Rust repair on trunk lid.
- Thread starter 545days
- Start date
I tweaked it a bit more then started cutting.
I welded up the pin holes and sealed up the rust I could reach after testing with phosphoric acid. I'm not a great welder but I was able to mig weld it with minimal distortion.
The whole repair took about 6 hours. Most time was spent working to match the repair panel to the shape of the trunk lid. I duplicated the curve by using a variety of round bar stock and different sized impact sockets as dollies to hammer against.
It's not perfect, but I'll bet I use 1/32" to maybe 1/16" of Bondo to get it perfect before painting.
Paint is a long way away. I have lots more rust to repair first.
I welded up the pin holes and sealed up the rust I could reach after testing with phosphoric acid. I'm not a great welder but I was able to mig weld it with minimal distortion.
The whole repair took about 6 hours. Most time was spent working to match the repair panel to the shape of the trunk lid. I duplicated the curve by using a variety of round bar stock and different sized impact sockets as dollies to hammer against.
It's not perfect, but I'll bet I use 1/32" to maybe 1/16" of Bondo to get it perfect before painting.
Paint is a long way away. I have lots more rust to repair first.
Mark_Toro
True Classic
Kinda fun isn't it. I always look at these type of adventures as "how far wrong can it really go"? If it was bad to start with, I can't make it much worse.
Biggest challenge I have hit to date was putting heat warp and oil can into the quarters on Milo. Welded too quickly and too long of a bead. Gave me my first experience with shrinking with a torch. Good learning!
Biggest challenge I have hit to date was putting heat warp and oil can into the quarters on Milo. Welded too quickly and too long of a bead. Gave me my first experience with shrinking with a torch. Good learning!