Scuderia Ferric Oxide


Steve Cecchele
If you are leaving the fuel tank where it is, then do me a favor, Put a piece of kevlar or something between the transmission and the tank. I remember seeing a post from Steve H on this as well. Just some extra prevention in case something goes wrong and you have clutch and metal pieces flying around behind you.

I am really excited to see how this turns out!
a scatter shield was always one of the pieces of safety equipment being fitted... standing up in the background is the sump guard from my 128 rally car from many years ago... I knew the time would come to recycle it (or pieces of it) onto another race car one day.




Bernice Loui
A few reasons,

I can't see any advantage to change it for this build, I don't need more capacity as 40 litres is the max amount of fuel you can have at one fill up.

and I kinda feel Marcello took a lot of time / effort to package the fuel tank where he did, and I don't think I can get a tank of the same capacity to package up front as well.

plus, although it's not currently a requirement in lemons to have a fire supression system, it will probably happen and this way all the flammable stuff is in one place.


Better check LeMons regs on the on-board fire system. It is now required for LeMons racing in the USA.

Fuel cell is a really good idea.



Steve Cecchele
Better check LeMons regs on the on-board fire system. It is now required for LeMons racing in the USA.

Fuel cell is a really good idea.

On board fire supression not yet required for lemons in my part of the world, minimum requirement is a 1kg hand held in reach of the seated / strapped in driver. (all my road cars have this already so that was a given anyway)

it's just packaging for the tank, it really is in the best place already IMO. I'm fitting a roll over vent valve / fuel return from the carb, and the clear breather from the 2l litre alloy fuel surge tank into AN fittings, all three into an alloy plate that bolts where the original fuel sender / pickup is on the tank

The standard tank already has good roll over anti siphon venting, a conbination of those two lines and the (roll over) vent valve, plus where and how the tank (and my whole fuel system) is mounted make it pretty safe in any sort of incident IMO



Steve Cecchele
Engine mountings. making sure everything stays put.

The top engne torque rod is "solid" bushed with two urethane bushes

I use a superpro SPF020 bush.

While totally crap for their intended application as a suspension bush in a 124 / 131 (they are an EXACT copy of the rubber original, so when the OE steel sleeve is press thru the bush effectively locks solid) they work great as a replacement "dog-bone" bush for a 128 / X19

Take to the edges of the SPF020 with a hand held grinder (I mount mine in a vice, I don't like to use my bench grinder for plastics/alloys) a bit like this, it's not rocket science, just so it goes in a little easier.

To get the old bush out of the torque rod, press out the centre steel sleeve, make sure you clean the old sleeve p they are usually a bit rusty

simply by hand slip one end of the slightly modified SPF020 bush into the torque rod end, it should be a snug push thru the hole... I usually run a hand file around the inside of the steel bush ID to make sure there are no rough edges... and rubber grease is always a good thing.

next step I actually forgot to take a pic of, but it makes the job much much easier... slip the inner steel sleeve into the urethane this pic it would be in from the right hand side... but ONLY PUT IT IN ABOUT 1/3 OF THE WAY....then put the whole lot into the vice again with some appropriate sockets and give it a squeeze to push the bush home, and then to push the sleeve thru the bush

after a bit of jiggling, you'll get the bush is actually a tiny bit too wide, so take to it again to trim it for length with the angle grinder...

I've done this a few times so it took maybe 20 minutes from start to finish including stopping and picking up my phone to take the pics to do each bush., with two urethane bushes installed

Front engine mount upgrade.

I use a bush from some Alfa romeo that I had a few of in a job lot of parts I bought. the other parts with it are needed for the "conversion" they are a cople of seat belt spacers, and an M12 bolt to replace the standard M10

You remove the old worn out rubber from the mount, there are two types too, one I think must be for late model air conditioned cars, it's just a minor relief to the casting for some extra clearance for something.

the alfa bush is a little smaller in OD, but if you leave the original outer steel sleeve in, it's a snug press in fit


I drill the seat belt bush to 12mm ID. on the smaller stepit's 14mm OD. I trim it down for length, I drill the centre steel sleeve on the rubber bush to 14mm but only do a depth of maybe 10mm, and then press the stepped bush into place which sits snugly in the standard engine cradle. You need to drill the body to M12 hole size

engine cross member modifications

Still a work in progress but my usual"go -to" mod for a 128 in the past has been to add additional fasteners and plates. Handy size is the captive nut / spacer plate from the shifter linkage on an X19/128. Lower cross member gets reinforced a little, jack lift poibt removed as I dont want it to be used for that, (I dont want someone putting a jack cradle thru some component.).

Lower engine mount for the monment is standard original Fiat part. I have some old OE parts that I've removed the rubber from and may cast in urethane. Twice as many fasteners, in two different planes makes for it never falling out or coming loose... can be a bit of a jiggle to get it all to line up to start with as well.

I thought I had a 128 cross member in my workshop to take pictures of and compare to this X19 one, but it's dark outside so I'll find it to show everyone the differences in the next few days.

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Steve Cecchele
This afternoon I drilled a few 3/8 holes, and fitted some M8 nutserts from the el cheapo $22aud delivered alloy nutsert kit I bought online to mount some of the lighter components. It worked suprisingly well

The empty spare wheel well has started to look busy.




Steve Cecchele
I lifted the lemon chassis up onto a steel frame this morning. It was just sitting on the ground on some old tyres, but the time has come to have access underneath and have the chassis level and square.
A quick view of my workspace, I don't want to be grinding / welding / painting inside my shed, and the extension isn't finished yet, so this my solution.

In the background you can see a "donor" car.

Regata 85s, purchased recently, not registered and it wasn't running (but it does now) it's not specifically for ths project as I allready have all the parts from another of the same, but this is just to show how a chunk of parts can come from another model. This one has dealer fitted air conditioning too, so gets the huge radiator same as I'm using in the lemon, same electronic ignition, same 5 speed tripode inner axle transmission, etc etc...

this was $350 for a complete car, I was in the right place at the right time...

It's a 1300 block and four speed sitting in there now so I can fabricate the exhaust front pipes I want to make. So before I take all the "race car" parts off again, a few progress pictures showing the layout of some of the parts

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