Rusted Out 1970 850 Spider Fix-Up

The basic kits are pretty cheap. The complete kits are pretty expensive.

When doing the rebuild be sure to pull the brass fuel line supply and return nipples. Choose a method for reinstalling them which includes some form of fuel resistant retention. I chose to remove them clean the interior thoroughly, rough up the brass tubes and then epoxy them back into the bores.

Many 850s have burnt down as a result of those nipples pulling out spraying gas all over and people using plastic fuel line filters.

Just some suggestions.
Thanks for the advice! I have noticed on all the smog stuff and fuel pump that the piping has an alarming habit of pulling out instead of the rubber hoses coming off.
 
Ok, carb is overhauled, engine has new belts on it, and new heater hoses. Clutch is on it's way back. New material on clutch disc, pressure plate resurfaced, and new throwout bearing for $77, shipping included. Not too bad!

May be two weeks or so away from hearing it run and maybe moving under its own power!
 
Daniel, how did you secure the fuel line fittings to the carb? JB Weld? Tapped and threaded in fittings?
 
Daniel, how did you secure the fuel line fittings to the carb? JB Weld? Tapped and threaded in fittings?
I went with the jb weld. Tapping and threading had the possibility, though remote, of busting the aluminum casting. It is hard for me to imagine that fuel pump putting out enough pressure to pop that line off, but it sure appears to have happened before!
 
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I first got into 850s when I was 16 and don’t ever remember this being a problem, then some 20years later when I bought my current car the line fell off on my first drive. I got very lucky. I think it’s related to the age of the parts. It’s not the pressure, it’s the the different metals and the heating and cooling cycles. That combined with vibration allows them to work loose. I’ve never tried JB Weld for this application but as others have reported success it should be fine.
You are right, when tapping one has to be careful.
 
Yes it is the dissimilar materials with slightly different amounts of expansion and contraction slowly but surely moving the part out of the carb top cover.

Knurling the part and using JB Weld or epoxy should suffice. I have also seen people do that and as a belt and suspenders approach safety wire the hose clamp to the carb body.
 
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Knurling the part and using JB Weld or epoxy should suffice. I have also seen people do that and as a belt and suspenders approach safety wire the hose clamp to the carb body.

I like it, it would certainly do in a pinch.
I probably went overboard (I’m know for that) but I threaded the carb and the fuel pump and run braided line. It is right by the exhaust after all.
 
Clutch is ON
Transmission is ATTACHED
Starter is ATTACHED (kinda a pain, as the PO left off the third nut on the inside, and I had to chase threads)
I am OVERHEATED and
I am taking a BREAK!

Seriously, 93 and humid is no fun.
 
Up and in. Next step is to get everything hooked back up. Also looks like I am leaking oil around the oil pan plug. Slow drip. Hope I did not damage something when it was out. I am rooting for a slightly loose drain bolt.

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All greased and new rubber...these babies are cleared for liftoff! Interesting..one of the transmission seals had the plastic "bearing", and one had a metal one. The metal bearing one still had no cracks and was pliable, while the plastic bearing one was totally shot.
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Now all I need is some cooler weather!
 
Interesting..one of the transmission seals had the plastic "bearing", and one had a metal one.

That's the axle seal holder (housing). Earlier models had them made of metal, later ones were plastic. The axle seals inside them can be replaced, but refitting the seal+holder back into the rubber boot without splitting the boot can be "a challenge" sometimes.
 
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