RED X19

In the US each state has their own license plates. But all of them follow the same federal requirements on size and layout. That also allows individuals to request their own plate number (custom sayings, etc). Beyond that the states can create different images for the background, special editions, etc, so long as they meet the federal rules. Some states have gotten really out of hand making all sorts of special edition plates. Mostly to honor a particular groups of people, environmental situations, or other causes. But a lot of them are just ridiculous. I kind of wish there was one standard for the entire country.
 
SO, next topic here
0-100 7sec or a bit less 😂
Won’t put a video, these 7 seconds looks like eternity and speed looks like ~50kmh

0-100km/h not miles 😂

I hit my goal for about 1.5sec
To be faster than e30 325i
 
Dr.Jeff said:
In the US each state has their own license plates. But all of them follow the same federal requirements on size and layout. That also allows individuals to request their own plate number (custom sayings, etc). Beyond that the states can create different images for the background, special editions, etc, so long as they meet the federal rules. Some states have gotten really out of hand making all sorts of special edition plates. Mostly to honor a particular groups of people, environmental situations, or other causes. But a lot of them are just ridiculous. I kind of wish there was one standard for the entire country.
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Yes on size. But I don't see your point otherwise.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
In the US each state has their own license plates. But all of them follow the same federal requirements on size and layout. That also allows individuals to request their own plate number (custom sayings, etc). Beyond that the states can create different images for the background, special editions, etc, so long as they meet the federal rules. Some states have gotten really out of hand making all sorts of special edition plates. Mostly to honor a particular groups of people, environmental situations, or other causes. But a lot of them are just ridiculous. I kind of wish there was one standard for the entire country.
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I just love your registration plates. The colorful plates from the "Sunshine State" and others make me smile.
Do you really prefer it the EU boring way:
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Ok I don’t start pulls so hard like would on BMW :D Am nice to my gearbox as it is my only car at the moment

But these european plates are easy to recognize and memorize. That is very important aspect if there is hit and run...
 
If my oil pan would been 😅 ventilated directly into atmosphere will it affect oil consumption?

There is some oil leaks, but they doesn’t look like liter to 1000km.

*just remembered that my turbo has little play 🤦🏻‍♀️ That most likely is the main reason
 
My guess is it's most likely due to the turbo wear. But if the engines rings are a little worn then the added pressure (due to boost) can cause more blowby, which increases block pressure, which can make seals and gaskets leak more as well as have more oil vapor venting (either to atmosphere or back into the intake).
 
Checked today Bride Low Max replicas. They presents them as ones of the lowest sport seats.
They were a bit higher than X stock seats 🥺 but fitment in the X and for my body was perfect. Felt also a bit heavier than my X stock seats, that may be because mine have lost a lot of weight through the rust process :D
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The design of the seat inside can make a big difference on the weight. Aftermarket seats with a fiberglass (or carbon fiber) shell and foam padding are very light compared to the stock deats. But ones with a metal frame and springs, plus foam are heavier and almost the same as stock ones (which are the same basic design). I have a set of aftermarket seats that look a lot like molded fiberglass ones, but are actually a metal frame with springs (sample pic below). Very comfortable and very sturdy, but as you say they are almost as heavy as the stock ones (without the slider rails). And that is another point about the stock seats; I think the latest ones (Bertone) with removable adjustment/slider rails, the later ones (1500) with welded on rails, and the early ones (1300), all weigh different....but I've never actually measured them to find out by how much.

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Black-Tooth said:
The towers were constructed of 2 or 3 layers for strength at the factory. BUT, they were NOT good enough for hard driving and stiffer springs. My good friend Marko Plaia (now deceased) constructed and what he called "BIG FOOT Strut Tower Re-enforcement Plates" and they were sold through Chris Obert at FiatPlus.com . His simply were bolted in between the tower and the strut and I am told they would actually flatten the tower back into shape... and give much more support.

I can see someone taking these and welding them in as well, or building their own two. I personally have never cut into the towers to know if this is the case. PM Mr. Tony K and ask him as he has a test rig in his shop that is the back half of an X1/9... used for fitting components on engines.

Here is the link for the plates:

http://www.fiatplus.com/PLAIA-BIG-FOOT-STRUT-TOP-KIT.html

You may also want to install these up front...

http://midwest-bayless.com/Fiat-X19...ing-pair-2x-fiat-bertone-x19-128-all-new.aspx

There is one more dealer and that is Vicks Automotive to purchase parts here in the States, along with the kind folks on this site.

Keep up the good work, HTH.
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I got the Bigfoot plates from FiatsPlus and had them welded to the outside top. Was that the right way or wrong way?
 

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The plates I bought were (-not>) aluminum; I didn't know you could weld steel and aluminum... (EDIT- duh, bad recall)
They're meant to just slip in between the strut mount flange and the top of the tower; the Plaia harder rubber mount has longer studs than the originals.
 
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johnph said:
I got the Bigfoot plates from FiatsPlus and had them welded to the outside top.
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Was it difficult to weld the stainless to the mild steel body?
For the most part they were intended to be sandwiched under the top of the tower (body) and over the top of the strut, but welding them onto the top of the tower should provide a good reinforcement. So you should be fine.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Was it difficult to weld the stainless to the mild steel body?
For the most part they were intended to be sandwiched under the top of the tower (body) and over the top of the strut, but welding them onto the top of the tower should provide a good reinforcement. So you should be fine.
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My rear left strut tower’s top is stainless ~3mm :D
nothing difficult
 
Jefco said:
The plates I bought were aluminum
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Interesting. Like @ng_randolph said the typical ones are stainless. But I'm sure someone could be making aluminum ones. Lighter weight but would need to be thicker for the same strength, even if hardened alum.

All of the doubler plates add thickness to the strut height if mounted under the tower. So the thicker the plate, the more the body is raised (as in ride height). Obviously we are not talking about a lot, but with the suspension/ride height already so dang high (especially the front), it only makes it worse.

That might be one benefit to welding support on top of the tower as @johnph did.
 
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