Rust at bottom of windshield

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User1

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<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2><TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-TOP: 4px" vAlign=top colSpan=2>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Rust at bottom of windshield<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]August 23 1999 at 9:19 AM[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]Arthur Shingler [/FONT]</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=bottom colSpan=3><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD colSpan=3>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm certain this question or similar ones are posted with regularity, but forgive me -- I'm new to this discussion and only recently returned to the world of the X1/9, after having been gone since I sold a cherry '79 in '85. Now I have an '81 (I've owned it for three weeks) which has a few projects, most in the catagory of routine maintainance (these routine jobs, however, are greater in number than I originally thought, but that's the joy of a project).

One of the many concerns deals with some minor rusting at the bottom of my windshield, nothing major (aah. The joys of living in Southern California). The windshield is firmly seated -- I checked by openning both doors, removing the lid and gently pushing the windshield out from inside. No movement (I, of course, did not push with any great force, however). Nonetheless, very small rust boils are visible at base of windshield -- only a few -- 10 or so -- sporadically across bottom -- each only a couple of millimeters in diameter and about a millimeter high.

What can I do to retard or stop this growth. I certainly don't want it to get worse in the cooler months (yes, we do ocassionally get rain in So.Cal.). Is there a black silicone or other type product I can fill the cavity at the base of the window with? Or something? I certainly do not want to mar the cars good looks, however.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. I figure you folks up there in Seattle should be sufficiently familiar with rain and its toll on these italian beauties.

Art

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]August 23 1999, 9:46 AM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 15px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hi... I am assuming that the 81 is set up very similar to my 83... if not, I apologise in advance for making you read this... :)

Take off the chrome trim that runs around the windshield (take care not to bend it). If you are really handy, it wouldn't hurt to take the windshield out as well, but if you aren't comfortable with that, don't do it. Use an angle grinder with a wire brush attachment to take off the old paint and any rust (if you don't take out the windshield, take extra care not to damage the window's protective film with the grinder). Alternatively, if you have a sandblaster, or want to spend a few bucks to have it done, that will work just as well.

For treatment and prevention of further rust, I am a big advocate of a product called POR-15 (no, I don't work for them and this isn't a paid advert! :) I have used it on all of the cars in my collection that I have restored myself (a 51 Plymouth, 50 Desoto, and a couple of newer ones as well). You can purchase a "starter kit" from them that should be enough to cover the area you describe... Use the metal treatment solution to kill the rust and leave a zinc phosphate coating, then use the POR-15 over that (follow the directions carefully). When it is dry, you can prime over it. At this point, the final coat is best left to a body shop for the paint matching and quality topcoat... unless you have a sprayer, etc.... as matching paint isn't always easy (especially given the paint fade that I have seen on many California cars).

Good luck, and let me know if I can be of any assistance.

Steven<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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[/FONT][FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial][/FONT]</TD><TD vAlign=top align=right>[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]August 31 1999, 8:37 PM [/FONT]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-LEFT: 30px">
[FONT=Trebuchet MS, Verdana, Tahoma, Arial]<!-- google_ad_section_start -->The base of the windshield frame has to be just about THE most common area to rust out on these X1/9s. It is a common issue...

If caught early enough, treated and repaired the right way, you can successfully stall the rusting process for a time, sometimes years depending on the job you do fixing it, and how bad it was when caught.

The long term diagnosis, though, is usually that no matter what precautions EVENTUALLY it will rust out, typically from the center toward the sides. It will also someday eat away the lip on which the glass is adhered.

The ultimate fix is to remove the windshield and cut the entire section out, replacing it with a galvanised (or somehow rustproofed) piece of metal, so it can not happen again. The cause is not necessarily a bad window seal, but rather it is due mainly to the questionable quality of the steel used in Italy at the time the cars were built. This panel replacement is naturally best done by a body shop unless you yourself are skilled enough to do it. I have never been good at it personally.

If it is not too bad (yet) then I would go with Doc's advice. If, however, it ever becomes apparent that the rust has gotten to the metal lip on which the glass is mounted, the only recourse then is the above-mentioned surgery. -Mac.

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