scorpion #1147 resurrection thread

Mike, what offset are your wheels and are you running any spacers? My front 195-width tire sidewalls are a bit close to the stock strut perch on my +35 offset wheels w/5mm factory spacers.
 
from what I understand, they're fiat 124 fitment. this snap implies they might be ET28? I'm running only the factory spacer. I can get in there and check the clearance to the perch later today.

IMG_20191106_214739-L.jpg
 
has anyone installed the 3-line kit from Monte Hospital? I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on how the bending went.
 
@mikeroten I didn't do the full 3-line kit, but did install Monte Hospital's bypass pipe to eliminate the run of tubing that goes back to my non-existent booster -- it's the same copper tubing. The tubing was easily straightened out from its coil and didn't require a bender for the straight run I made. That said, the shop that rebuilt my engine thought I'd bought refrigerant tubing from Home Depot or something. They're not convinced copper tubing is up to the task pressure-wise and recommended I replace it with harder steel.
 
mikeroten said:
from what I understand, they're fiat 124 fitment. this snap implies they might be ET28? I'm running only the factory spacer. I can get in there and check the clearance to the perch later today.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Mine are actually ET25 now that I look and clearance is next to nothing. Doesn't seem to be chewing the tire up... yet.
 
I had a sage tech once tell me (regarding tie rod to wheel clearance on an Audi I had)... "clearance is clearance - if that stuff is moving around then you've got bigger problems"
 
The tubing is Cunifer which is a copper nickel alloy. It is what is used in a number of higher end cars.

The nice thing is it will never rust. It is notably softer than steel lines but it is plenty strong enough for the pressures in the brake system.
 
On my x19 I'm running 185/60-13 Proxes R888. The tires are wider than most 185/60 and are touching the spring perches with the stock spacer. I'm using 2 spacers and it didn't get me any problems with the wheel bolts being long enough because I'm using... studs instead!
 
bellhousing timing marks are different than I remember from my 124. can anyone confirm for me this is TDC? All other marks are dialed, but the yellow plastic cover is a shitty method for timing the crank. top of photo is towards front of car.

IMG_20200416_210027-S.jpg
 
Yes, that is 0 degrees, followed by 5 & 10 to the right (downward in the photo). The numbers are below the marks.


mikeroten said:
bellhousing timing marks are different than I remember from my 124. can anyone confirm for me this is TDC? All other marks are dialed, but the yellow plastic cover is a shitty method for timing the crank. top of photo is towards front of car.

IMG_20200416_210027-S.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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what's frustrating is the new water pump's total shaft length is just a mm or 2 longer than the original, which means I'm going to have to break the engine mount free on the passenger side and elevate it just a hair to get the pulley on. nobody ever said working on this car would be easy or simple. still easier to work on than pop's dino was!
 
Yeah sorry, pulley has to go on the pump when the pump is loose. I also found this out the hard way.

It's a pain in the ass.
 
there's no way I'm removing the damn pump. I'd rather move the engine. :)
the original pulley came off with the pump installed. oh well.
 
so since I haven't gotten up to my folks house to pick up the engine bay crane so I can do the damn pulley, I decided to start in on the Monte Hospital dual front brake conversion. I'm really apprehensive about drilling a hole in the firewall, but it IS in the name of safety improvement as a dual front circuit is definitely better than single. damn that's a big hole to drill. :-O
 
I'm thinking the best way to approach this will be to determine where on the firewall I want the hole to be and drill it, then reinstall the pedal box and let the hole in the end plate be where it shall be (granted it'll fit)
 
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