Scuderia Ferric Oxide

There are low cost threaded collar kits known as "LeMons lowering specials" found on eBay for not a lot of $. When these first appeared en-mass on LeMons cars, the Lemons folks went looking to discover they were very much low-$.. They work ok, sort of ok.

What is often not appreciated, traction or mechanical grip capability of the tire does depends on the dynamic roll center, it is where force is effectively applied when cornering. One way of visualizing this, take a broom and put one hand on the top of the broom stick. Put the other hand about center of the broom, then push the broom with that hand and note the amount of force needed to move the sweeper bristles of this broom. Repeat the same with the hand near the sweeper bristles of the broom, it will take more force to move the broom. This is a gross illustration of where the force applied makes a difference in traction-mechanical grip. If the dynamic roll center moves below road or ground level, the force on that tire will tend to cause that tire side wall to roll reducing the tire's ability to produce traction.

The dynamics involved is a LOT more complex than lowering the overall center of gravity, there is suspension geometry, dynamic roll centers that move and LOTs more. Dynamic roll center can be used to tune the mechanical grip of the suspension along with a long list of other various other chassis-suspension-wheel/tire combos that are interactive with no specific absolute for a given chassis-suspension and driver preference-style..

That said and given there are absolute geometric limitations to the suspension parts in the exxe, it makes sense to limit the suspension travel to keep the suspension part curves reasonable. This is partly due to the need for camber control and control of how much the dynamic roll center is allowed to move around. This translates to what is perceived as high spring rates, but they are not that high once cornering roll angles are considered, the spring rates are simply a product of the cornering loads involved and what is needed to keep the suspension curves reasonable.
Typically, the LeMons chassis which is stock begins with setting the ride height with the front lower control arm about level with the road level. Once this is set up, put the chassis on the corner weight set up, level the rest of the chassis and get the weight per corner reasonable and cross weights near 50%. This means same tire pressures all around with typical driver weight in chassis. Beginning static camber about 3 degrees negative rear, 2 degrees negative front. The steering links have been modified to allow bump steer adjustment which should be done once the static ride height is set. Rubber bushings have been replaced with alloy steel, fiber reinforced teflon liner spherical bearings made by Spec-Line (aerospace supplier) Spherical bearings should be staked at the outside of the bearing to pre-load the bearing and lesser quality spherical bearings will not last. If crappy spherical bearing or rod ends are used, they make chassis set up awful as they will not hold a setting and be repeatable. Dampers must have the ability to control the spring rates involved. Memory notes 550lb/in front and 425lb/in rear (?) no stability bars on a 1,700 pound car. Loaded roll angles are about 2 ish degrees. Chassis easily produces 1G on track with DOT 180 tires. Rear spring/damper rates were tweaked a few times to deal with corner exit wheel spin, there is enough torque from that rotary to make this a very real problem.
Then it is up to the drivers to note and FB on tweaks. Tire pressures and tire temps become the other easy tweaks to adjust as needed Tire temps should be taken soon as the car comes into the hot pits as tire temps can change rapidly. Keep those tires happy will keep the driver and most involved happy as those small patches of road contact are the only things keeping it all together.

What works on a smooth track chassis-suspension often does not work or is acceptable for the driver of a road car with very different road and driving needs.

This said, the PBS approach was to gain-preserve as much suspension travel as possible using 200lb/in springs at all four corners. Add stability bars to aid with cornering roll angles. Then there was the moving of the suspension pickups to effectively lower the overall center of gravity and gain a better camber curve? No mention of dynamic roll center, bump steer compensation and more was not discussed of mentioned in the PBS prep book. What remained as a question from that era when Fiat North American decided to do the X1/9 race car project, why did FNA not go to Abarth or Dallara or Giuseppe Puleo to modify or set up the X1/9 for SCCA events?


Bernice
 
Looks like the Australian Lemons organizers have had a bit of a drama over the past 6 or so months, so not sure when the next events will be held as the "commander" for Oz Lemons has said they will never be running another event.
Have you got any view as to when you're hoping to get this thing on track?
Maybe we can organize an equivalent low budget enduro race at Barbagallo (although they're horrendously expensive) or at the Collie track, where they're much more supportive of grassroots motorsports.
 
Looks like the Australian Lemons organizers have had a bit of a drama over the past 6 or so months, so not sure when the next events will be held as the "commander" for Oz Lemons has said they will never be running another event.
Have you got any view as to when you're hoping to get this thing on track?
Maybe we can organize an equivalent low budget enduro race at Barbagallo (although they're horrendously expensive) or at the Collie track, where they're much more supportive of grassroots motorsports.
It's now called "BEERS" Budget Extreme Endurance Racing

they held an event just this weekend gone at Collie.

Hoping to have it done for the Ocotber planned event

SteveC
 
Sounds good.
Maybe I should scramble to get my fiat ready.
go for it....

the standard of cars running here in W.A. is quite high.

the quickest cars are pretty obviously ex IPRA# / saloon cars / ex drifter ... lapping Collie short track in the 53's (which is pretty fast) and no way , absolutely not a chance do they fall into the budget...but to get numbers (and probably 'cos they are the promoters friends) they turn a bit of a blind eye and apply "penalties" in some arbitrary fashion after the race is run...

I haven't seen the "revised" lap charts with penalties applied, but nearly 400 laps of the short track in about 7.5 hours of racing (a couple or red flag events, and a break at lunch) for the leading 3 or 4 cars is a hard days work for any car, and then to back it up with 8 hours on the long track the very next day...hence the effort and lots of new parts applied to my build.

# IPRA is Improved Production Racing Association.

a link to a few pictures from the last beers weekend
the black/white/red commodore was the fastest consistant car, but straight from waneroo ipra racing or a CAMS saloon car... the twin plate clutch in the thing alone would exceed budget

SteveC
 
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I really wish they would run a low budget lemons style enduro race but without the weird penalties, gags, quirky punishments for over performing etc.
I do mathematical simulation for a job and worked with Alex Brundle and others do their professional iRacing 24HR of Lemans stint simulations and race/pit strategy modelling last year with great success and would love to get to apply that stuff to amateur 24hr races, but the whole Lemons mentality and "quirkiness" makes it not possible unfortunately, which is a shame. Taking it "too seriously" gets frowned upon 😒
 
Taking it "too seriously" gets frowned upon 😒

I have already been told by the organisers that I'm taking it "too seriously" ... but they haven't even seen the car yet so I don't Know what they are basing their opinion on....

I agree with the "too serious" out on the track... it's an endurance race so there is no need for desperate braking manoeuvers or body contact / elbows out type driving, so I agree 100% with penalties being imposed for that sort of behaviour on track or anything (serious) safety related in the pits.

But the organisers can't be called "serious racers" themselves, speak to them and you'll see what I mean... I saw several quite serious rule infringements (like some guy refueling with shorts / t shirt and flip-flops) but thought better of taking some pics and pointing it out, as it would likely become a bone of contention with these guys... not really what I would call "professional"... but that alternattive is CAMS and the WASCC.

SteveC

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Steve, did you get anywhere with a 3D suspension program?
I have had a go at the rear susp on the 2D Vsusp but not sure how true it will be. Unlike the front susp the pivot points for the rear they are nowhere near parallel to the car centre line, I did a CAD drawing using the factory drawing you posted earlier as the basis, for the virtual LCA I used the length at 90 deg to the pivots but then turned to put it at 90 deg to the centreline to input into 2D Vsusp. Also, the factory drawing shows the F and R pivots at the same height, on my car there is a 6mm height difference.
X1-9 REAR SUSPENSION.png


You can change the roll angle from 0 deg to 2 deg and see where the RC moves to.
 
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I also did a drawing of my front suspension now that I have moved the top of the struts inwards by about 20mm, and input in the Vsusp program. I have fitted 500lb/in springs in the front and 375lb in the rear to reduce body roll. I have set the corner weights and adjusted F and R ride heights to try and get the best compromise with roll centres with the 2 deg body roll I am hoping to have.
Steve H or Bernice, if you can chime in with any opinions would be appreciated. Steve H has said that he likes to have the rear RC lower than the front RC, is this mainly for autocross driving or does it apply equally to road course use? Just wondering as I have seen where Porsche 911s as standard generally have the rear RC higher than the front, I thought with their rear weight bias they may need similar to an X1/9?
My RCs are front 63mm, rear 54mm, using the VSusp program.
Fiat X1-9 susp front.png

 
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nope, the friend of a fiend wasn't interested in helping, so just using the 2D version...

I'm waiting on my Koni strut inserts to arrive before I can can continue with the suspension build.

SteveC
 
Weight reduction - cutting away the rusty metal I don't want..

Lemons is all about performance restrictions due to cost, but one thing they simply don't poilice is weight, no minimum weights or restrictions on bodywork save rules

3.D.2 Doors: No Gull-wings! Or Lambo-doors; or anything else that will trap you in the event of a nasty incident.
and
3.J.1 Windshields: A sturdy, driver-protecting windshield is required. Minimum requirement is a laminated windscreen, and windshields must be thick enough and suitably braced to resist a heavy object striking the windshield at speed.
3.J.3 Guards, Doors, and bonnet required.
and
3.K.1 Engine Firewall: Gaps or holes in the engine firewall must be sealed up with metal plate or OE-type grommets. If you can see through it, we want it closed up. In addition to the required unbroken firewall between engine and cockpit, rear and mid-engined cars must have a sturdy rear window or other complete upper barrier for driver protection against fire, hot oil, angry villagers, etc. Metal, heavy polycarbonate (1/4-inch or thicker), and OE glass are all acceptable.

so it's pretty much open slather except for dealing with safety related issues.. I still want the car to look like a Fiat X1/9.

Fortunately in a previous race car build for a friend, I made a full set of moulds for fibreglass bonnet / boot / engine cover / door skins with glass removed / targa bar inner and outer skins. I can also lose quite a lot of weight from the bodywork with selective removal of metal which (for a race car) just isn't needed and I now think I have the car to the point where I have pretty much all the "excess" steel removed, and IMO haven't compromised the structural integrity of the unit. Would I race or drive the car just like this, well no, as the roll cage and bracing needs to go back in to ensure the torsional ridgidity is at least (hopefully more) that the OE sheetmetal, but overall a lot lighter...and in the spirit of the lemons rules the materials for the parts going on the car will be a "lemon's dollars" spend, but I can get an awful lot of perfomance improvement ith $200 of fibreglass matting and resin...again all labour is mine so it doesn't count towards the spend.

The car was pretty rusty too when I got it, not in the chassis or structurally important places, but enough to make the car an unconomical fixer IMO, so I'm not worried about cutting this chassis up for this purpose.
View attachment 38409View attachment 38410View attachment 38411View attachment 38412View attachment 38417View attachment 38419
the engine firewall will hinge along the lower edge (or perhaps the side edge if there are clearance issues to the seat) and inside will be the fuese box / relays and electrical wiring.
View attachment 38420View attachment 38421

lemons rule 3.F.5 Fix Sharp Edges: Sharp edges in any location, but especially in and around the cockpit, must be rolled, removed, or securely covered

all the edges on the front of the targa bar I considered an issue, so I removed them... I'm going to repurpose the roof as the engine cover as I need a solid cover above the engine, I shortened a cracked roof I had, and this is where it will sit n the car to clear all the components. Sealing the sides in wont be too hard
View attachment 38422View attachment 38423View attachment 38424View attachment 38535View attachment 38536

I will be replacing the taga bar with a fibreglass replica... I'm going to try and incorporate a roof and targa bar into one piece, I want the car to be closed roof. I'll make fibreglass bonnet / boot / targa bar roof / and door skins for weight reduction.
View attachment 38426View attachment 38427

the plan is somethng like this.
View attachment 38541View attachment 38542
I'm going to make the targa / roof in one piece, pinned into the windscreen frame up front (nice holes already in the frame) and fastened at the back, so it should lift off in one piece and fit over / around the roll cage hoop, I think the angle doesnt look too silly... I was going to make it a sort of curved top, but thats getting difficult so sort a "fixed head coupe" and not a targa anymore
I'll notch out the drivers side section of the roof too to give more room to get in / out. lifting/ tipping the back of the roof by 3" / 75mm makes the opening a lot bigger


SteveC
I'm curious about the engine cover - looking at mine it seems very light already - did you gain much by remaking it?
 
I'm curious about the engine cover - looking at mine it seems very light already - did you gain much by remaking it?
As I'm losing the rear window glass it's a requirement to have an engine cover free from openings etc so if a rollover or fire occurs nothing (fluid or flames) can reach the driver.

I repurposed an old (cracked and damaged) roof (which is fibreglass already) but I can go another step and remake it in a thinner /lighter copy.

GregS from this forum made a complete new one (in Series 1 shape) out of sheet aluminium, so I guess there are still weight savings to be had from the OE item.

SteveC
 
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