Removing emissions components on yugo

Discussion in 'Front Wheel Drive Fiats' started by skyline3116, Aug 2, 2018.

  1. skyline3116

    skyline3116 Low Mileage

    New Jersey
    Well, I'm planning on removing all of the emissions junk from my 1.3l yugo cabrio.

    Anybody have any tips or a list of components to remove and what I need to cap?

    I have a 4-1 header that I will be installing so I don't have to worry about the egr valve.

    I haven't spent much time under the hood on this car, so I don't know all of the emissions components.

    Any help is appreciated!
  2. carl

    carl True Classic

    I have messed with a few 128s and a bunch of Xs but no direct experience with a Yugo motor. Assuming this is a carbed motor, when done you will have a carb with two fuel lines, in and return. I don't know if your motor has vacuum advance on the distributor, if it does you will have a vacuum line going from the intake to the distributor. There should be no other hoses coming from the carb or intake manifold other than the vacuum hose to the brake booster if you have power brakes.

    Anything else in the way of hoses will probably be emissions stuff. That is a very basic guideline!
    mkmini likes this.
  3. kmead

    kmead Old enough to know better

    Keeping the plumbing related to evaporative emissions won’t hurt the performance and the extra couple of hoses is not that big of a deal. It would mean two extra hoses at or around the carb and a hose that runs back to the fuel tank.
  4. skyline3116

    skyline3116 Low Mileage

    New Jersey
    I want to remove the emissions components to tidy up the engine bay, the car runs great right now.

    FAMICOMASTER Yugo owner

    United States
    You probably want to start by removing the air pump and catalytic converter (if legal where you live). Those are the two big ones. Even if it's not legal, at least clean the diverter valve and replace the filter.

    There are a few thermal switches that adjust the vacuum advance of the distributor, the first of which controls the hot air intake. It's the white plastic thing inside the air cleaner.

    There's a 3-port switch and a 4-port switch that are controlled by coolant temperature around the engine, these need to stay to keep holes plugged (unless you put bolts in them), but you can disconnect most of the vacuum lines.

    PCV is on the front of the engine and should stay, some cars do not have EVAP so I wouldn't worry about those.

    Some vacuum lines go to (specifically) the distributor's advancing unit and the atmospheric compensator. Do not remove these, they're important. I suggest bypassing the thermal switches and simply attaching them directly to the manifold. Plug any unused ports and that should be everything.

    If you have air conditioning, EFI, or the Renault 3-speed auto, it's a different story, but this covers most models.

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