Removing the head

JimD said:
Mike,

The seals are a press fit and the old one coming out has no reuse potential. I suppose you have a new one in hand so you can examine it prior to destroying the old one... right? Look the new one over and you will see it is basically an empty channel holding a V seal. There is a stretchy band inside the V seal to keep it in shape. If you don't have an official seal puller tool (there are a variety), you can carefully drive the tip of a small flat blade screw driver thru the wide flat back of the seal. Then use the screw driver and the hole you just created to pry the old seal out.

Lube the exposed cam shaft with motor oil, do the same for the surfaces of the new seal. Tap the new seal in using a proper diameter socket as a tool. If the inner V seal section tries to roll up on the cam shaft rather than slip over it.... STOP. Wiggle the seal back off and add some more oil to all surfaces in contact with each other.
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JimD,
Thank you very much for the detailed instructions. I have something that looks like it can be used as a seal puller but it is for contractor work. I looks the same as the pictures except shorter. I will take my time and use Mobil 1 for lube. I will take pictures and post them here. After all is said and done I might take my pictures and see if I can add to the Wiki pages dome more details for us all here.

I just looked at the seals I purchased and they have a lot of extra rubber. Does that matter or is there one you would use over the other? Or, should I clean the extra rubber out before I install one of the seal?

Gary says "Thank you for helping" his dad fix the X/19 (really to everyone who has helped),
Mike
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I'm sure you noticed that there is a fair amount of "wiggle room" in how the exhaust manifold and intake runners mount up to the head. But there is NOT much wiggle room in how the intake plenum fits to the top end of the runners. So, before you get too far, just pop the paper out of the intake runners for a sec and fit the plenum to the runners. You might find that one or more of the runner studs is not aligned with the holes in the plenum!!

If the plenum plops right onto the studs easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy, then you're all set, remove the plenum, set aside and continue to forge ahead.

OTOH if the runner studs are out of whack and not lining up, it's not that big of a deal at this stage. Remove the heat shield, then loosen the head-to-manifold nuts a couple of turns each. Put the plenum back onto the runners, wiggling the runners and exhaust manifold a bit here and there until the four separate pieces fall into place. Install a couple of nuts on the runner studs to temporarily cinch down the plenum to the runners, then go around and re-torque the stud nuts that hold the exhaust manifold and runners to the head. Remove the plenum from the runners and pick up where you left off.

Another item, I'm sure you noticed how some of the manifold stud washers on the head do double-duty, with one half of the washer pressing on part of the exhaust manifold and the other half pressing on part of the intake runner. These washers are extra thick and sized to fit nicely in the recesses in the exhaust manifold and runners, so be sure that you are using the exact washers that came out of those spots.

And one last tip. After the injectors are installed and you are ready to install the plenum onto the runners, you will want to loosely lay the sheet metal T-pipe for the injector cooler ductwork in place before fitting up the plenum, because it's very difficult to maneuver that t-pipe after the plenum is installed---it looks like it would fit in there easily after the plenum is installed, but trust me, between the injector stuff being in the way and the T-pipe's shape, it's much better to lay it loosely in place before the plenum goes on!
 
Dan Sarandrea (Phila) said:
I'm sure you noticed that there is a fair amount of "wiggle room" in how the exhaust manifold and intake runners mount up to the head. But there is NOT much wiggle room in how the intake plenum fits to the top end of the runners. So, before you get too far, just pop the paper out of the intake runners for a sec and fit the plenum to the runners. You might find that one or more of the runner studs is not aligned with the holes in the plenum!!

If the plenum plops right onto the studs easy-peasy-lemon-squeezy, then you're all set, remove the plenum, set aside and continue to forge ahead.

OTOH if the runner studs are out of whack and not lining up, it's not that big of a deal at this stage. Remove the heat shield, then loosen the head-to-manifold nuts a couple of turns each. Put the plenum back onto the runners, wiggling the runners and exhaust manifold a bit here and there until the four separate pieces fall into place. Install a couple of nuts on the runner studs to temporarily cinch down the plenum to the runners, then go around and re-torque the stud nuts that hold the exhaust manifold and runners to the head. Remove the plenum from the runners and pick up where you left off.

Another item, I'm sure you noticed how some of the manifold stud washers on the head do double-duty, with one half of the washer pressing on part of the exhaust manifold and the other half pressing on part of the intake runner. These washers are extra thick and sized to fit nicely in the recesses in the exhaust manifold and runners, so be sure that you are using the exact washers that came out of those spots.

And one last tip. After the injectors are installed and you are ready to install the plenum onto the runners, you will want to loosely lay the sheet metal T-pipe for the injector cooler ductwork in place before fitting up the plenum, because it's very difficult to maneuver that t-pipe after the plenum is installed---it looks like it would fit in there easily after the plenum is installed, but trust me, between the injector stuff being in the way and the T-pipe's shape, it's much better to lay it loosely in place before the plenum goes on!
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Dan,
Thank you... I thought about the intake runner fitment but not everything else. The injector cooler t-pipe I have had no issues taking in and out when needed. Maybe I am not thinking of the same thing.
Great stuff that we need to capture in the Wiki pages.
I am going to install the injectors today and replace a hose clamp that I dorked up the first time. Then the rest of the stuff.
After all of this, I will start another page for the radiator restore and install.
Mike
 
Help...
I went to install the middle stud/coupler that holds the two pieces of the timing belt cover and the hole used to have a spring in it. That hole is way to large.
How do I fix this?
Mike
 
Is there a sleeve or something that can be inserted to make the original size fit again???

Mike
 
Got a picture of the spring? I don't know of any spring in the hole, so perhaps someone stripped it previously and put a Heli-coil in there?
 
JimD said:
Got a picture of the spring? I don't know of any spring in the hole, so perhaps someone stripped it previously and put a Heli-coil in there?
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JimD,
That was it. Will it work or do I use something like JB-Weld to permanently glue it to the block?
I have heard of Heli-coils but never have seen or used them.
Time-Sert or equivalent???
Mike
 
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Tavalin said:
JimD,
That was it. Will it work or do I use something like JB-Weld to permanently glue it to the block?
I have heard of Heli-coils but never have seen or used them.
Time-Sert or equivalent???
Mike
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I am not sure if the Heli-Coil should be re-used if it fell out. I have no experience with them. While this stud is only there to hold the two cover pieces in place, you certainly don't want it to drop out and fall into the spinning gear in the area. Obviously the helicoil did the job until you dislodged it, maybe try putting it back in and see how solid it feels once installed? JB-Weld would certainly stick it to the block, but might be too permanent? I can't recall if that stud goes thru the water jacket plate of not. I will look for a picture.
 
OK, it looks like that stud is actually in the lower corner of the head, not the block. At least that's how it looks in this picture. You can see it dead center in the "V" formed by the T-belt as it wraps over the cam wheel. Positioned at about 5 o'clock on the wheel.
mockup_6.JPG

So I doubt it has any water passage issues, but as I said before, you don't want it to drop out either. Stick the helicoil back in to see if it tightens sufficiently and can't simply be pulled out. That's where I would start. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will weigh in.
 
JimD said:
OK, it looks like that stud is actually in the lower corner of the head, not the block. At least that's how it looks in this picture. You can see it dead center in the "V" formed by the T-belt as it wraps over the cam wheel. Positioned at about 5 o'clock on the wheel.
View attachment 28366
So I doubt it has any water passage issues, but as I said before, you don't want it to drop out either. Stick the helicoil back in to see if it tightens sufficiently and can't simply be pulled out. That's where I would start. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will weigh in.
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JimD,
Unfortunately, the helicoil is not reusable (at least this one). I will have to purchase another one or something of the sort.
I will think of something.
Again, JB-Weld does come to mind since I will not want the thing falling out.
Expert opinions welcome...
Mike
 
Part identification:
I found a part I do not know where it goes and one fell off of the air hose.
Where does the spring go?
Does the hose really need that squiggly part?
Mike
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Tavalin said:
Part identification:
I found a part I do not know where it goes and one fell off of the air hose.
Where does the spring go?
Does the hose really need that squiggly part?
Mike
View attachment 28372 View attachment 28373
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The spring looks like one of the two FI throttle return springs.

And JimD nailed the clippy-thingie (hose clamp retainer clip). I think FIAT decided to use the clippy thing because the Aux Air Valve does not have beaded nipples, the beads helping to keep hoses on nipples. I suspect a designer or engineer thought it would be a good idea to use the hose clamp retainer to positively ensure the AAV hoses would not somehow pop off. Under normal operation the AAV hoses are experiencing vacuum and not pressure so the fear that hoses would pop off is puzzling....unless they thought it might happen under an unlikely backfire scenario?
 
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Nice!!! Almost done with the reassembly. Alternator is giving me trouble mounting back in but I will get it.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike,

Look at this picture just to the right of the blue tape on the intake, that might be your spring on the throttle assembly like Dan was saying. It is hard to judge if the size matches the one you showed above.
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JimD said:
Mike,

Look at this picture just to the right of the blue tape on the intake, that might be your spring on the throttle assembly like Dan was saying. It is hard to judge if the size matches the one you showed above.
View attachment 28379
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JimD,
Looks like it. I will check today when I install the squiggly bracket.
BTW, that engine looks perfect!!! You tease me so.
I have a hose clamp under the engine I have to change and then almost all hose clamps will be new. Then, back on the alternator. It doesn’t want to play nice but I will figure it out. I have the alternator backer loose but just can’t seem to get it lined up. Oh well, it will happen...
Thanks,
Mike
 
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