RED X19

I didn't read your question carefully enough. Sorry. What are you planning for? Do you have a X1/9 flywheel (220mm) and a Punto gearbox? If so, that can be tricky.
The number of splines differ on input shaft between X1/9 and Punto (C510) gearboxes. I will try find a X1/9 friction plate with Punto splines for my new C510 box. Have a look at Helix web site to find reseller/pricing.
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
I didn't read your question carefully enough. Sorry. What are you planning for? Do you have a X1/9 flywheel (220mm) and a Punto gearbox? If so, that can be tricky.
The number of splines differ on input shaft between X1/9 and Punto (C510) gearboxes. I will try find a X1/9 friction plate with Punto splines for my new C510 box. Have a look at Helix web site to find reseller/pricing.
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I have X flywheel an X gearbox.

Clutch died absolutely.

If You were me would You just change the clutch and be happy.

Or as the gearbox is out, then also change diff to get lower rpm and better mpg? (I have diff from Uno turbo)
 
UT Mk1 diff would fit in a X1/9 case. I would (and going to) change the diff. The clutch would be X1/9 or UT Mk1 which is same. But you mentioned Punto clutch?
 
Bjorn Nilson said:
UT Mk1 diff would fit in a X1/9 case. I would (and going to) change the diff. The clutch would be X1/9 or UT Mk1 which is same. But you mentioned Punto clutch?
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Yes I mentioned Punto clutch because saw it mentioned few years ago on Facebook group and made a printscreen
And some other printscreen in attachment
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Maybe I’m not remembering something correct, but does Uno Turbo mk1 clutch fit X19 flywheel and gearbox?

Or there is no gain buying UT stock clutch kit over X19 stock clutchkit? Both are ~110€
 
I wouldn't buy a stock clutch for a tuned UT engine. I am pretty sure a stock clutch will slip at +250Nm in the long run.
The X and UT Mk1 flywheels differ, at least on the starter threading, but I am almost sure the clutch is the same.
The X1/9 and UT Mk1 clutch has 17 splines and UT Mk2/Punto GT has 20 splines. Also the diameter differs a few mm.
The Helix paddle clutch I have is a little bit harsh but works in daily traffic and handles the torque.
 
In the long run I also think it's best to get a upgraded clutch like @Bjorn Nilson is saying. Although a stock one may be fine for casual driving for a few years, eventually it is much more likely to end up like the one you have now.

If you decide to use a upgraded (aftermarket) unit, I'd look for whatever is available in your area for a decent price - either X1/9 or UT Mk1 (assuming they are the same). Most clutch makers offer different levels of performance, and the higher you go the stiffer it is (hard pedal and rough starts), so maybe find a decent compromise.

Over here I was very surprised to find there are a few aftermarket clutch companies that offer performance units for the X1/9. But since we never got the Uno they do not know what that is. However the performance ones here are pretty expensive. So if it turns out to be REALLY costly there, then maybe go back to stock and plan on replacing it more often.

Whatever you get look at the surface of your flywheel to see if it is burned, cracked, warped. May need to get it surfaced.
 
I have bought a kit of Valeo clutch.

flywheel will be resurfaced and most likely lightened a bit.

Is it worth to change pads on the new clutch for some that are meant for more power. A few companies does it here and that costs nothing compared to what it takes to change a clutch disc :D

(If old clutch disc won’t be damaged I could give it to add performance pads)

And am hoping that tomorrow will be able to buy before anyone else a winter-beater with some nice seats that will be perfect for X19.

Narrow leather Recaros, heated 😅

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I'm assuming the new clutch kit includes a new disk. So I'd take the old disk to see about having performance pads installed - as you said. Then you have two options. Sometimes the performance disks are not easy to use for regular street driving; too agressive of 'bite' and it is difficult to make smooth starts without stalling or revving the engine. So you can try both the new stock style and performance to see which you like more. ;)

My VW has similar Recaros, but with cloth inserts. Great seats! Is the car good enough to drive as a second vehicle...you know when the X1/9 does unwanted things. :(
 
hello!

was preparing things to take engine out, to change clutch kit.
as have mentioned before, my x had small oil leak from somewhere, and had to add about 1l of oil to 1000km.
I thought that turbo is leaking oil into intake. lowest point in U pipe under intercooler is absolutely dry, no signs of oil leaks from turbo into intake.

I chose to take engine out from top, to do that I had to take off manifolds. And was curious how engine is going and took a look into head to see valves. They look good :)

But what is no good? :D

Engine hasn't been turned on for about two weeks. It stopped at the point where 4th cylinder intake valve is closed. There is about a "two spits" of oil in that intake camber or maybe four spits :D also the others valves look that there is some oil leak.

Is there only one explanation - valve stem seals? I changed them before 8000km , but maybe did something wrong..


another thing, as engine will be out, radiator will be routed to the front, could there be any gains of exhaust manifold for turbo like in picture?
If that is better than stock UT manifold then I could also make it to fit a little bit bigger turbo :D

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I'm guessing it's most likely the valve stems seals. These are a bit difficult sometimes. They will come loose (off their position) if they weren't perfectly installed all the way. I've opened heads and found several either just sitting loose or completely away from the neck they go on. Also it is kind of easy to damage the seal surface on them when installing. A "cone" over the tip of the valve helps avoid that. Lastly there are a lot of poor quality seals out there. The same ones fit a lot of other cars so they are made by lots of manufacturers, and some are inferior. I like these: Corteco # 19018251.

However 1l of oil in 1000km is a lot for just valve stem seals. Look for other leaks as well.
 
mkmini said:
could there be any gains of exhaust manifold for turbo like in picture?
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I see no reason to and no gains in moving the turbo to the trunk. Stock manifold is good enough if not going for +300hp. Keep all plumbing as short as possible. There's room enough for a much bigger turbo than stock in the engine bay especially in your case. A drawback with stock manifold and a bigger turbo is the adapter needed to fit T25, T28 etc. If you are looking for more power an extractor with bigger pipes with a direct fitting to the turbo would be better. Have a look at the crazy 380-420hp Uno's on YouTube for inspiration.
 
Anything to help manage the excessive heat that results from a turbo boosted engine is helpful. The intake manifold is one of the critical areas for that, by reducing the temperature inside it. The exhaust (manifold, turbo, and pipe) is obviously another critical area, by preventing the heat from escaping it. Ceramic coating will do both, so in my opinion it's a good idea for both manifolds.
 
Gave flywheel together with new pressure plate for matching, resurfacing and lightening. He said there is no much gain for changing “racing” pads on new clutch disc, as most important is pressure plate.
Costs of slipping clutch escaletes fast 😬
Kit 127€
Resurfacing 25
Lightening 50
Balancing 50
250€ in total
 
mkmini said:
He said there is no much gain for changing “racing” pads on new clutch disc, as most important is pressure plate.
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I do not agree. A paddle clutch disk can handle much more torque and will not slip as easily as a solid round one.
Would like to hear more about the lightened flywheel.
 
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