Restoration of a 1987 Bertone

Make sure to clean the fuel injectors while you have the engine out. Everything I study say they are all probably clogged.
 
Make sure to clean the fuel injectors while you have the engine out. Everything I study say they are all probably clogged.

Actually, I sent the FI manifold off to Midwest Bayless to refurbish and they replaced all of the injectors. That with the new gas tank and all new fuel lines, it should be ready to go. ...I hope
 
All the inards of the tranny look great. The syncros and gears show little, if any, signs of wear. However, the 5th gear slider seems very loose on the fork and the hub. I attached a video to show how much it wobbles. Is this normal?

 
Made some progress this weekend.
  1. Trans back together (still concerned about the 5th gear slider slop -- see above). Filled with 20W-50 motorcycle oil.
  2. Emergency brake access panel removed, stripped, and ready for paint (new cables ready to install)
  3. Rear bumper removed
  4. Fuel tank ready to come out. Straps are stripped and ready to paint.
  5. Fuel pump mounting bracket stripped and ready to paint.
Tomorrow I hope to install the new valve shims and get the engine buttoned up, trans mounted to the engine, clutch installed, and engine ready to put back in.
 
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Finished painting the engine bay, removed the rear bumper, and put the transmission back together. When I first removed the transmission, I could not move the clutch lever -- it took a hammer to get it to move. Now it is cleaned, painted, new bushing, and lubed properly and it moves with one finger. New throwout bearing.
 
Engine in place and ready to mate the transmission (after I install the flywheel and new clutch assembly.) The shiny engine looks nice sitting inside the freshly painted and detailed engine bay! I will post photos later.

I can't wait to get this thing plumbed and wired so I can start it. But I need to do some wire brushing and POR-15 in the rear underside before I can install the exhaust. The car is solid but there is a tremendous amount of flaky surface rust in that area after I removed all the aluminum shielding so I want to get some POR-15 on there to protect it.

I'm so close to hearing it run...but not close enough.
 
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Engine and transmission in. I had to install the transmission twice because I'm an idiot and forgot to do the shield first. I also found out it has to go on before the pressure plate so I had to do that twice as well. But it's done now. Time to start hooking everything up.
 
I just noticed the timing belt has arrows on it and, surprise, they are pointed the wrong way. I never noticed them when I installed it. That's #2 of things I will do twice :oops:
 
According to this Gates tech article, the directional arrows are applicable to new belts that have timing marks printed on them, since the timing marks would only line up in the correct direction. Otherwise, timing belts currently being made are not inherently directional from a design or manufacturing standpoint. Based on the recommendations of belt manufacturers, and based on the shop manual for your year X, once the timing belt is installed and tensioned, your only choices are to leave it alone or replace it with another new one. They do NOT want you to remove the belt, flip it, and then reinstall it.

https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/news/2017-03-direction-of-belt-rotation
 
Nor have I. I don't see why direction would matter.
I don't recall seeing a timing belt without directional arrows. Not very important, if this document from Gates Australia is to be believed (page 17): "
4. Directional arrows (these are used to make sure the belt is running
in the proper direction of rotation for the belt timing marks to line up
with the engine marks)."
 
I don't recall seeing a timing belt without directional arrows. Not very important, if this document from Gates Australia is to be believed (page 17): "
4. Directional arrows (these are used to make sure the belt is running
in the proper direction of rotation for the belt timing marks to line up
with the engine marks)."

FIATs are not timed according belt position; hence, no arrow, no indicator on the belt. Some cars have them...they are a pain in the neck.
 
Thanks. Couple of immediate issues:
  1. Temp gauge immediately goes all the way up as soon as the key is turned on.
  2. Fuel gauge reads full even though I only put a couple of gallons in the tank. It is a new tank and new sender so either I have something wired wrong or it is something with the gauge.
  3. I don't think the oil pressure light is working so I only made sure it would start and then immediately shut it down. I may temporarily hook up a fuel pressure gauge just for peace of mind.
 
Thanks. Couple of immediate issues:
  1. Temp gauge immediately goes all the way up as soon as the key is turned on.
  2. Fuel gauge reads full even though I only put a couple of gallons in the tank. It is a new tank and new sender so either I have something wired wrong or it is something with the gauge.
  3. I don't think the oil pressure light is working so I only made sure it would start and then immediately shut it down. I may temporarily hook up a fuel pressure gauge just for peace of mind.

OK, temp gauge and oil light problem solved. Apparently the factory wiring manual has a misprint (I double checked) which led me to have the wrong wires going to the senders.

Still need to solve the fuel gauge.

It takes a long time to get it started but once it starts, it runs fine. Once I put the exhaust on, it will probably sound fine, too. :p
 
Brand new fuel tank with new sender and I still can't get the gauge to work. At first, the gauge pegged to the top so I thought maybe I had the wires on the sender reversed. Changed them around and now it just stays at zero -- although the low fuel light did come on once (but not since.)

Actually, I'm considering putting the original tank back in because once I removed and inspected it, it's in great shape. The new one doesn't seem to fit quite as snuggly.
 
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