait to try it. Excellent description and pictures.
So may I ask, are you an Electrical genius or what?

Roy E

(Stoney)
 
Pete Whitstone said:
Bob's probably too modest to answer that, so I'll do it for him. "Yes".

Pete
Click to expand...

Indeed


Hey Bob could you post up a PDF of the original files with images as some of them seem to be dropping out into the ether. Thanks!
 
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Karl, see the PDF reference I posted at the bottom of my original post...
It will download the whole document for ya. I've been doing this for the reasons we've all come to notice.
Thanks for the compliments all, but remember these 2 things:
1. Necessity is the mother of invention.
2. If someone else can do it, you can too if you're willing to learn.
 
Doh! :(

Thanks, you had mentioned it and I clicked on the wrong link, reading comprehension and me today has not been particularly good.
 
I would if I had the time, but time itself is a commodity for me these days. I've been on the run for a while and I'm trying to slow things down long enough to take a deep breath. (!)
Our X-Webs own Jeff Nolta (not sure I spelled that right) can help you with a unit just like the one I wrote about. He's taken on rebuilding these for X-heads at a very reasonable rate. (I think $75)
Contact Jeff N for more detail on that. Maybe someday I'll auction -off my prototype. :) But thanks for asking!.
 
Is there anyway the pictures can be re-uploaded to this thread? I recently found an electronic ignition system from a Yugo and would like to make the switch this winter if possible. I also need to clean up the dizzy as well but that can be a different thread. I am still looking.

Edit: I found what I was looking for:
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/2/2e/WrokshopManual_39.pdf

I believe I have the whole system. My ICM doesnt look like the cube posted in MWB:
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/FIA...module-bosch-fiat-bertone-x19-1979-88-u8.aspx

Instead its a little Bosch block 0-227-100-123 MTR-01.
 
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The Yugo has the improved smaller version of the Bosch control module so you will need that as the Original
fiat x1/9 bosch electronic ignition different wire setup and this ICM module upgrade is not applicable to the Yugo
 
maz124s said:
The Yugo has the improved smaller version of the Bosch control module so you will need that as the Original
fiat x1/9 bosch electronic ignition different wire setup and this ICM module upgrade is not applicable to the Yugo
Click to expand...

Thanks! I haven't tried it out yet so it might and probably works fine. The dizzy needs a little bit of work though. The "Rotor" in the first link I posted (second exploded diagram is stuck and I don't think any of the components above it are present except for the cap.
 
AKimball92 said:
The "Rotor" in the first link I posted (second exploded diagram is stuck and I don't think any of the components above it are present except for the cap.
Click to expand...
By rotor I assume your are referring to the metal trigger (spider) wheel inside and not the bakelite spark distribution rotor at the top? The Fiat manuals tend to use the terms interchangeably causing some confusion.

As I'm sure you know there is a locking ring that holds the trigger wheel onto the main shaft. And a small pin keeps it in position on the shaft. Both of those can be difficult to remove, causing the trigger to be stuck. Plus the trigger is a very tight fit and can corrode in place. Furthermore it is easy to damage the rather delicate trigger trying to pull it off. But it does slide up off the shaft once you free it. A puller may be needed. Some heat and penetrant would also be good.

However is it even necessary to remove it? Do you need to replace any defective components below it (e.g. pick up coil), rebuild the shaft bushings, or other such work? If it comes down to it, there was a fairly recent post where someone sent their dizzy to a shop in Calif to be recurved. The shop completely rebuilt the entire dizzy and curved it on the dyno for a really low price (it was "less than $80"):
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/curving-distributor.37086/#post-327121
I'm sure the shop can supply the missing parts as well.
His dizzy was a cam mounted type so the price may differ. But it seems crazy to do it yourself for that price.

By the way, is the first link you posted from the regular workshop manual or the electrical diagnosis manual? Thanks
 
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AKimball92 said:
Is there anyway the pictures can be re-uploaded to this thread? I recently found an electronic ignition system from a Yugo and would like to make the switch this winter if possible. I also need to clean up the dizzy as well but that can be a different thread. I am still looking.

Edit: I found what I was looking for:
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/images/2/2e/WrokshopManual_39.pdf

I believe I have the whole system. My ICM doesnt look like the cube posted in MWB:
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/FIA...module-bosch-fiat-bertone-x19-1979-88-u8.aspx

Instead its a little Bosch block 0-227-100-123 MTR-01.
Click to expand...

Can you take a pic of the dist. guts? The power stage you linked is typically used with a Hall switch (not a coil-winding), Vs. the old-style trigger wheel/coil winding setup of the X1/9 (putting aside discussions of whether the old style setup on the X1/9 is considered "Hall effect" - we've been down that road before)- I would not expect them to be interchangable. Does the Yugo dist have the same mechanical advance curve in it's body, or was the curve set in the ECU? Not familar with the Yugo variant.
 
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