Scuderia Ferric Oxide

Finally the seat I chose (which I needed to back order) was delivered this week!

I'm glad I waited, it's very comfortable, easily wide enough to fit me, the other drivers still have to try out but I think it should be OK. Once the seat arrived I could measure up for the runners, they and the seat belt (5 point harness) both arrive next week. So now I get to finish off some of the interior / driver related stuff, which all needs to be done before the roll cage gets designed.

I also found a shifter pivot online, for some Renault / peugoat, but looks like it will do the job nicely as I wanted to gte rid of the weak point, the plastic shifter pivot ball and socket, and also be able to set the height / pivot ratio to how I like it.

20201218_191111.jpg20201218_191123.jpg20201218_191137.jpg20201218_191149.jpg

The seat style is a

SAAS Mk II - fixed back (Australian made product)
It's ADR compliant, so is instantly complied (as long as the mount runners also are approved) for fitment to passenger vehicles for road use, and is also CAMS (Confederation of Australian Motor Sport) approved for motorsport use.

SteveC
 
Finally the big bunch of fittings and pieces I ordered online for the lemons build arrived... covid and holiday season delays... but it did get here.

the fueling system layout for the lemons racer. I'm still waiting on a few fittings, but it's about 50 individual components / fittings in the system just up to the outlet of the pressure regulator on the left!

20210115_100746.jpg

and now I have to make up the hoses...

all the fittings (well most of them) are from China, exactly the same part as the name brand ones like aeroflow / earls that you buy in a speed shop but about 1/3 of the price, lightweight anodised aluminium.

Fuel pump isnt chinese... thats a genuine Carter gold 4070 47GPH at 5psi, rated 4 to 7 psi, free flow 72GPH, regulator is holley 12-804 1 to 4PSI,
(gauge is zero to 1 bar) regulator comes preset at 2.8PSI, fuel filter is aussie made Saas and is a filter / water separator.

The 2 litre surge tank is from china, it has 6 x -8ORB (O ring boss) (3/4UNC) fittings welded in. The two feed lines into the surge tank from the main tank run above the floor, pass thru the central tunnel, and will come out in the fuel tank enclosure at floor level. I'm going to braze two 3/8 steel hose fittings like these into the base of the tank.


Dual -6 lines from the base of the orignal fuel tank L & R running to the surge tank, (which will vent air -out only- so will always be full)
20210115_100816.jpg
still waiting on these -8ORB to -6 male 90 full flow fittings to go into the surge tank as the inlets
8orb to dash 6.jpg
Dual -6 lines from the surge tank to the filter, which is a very light alloy assembly
20210115_120608.jpg
Dual -6 out from the filter and into a Y piece (still waiting on that - not in the picture) and into the Carter fuel pump

the whole function of the surge tank is to make sure the fuel pump only draws fuel, never any air. As the OE fuel tank isn't baffled, at 1 G of lateral load liquid that is 1.0 specific gravity will stand up at 45 degrees in a vessel (if the liquid can move / if there's air space) the main tank is always going to have air space, and the stock pickup when the fuel level is low, and cornering forces high can become exposed.

I'm putting in a pickup in each of the bottom corners ( a bit like the efi tank) and with a check valve in the lines, fuel can only travel towards the surge tank even with high cornering loads, and the pump will always be drawing liquid only... the dual lines thru the filter is to minimise any resistance to flow, all the fittings and all the passages are minimum of 7.5mm ID

all fits very snugly (along with the remote mount oil filter) in the floor of the old spare wheel well.
20210211_155721.jpg20210211_155824.jpg20210211_155711.jpg
SteveC
 
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Most of the fittings and parts for the transmission oil cooler system also arrived.

A general schematic layout of the parts
20210115_121000.jpg


From the transmission oil drain plug (M22 x 1.5 fitting) it's two -12AN 90's (all full flow fittings except the -6) into the generic (chinese) alloy power steering oil reservoir. Two reasons for this... I want to increase the overall capacity of the system, and this adds about 400ml (in total I'm hoping to get almost 4 litre of oil in the system, standard is about 3.2 litres from memory, so about 25% more) plus it acts as a "buffer" for the system. As I've chosen a pump (on price as this is all lemons dollars cost) that isn't able to run 100% of the time, I've designed the system with a variable delay loop timer (I'm thinking 20 seconds on / 20 seconds off cycles) .and because of the constant on/off cycling the system will work much better with a surge reservoir ahead of the pump. it also adds a very easy fill and level check point, the screw on cap is tight fitting with an O ring seal. Where its mounted the level in the tank will be the level in the trans.

Outlet from the buffer tank / inlet to the pump is -10AN, The original fitting in the tank was a tiny m14 x 1.5 ORB barb, and an -10 to M14 fitting has a tiny thru hole, so I enlarged the hole in the tank and tapped it to M16 x 1.6 which has a 11mm thru hole. (the pump has a 11mm thru hole 3/8 bsp to -10 fitting. Such large fitting and lines are needed on the sucton side of the pump to eliminate resistance to flow.

Outlet from the pump to the cooler is -8AN. Not in the picture (still waiting) are the to 1/2 inch to -8 male compression fittings that will slide over the co0ler tubes and with a compression olive secure to them giving a -8AN male fitting on the tube and the straight -8 female hose ends that will thread over them

The three way junction block and fittings are to distribute the cooled oil back into the transmission, 1 x - 8 line in., 3 x -6 lines out

I'm going to drill / tap 3 x 10 x 1,25 holes right above 3 / 4 and 5 gears to flood them with cooled oil from above, rather than just relying on splash lubrication, the discharge hole in the M10 fittings is just over 3mm and will be the flow restrictor. The system (by calculation) should move about 4 litres a minute of running.
20210115_121017.jpg

hopefully this stops two of the issues these transmissions seem to have when used hard.

3rd gear and 4th gear I have seen sieze the bush to the cluster shaft/inside of the gear, and I've seen 4th and fifth gears competely destroyed. with teeth turned into powdered metal.. both related to lubrication / oil temp issues IMO so this system should (fingers crossed) eliminate these known problems.

The trouble I have is that I have no idea how much heat I need to dissapate from the oil, and no idea (in real terms) what the 14000BTU's of capacity the cooler has "looks" like in terms of degrees of temp dropped per volume of oil, I haven't bothered to work it out... the only real test is testing the car and measuring the oil temps with the sytsem on and off.

If the system doesn't have enough cooling capacity, the option to add a second identical cooler is available.

I could loop them in series, joined with a thermostat to bypass the second cooler if the oils temp is too low (so the oil never gets too cold) as the three way junction/ditribution block has a second inlet at the other end and I already have a suitable thermostat.

edit 24/03/2021
20210324_105513_LI.jpg

after a few design changes / improvements, this is the final setup going into the lemons racer.

1. pickup from the oil drain plug on the transmission (M22 x 1.5) -10 90 elbow
2. the pump, for the lemon it's budget buy at just under $100aud. can't be run continuously so will cycleon a loop on/off for 20 second, (it's a bit of a gamble if this pump is really suitable for the job, but Im backing it will last the 16 to 20 hours I need it to)
3. a one way check valve to ensure the oil doesn't drain back when the system is turned off
4. the inlet to oil cooler one
5. the oil thermostat. if trans oil temp is under 90C the oil will then exit and go to the oil reservoir tank (8)
6. outlet from oil thermostat
7. outlet from oil cooler two. If the oil temp is more than 90c when it gets to the thermostat it will pass thru oil cooler two
8. the oil reservoir tank, 2 litre capacity
9. inlet to oil reservoir
10. inlet to oil reservoir
11. discharge check valve. this is to stop the oil draining from the tank when the pump cycles off, it's adjustable (3 to 8 psi) so I can set the "cracking" pressure it needs to open, probably quite low at about 5psi
12. a ball valve, so that the system can be turned off when not in use / overnight, this is a "just in case" as the check valve (11) will not have sufficient residual pressure on it's dischage side to full seat the internal ball.
13. the three way distribution block and fittings that will feed the oil into the transmission casing directly above 3, 4 and 5 gearsets. includes a fitting to put an mechanical temp gauge thermocouple which wil read the temp of the cooled oil returning to the transmission.

all up this is maybe $600 of lemons spend. The chinese oil coolers were $100aud for the pair. The 2 litre resevoir was $60aud. The two check valves ($40 for the discharge valve) and the big bunch of fittings adds up to about $250

It also adds easily 2.5 litres of extra oil capacity to the system, the 2 litre reservoir, plus the capacity of the coolers and the lines means the trans will have close to 6 litres of oil circulating, so pretty much halves it's duty cycle as well as keeping it at a safe temperature.

the dual oil coolers may seem like overkill to some, but it's to allow for varied ambient temps, one race could be at 15/20C and another easily could be 35/40C ambient on the day, ths way the oil won't get too cold on a cold day

SteveC
 
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Finally the big bunch of fittings and pieces I ordered online for the lemons build arrived... covid and holiday season delays... but it did get here.

the fueling system layout for the lemons racer. I'm still waiting on a few fittings, but it's about 50 individual components / fittings in the system just up to the outlet of the pressure regulator on the left!

View attachment 41289
and now I have to make up the hoses...

all the fittings (well most of them) are from China, exactly the same part as the name brand ones like aeroflow / earls that you buy in a speed shop but about 1/3 of the price, lightweight anodised aluminium.

Fuel pump isnt chinese... thats a genuine Carter gold 4070 47GPH at 5psi, rated 4 to 7 psi, free flow 72GPH, regulator is holley 12-804 1 to 4PSI,
(gauge is zero to 1 bar) regulator comes preset at 2.8PSI, fuel filter is aussie made Saas and is a filter / water separator.

The 2 litre surge tank is from china, it has 6 x -8ORB (O ring boss) (3/4UNC) fittings welded in. The two feed lines into the surge tank from the main tank run above the floor, pass thru the central tunnel, and will come out in the fuel tank enclosure at floor level. I'm going to braze two 3/8 steel hose fittings like these into the base of the tank.


Dual -6 lines from the base of the orignal fuel tank L & R running to the surge tank, (which will vent air -out only- so will always be full)
View attachment 41290
still waiting on these -8ORB to -6 male 90 full flow fittings to go into the surge tank as the inlets
View attachment 41291
Dual -6 lines from the surge tank to the filter, which is a very light alloy assembly
View attachment 41292
Dual -6 out from the filter and into a Y piece (still waiting on that - not in the picture) and into the Carter fuel pump

the whole function of the surge tank is to make sure the fuel pump only draws fuel, never any air. As the OE fuel tank isn't baffled, at 1 G of lateral load liquid that is 1.0 specific gravity will stand up at 45 degrees in a vessel (if the liquid can move / if there's air space) the main tank is always going to have air space, and the stock pickup when the fuel level is low, and cornering forces high can become exposed.

I'm putting in a pickup in each of the bottom corners ( a bit like the efi tank) and with a check valve in the lines, fuel can only travel towards the surge tank even with high cornering loads, and the pump will always be drawing liquid only... the dual lines thru the filter is to minimise any resistance to flow, all the fittings and all the passages are minimum of 7.5mm ID

all fits very snugly (along with the remote mount oil filter) in the floor of the old spare wheel well.

SteveC

I may be misunderstanding exactly how you're running the fuel lines. But you may run into a problem passing Lemons tech if you have any non-OEM fuel lines inside the cockpit. I'd check with your local officials if possible.

I'm loving this thread btw. Do you just source those fuel fittings from ebay?
 
I may be misunderstanding exactly how you're running the fuel lines. But you may run into a problem passing Lemons tech if you have any non-OEM fuel lines inside the cockpit. I'd check with your local officials if possible.

I'm loving this thread btw. Do you just source those fuel fittings from ebay?
you're absolutely correct about non OEM fluid lines thru the cabin... but fortunately this is all tucked into the (ex) spare wheel well, which will also have a firewall / sealed door between all this and the cabin... the fuel lines all route left / right across the car.

Yes nearly all the AN fittings are sourced from ebay / chinese manufacturers representative / dropshipper ... but I found a couple that seem to have almost everything (at the same prices too mostly so probably represent the same manufacturer) and so far the products they have sent get my stamp of approval for fit / finish. ynspeedau and racingparts-wholesale-au are the ebay seller names

I cant say the same for some fittings though... I bought a breather catch tank, it came supplied with -10 to -8 an fittings, but the quality of the threads is poor, so no way those fittings could be used in a pressure situation, I'm not using the fittings anyay as I'll be using -12 push lock hose ends for the breather hoses... they fit like they were made for the job!
20210115_121215.jpg



SteveC
 
You WILL have problems passing LeMons Tech if any of the fuel lines leak or look iffy in any way. Fuel system is considered a safety item and NOT subject to cost limits in the same way as brakes.

Fuel lines inside the driver compartment IS an issue.

The rotary LeMons X has all aero spec plumbing identical to any proper race car or aircraft.

Some years ago at Sears Point they had a BMW E30 flame on big time. Driver nearly got toasted in this incident, caused a momentary track-race stop to put out the fire and clean up the mess. What caused the fire, absurd fuel plumbing. This team decided to use electrical flexi metal housing with oem fuel lines inside. Over the duration of racing, the sharp edges of the home brew racer-facade fuel line cut into the oem fuel line causing a high pressure fuel leak spraying the back of this E30 with fuel feeding the fire.

Do NOT skimp on any aspect of the fuel pluming. The idea and belief LeMons racers are crap cans is a myth.

Same applies to the cooling system and other related systems.

Don't even try to skimp on any of the safety stuff like roll cage, on car fire system, belts, HANS device and ... Any of those are an instant bounce.


Bernice



I may be misunderstanding exactly how you're running the fuel lines. But you may run into a problem passing Lemons tech if you have any non-OEM fuel lines inside the cockpit. I'd check with your local officials if possible.

I'm loving this thread btw. Do you just source those fuel fittings from ebay?
 
Most of the fittings and parts for the transmission oil cooler system also arrived.

A general schematic layout of the parts
View attachment 41293

From the transmission oil drain plug (M22 x 1.5 fitting) it's two -12AN 90's (all full flow fittings except the -6) into the generic (chinese) alloy power steering oil reservoir. Two reasons for this... I want to increase the overall capacity of the system, and this adds about 400ml (in total I'm hoping to get almost 4 litre of oil in the system, standard is about 3.2 litres from memory, so about 25% more) plus it acts as a "buffer" for the system. As I've chosen a pump (on price as this is all lemons dollars cost) that isn't able to run 100% of the time, I've designed the system with a variable delay loop timer (I'm thinking 20 seconds on / 20 seconds off cycles) .and because of the constant on/off cycling the system will work much better with a surge reservoir ahead of the pump. it also adds a very easy fill and level check point, the screw on cap is tight fitting with an O ring seal. Where its mounted the level in the tank will be the level in the trans.

Outlet from the buffer tank / inlet to the pump is -10AN, The original fitting in the tank was a tiny m14 x 1.5 ORB barb, and an -10 to M14 fitting has a tiny thru hole, so I enlarged the hole in the tank and tapped it to M16 x 1.6 which has a 11mm thru hole. (the pump has a 11mm thru hole 3/8 bsp to -10 fitting. Such large fitting and lines are needed on the sucton side of the pump to eliminate resistance to flow.

Outlet from the pump to the cooler is -8AN. Not in the picture (still waiting) are the to 1/2 inch to -8 male compression fittings that will slide over the co0ler tubes and with a compression olive secure to them giving a -8AN male fitting on the tube and the straight -8 female hose ends that will thread over them

The three way junction block and fittings are to distribute the cooled oil back into the transmission, 1 x - 8 line in., 3 x -6 lines out

I'm going to drill / tap 3 x 10 x 1,25 holes right above 3 / 4 and 5 gears to flood them with cooled oil from above, rather than just relying on splash lubrication, the discharge hole in the M10 fittings is just over 3mm and will be the flow restrictor. The system (by calculation) should move about 4 litres a minute of running.
View attachment 41294

hopefully this stops two of the issues these transmissions seem to have when used hard.

3rd gear and 4th gear I have seen sieze the bush to the cluster shaft/inside of the gear, and I've seen 4th and fifth gears competely destroyed. with teeth turned into powdered metal.. both related to lubrication / oil temp issues IMO so this system should (fingers crossed) eliminate these known problems.

The trouble I have is that I have no idea how much heat I need to dissapate from the oil, and no idea (in real terms) what the 14000BTU's of capacity the cooler has "looks" like in terms of degrees of temp dropped per volume of oil, I haven't bothered to work it out... the only real test is testing the car and measuring the oil temps with the sytsem on and off.

If the system doesn't have enough cooling capacity, the option to add a second identical cooler is available.

I could loop them in series, joined with a thermostat to bypass the second cooler if the oils temp is too low (so the oil never gets too cold) as the three way junction/ditribution block has a second inlet at the other end and I already have a suitable thermostat.

SteveC


Steve, per your request I read through this closely.

Hardware is all good. I like the idea of the reservoir. Given the limited capacity of the typical rear differential I typically spec'ed an AFCO remote filler tank. This added about a quart of capacity and significantly reduced the oil's duty cycle. The same idea would work great on the X transmission. If you can go larger on the tank that would be good. You want to reduce the oil's duty cycle as this will reduce operating temps and increase service life.

Operational note: You always want to run warmup laps with the pump off so as to build temperature in the transmission before turning the pump on. But you don't want to forget to turn the pump on. For this reason I always put red indicator lights above switches that illuminated when the switch is "off".

I see you put three returns. One would need to be located above above 5th gear in the extension housing, one that dumps directly onto 4th gear and one that feeds the trough above the gearset. The combination of cooler, volume and direct feed should result is a very reliable transmission.

I would suggest testing Redline MT90 first and see how it performs. Check it for discoloration after each session. It starts out mostly clear and gets darker as it gets heat stressed.
 
Steve, per your request I read through this closely.

Hardware is all good. I like the idea of the reservoir. If you can go larger on the tank that would be good. You want to reduce the oil's duty cycle as this will reduce operating temps and increase service life.

Your constructive critcism always welcome.

I have deleted the small reservoir ahead of the pump, and changed the inlet line to -10 from the trans fitting to the pump, so a 90 and a straight fitting. on the suction side of the pump now, -10 hose.

Instead of the small tank, I'll fit this one...it's actually sold as a breather catch tank, but has an10 welded in female bungs x 3 and an an10 male fitting that they normally attach the filter to.
2 litre reservoir an10 x 4.jpg


I'll spin it upside down, and have what is supposed to be the drain at the top as my fill point, with an ORB hex plug, so sealed for pressure as a remote tank, mounted above the three way junction block.

It means I'll need a check valve on the discharge to stop the tank from emptying into the trans and overfilling everything, but you can buy adjustable check valves so I can set it up to open as soon as any pressure is supplied by the pump, like one of these,
an8 adjustable line check.jpg

and I can discharge from the oil cooler(s) into the two an10 bungs on the side... 2 litres capacity and it's just $60aud including delivery and the adjustable check valves are about $35


SteveC
 
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I'm with you on this one @tonyism7 This thread is a perfect example of a group of specialists getting together over lunch to diagnose a condition that the rest of us GP's can't figure out. I know absolutely nothing about LeMons but I will not pass up another article or thread where it is mentioned.
 
Your constructive critcism always welcome.

I have deleted the small reservoir ahead of the pump, and changed the inlet line to -10 from the trans fitting to the pump, so a 90 and a straight fitting. on the suction side of the pump now, -10 hose.

Instead of the small tank, I'll fit this one...it's actually sold as a breather catch tank, but has an10 welded in female bungs x 3 and an an10 male fitting that they normally attach the filter to.
View attachment 41489

I'll spin it upside down, and have what is supposed to be the drain at the top as my fill point, with an ORB hex plug, so sealed for pressure as a remote tank, mounted above the three way junction block.

It means I'll need a check valve on the discharge to stop the tank from emptying into the trans and overfilling everything, but you can buy adjustable check valves so I can set it up to open as soon as any pressure is supplied by the pump, like one of these,
View attachment 41490

and I can discharge from the oil cooler(s) into the two an10 bungs on the side... 2 litres capacity and it's just $60aud including delivery and the adjustable check valves are about $35


SteveC

Steve, you are most welcome. I love these kind of projects so if there is anything I can assist with please let me know.

Incidentally, great idea on removing the metal targa bar and replacing with fiberglass. That thing is heavy and completely redundant once a roll cage is fitted. Not only lighter but makes fitting the main hoop way easier. On a track car a friend and I built many years ago I decided, after getting frustrated trying to work around the targa bar to install the main hoop, I simply cut it off. The intent was to install the cage then gut the targa bar and re-install the top skin. But after completion, we just left the bar off. Gave the car something of a Barchetta look.
 
Steve C. Can you tell us a little more about the Aluminum carb spacer you have between the carb and the intake manifold? Is there a reason it is so large?

So, we campaigned an X in a similar series called Chump Car, even back in the day when we did run a solid 24hrs through the night as well. Never had an issue with oil temps in the transmission and/or engine. Given your experience with Fiats which is more than me, have you seen where temps for the transmission would require such modifications or is this just to make sure durability is maintained?

Loved racing the car, however, I can tell you that driving at 2am in the morning in pouring rain down a very dark backstretch at Portland International Raceway with rivers of water coming across the road and full throttle is a butt clinching moment! My biggest gripe was hoping to have a bit higher top end, as you spend most of the track catching and finally passing some big block slug, only to have them come by you at 130mph on the straight.

Really enjoying this so far.
 
have you seen where temps for the transmission would require such modifications or is this just to make sure durability is maintained?

Not specifically in an X19, but other cars I've prepared the need for trans/diff /engine oil coolers was made after oil analysis mostly..

As Steve H noted above, if the oil gets heat stressed it usually changes colour, so if you see that the oil has darkened considerably during testing, then an oil cooler is a usually a good idea.

I'm doing this as I've seen / been told about quite a few race prepped x19's with transmission failures over the years... there are plenty of pictures around of lunched gear sets, I'm sure Bernice will show you some if you ask. Plus Steve H thinks it's good insurance against a transmission failure under endurance racing conditions, and I really want to get to the end of the 24 hours.

Originally I had designed this system for my road car, hence the auto trans oil cooler and a thermostat, as it was more about fed lubrication for 3rd /4th and 5th gears for street use, and the cooler (which was planned for in behind the rear grille behind the exhaust) was sized just for track day sprints... when I first asked Steve H about it he suggested the automatic transmission cooler I had already selected for the job.

Now the system is gettig used instead for a track car, so the suggestion of a larger reservoir - which was something I was teetering on upgrading anyway - made the decision easy. I'd tagged the larger tank already on my ebay watchist as a possible for another engine build / job (as an oil tank for a semi dry sump system) they come as 1 and 2 litre sizes and the difference is only a couple of dollars so I supersized.

I've also upgraded the oil cooler I'm going to use on the lemon... I looked online for -8 oil coolers, and some small 10 row coolers came up at $50 each delivered if I bought two...


The small tank /fittings and the transmission type oil cooler will get "recycled" back to the car it was designed for in the first place... I'll buy another pump for that project, hopefully before this lemons raceday so I can have a spare pump sitting in the spares box. (just in case)

Personaly I'm putting in a bit of effort with the build, the guys who are going to have a drive with me are paying good money for their entry fee and tyre / fuel costs, so I'm trying to make sure that something simple doesn't let us down

SteveC
 
Steve C. Can you tell us a little more about the Aluminum carb spacer you have between the carb and the intake manifold? Is there a reason it is so large?

So, we campaigned an X in a similar series called Chump Car, even back in the day when we did run a solid 24hrs through the night as well. Never had an issue with oil temps in the transmission and/or engine. Given your experience with Fiats which is more than me, have you seen where temps for the transmission would require such modifications or is this just to make sure durability is maintained?

Loved racing the car, however, I can tell you that driving at 2am in the morning in pouring rain down a very dark backstretch at Portland International Raceway with rivers of water coming across the road and full throttle is a butt clinching moment! My biggest grip was hoping to have a bit higher top end, as you spend most of the track catching and finally passing some big blog slug, only to have them come by you at 130mph on the straight.

Really enjoying this so far.

Eric,

You're cheating. ;)

Racing at Portland International gives you a 20+ degree F advantage in ambient temperature.

I remember running an event at Sebring one summer. Ambient temperature was 106F. Also, I remember running an event at Roebling Road (Savannah, Georgia) one August afternoon. I did a tire temp check before start and found my tires, before making any laps, were already within the operating temperature window.

Seriously though, per oil temperatures; it takes energy to generate heat and a stock X1/9, or at least a reliable Chump Car build, doesn't make a lot of power, its not going to make a lot of heat. But tune the motor up some and beat on it for 24 hours and you'll heat stress the gear oil enough to cause a failure. Given the nature of these transmissions I wouldn't hesitate to overbuild on the cooling side.
 
Eric,

You're cheating. ;)

Ok, that made me laugh. Thanks to both Steve's for taking the time to reply. Steve C, just make sure to have a lesson on shifting the transmission as in the heat of battle, people tend to ham fist the shifts. Carry a couple of extra shift linkages with you as ours always ended up getting bent by people getting to excited out there. Long distance is all about maintaining the equipment as we know, and precise gentle shifts are a big key. Really looking forward to hearing how it goes.

We need someone to do live updates and pics during this! ;)
 
Will you be running a trans oil temp gauge?

the gauge set I'm building for the car.

20201223_083855.jpg


Top left is trans oil temp, next is a full sweep VDO capillary engine water temperature gauge, a full sweep VDO capillary engine oil pressure gauge, and the right side gauge for engine oil temperature., the three engine gauges have red warning lights, big green button is a pull (illuminated) on switch for ignition, beside it is the starter button. The three beaver tail switches are headlights, wipers (2 position) and interior lights.


I was going to use electrical senders and gauges for the oil temperatures, but re reading the lemons rules they are zero lemons dollars cost, so I'll probably use full sweep VDO mechanical oil temp gauges on the trans and engine oil too.

the three way distribution block for the trans cooler lines, it has 3 x 1.8npt ports on top, and a 1/4npt port at each end. I'll fit the sender into there to measure the temperature of the cooled oil feeding back into the transmission.

SteveC
 
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We have run the rotary LeMons X in over 100 degrees F days, it is BRUTAL on the car's oily bits and drivers. Drivers get a cool suit system or they cannot drive properly in these hot condition. The life and survival of the rotary depends on cooling, if the oil temps go much above 210F, worry begins to set in, if coolant temps go to ~200F more worries set in. The Porsche 901 transaxle comes in SO hot, you cannot touch it. All the mechanical parts are SO hot you've got to be very careful wrenching on anything as the risk of getting burned is absolute. This is just the beginning, Brakes are over roasted and more..

Endurance racing in the heat stresses stuff in ways that cannot be understood until you're trying to deal with it.

Mazda rotaries cooling is just over 50% oil and residual coolant with some tiny % of heat dispersion emitted from the exterior of the rotary. We ended up with a NASCAR surplus oil cooler mounted to the engine cover to cool the rotary. Current set up has a complete different cooling set up that is much improved from the this set up. Stock exxe can never produce nearly as much heat as a 200+ Bhp rotary.
LeMons Roto X oil cooler.JPG

Part of the Hazet tool cart is visible... with bottled water.

~Excessive cooling capacity is GOOD. It is FAR easier to block off cooling vents than to try adding cooling when all is TOO HOT.


Bernice

So, we campaigned an X in a similar series called Chump Car, even back in the day when we did run a solid 24hrs through the night as well. Never had an issue with oil temps in the transmission and/or engine. Given your experience with Fiats which is more than me, have you seen where temps for the transmission would require such modifications or is this just to make sure durability is maintained?
 
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Bernice,
did you measure trans oil temps when you were using the X1/9 transmission in Lemons racing?
Did you use a trans cooler?
 
Bernice,
did you measure trans oil temps when you were using the X1/9 transmission in Lemons racing?
Did you use a trans cooler?

I'm pretty sure they lunched at least one transmission in their lemons campaign with the sohc engine in the car.

Ralf has done fifth on his NBR flyer... fifth isn't very well lubricated IMO as standard, and direct feeding oil into the fifth extension can't help but improve temps of the gear/bearing

this transmission oil cooler setup (add in an oil thermostat between the pump and cooler) is the exaxct one I originaly designed for my 1978 S1 lightweight build, and that will be 1900 SOHC powered
20210115_121000.jpg
my first thought was "where is the extra heat generated by all that extra torque going to go?"

.... plus I want fourth / fifth to not die...

just in case you missed it, I first raised this idea to Steve H on the forum in this thread when he was talking automatic trans coolers off topic...

SteveC
 
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Not measured transaxle temps, but should at some point. Good to know just how HOT they run.

One catastrophic failure of the stock 5speed. 4th gear with a tuned-up Lampredi SOHC dyne'ed at 105-110 Whp (did not even burp).
x1:9 transaxle gear failure.jpg


Other transaxles issues, since they were taken apart after each race back then. Dead syncros & sliders, discolored sleeve bearings,
gears not looking too good. The questionable parts were replaced for the next LeMons race, fresh fill with MT-90. This is why there
is a pile of 5speed transaxle parts here. Then the Mazda rotary with the Porsche 901 (different set of problems), now moving on to a Hewland as used in Formula Mazda.

IMO, anything that can be done to keep the oil in it's operating temps is GOOD. Endurance racing in a HOT environment adds a LOT more stress on all parts involved including the drivers.


Bernice

I'm pretty sure they lunched at least one transmission in their lemons campaign with the sohc engine in the car.
 
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