Should I worry that there is a crimp in this red air tube?

Not really necessary to change the belt cover, although leaving the old cover in place does make it very obvious that a belt has been removed.
True.

The cover is mainly there to ensure that something dropped or kicked up doesn’t come between one of the cogged wheels and belt breaking it. I have seen where that has happened.

I know we have lower covers to try to keep things out of the bay.

Ooops, I wonder where that 10mm nut went…oh well, here’s another one. What could go wrong?
 
My air

Hopefully, the skinny air pump belt goes first!

I've seen those air pumps go bad when somebody disables the system by just removing the belt. The hot exhaust gases back up through what Fiat calls "the non return valve" and trashes the pump. Removing the plumbing and plugging the air injection ports (M12x1.25) is the way to go and removing the pump probably saves about 10 pounds.
Thanks. As I do my best to start to understand all the tubes, filters and pumps in the engine compartment, the opportunity to simplify without creating problems seems attractive.

Yesterday evening I was trying to understand all the tubes from the fuel tank to the carburetor and exhaust. I looked at photos of other ‘74s. It became obvious that over 48 years not every engine compartment looks like the photos in the Fiat shop manual. My education continues…
 
Yesterday evening I was trying to understand all the tubes from the fuel tank to the carburetor and exhaust. I looked at photos of other ‘74s. It became obvious that over 48 years not every engine compartment looks like the photos in the Fiat shop manual.
People do take this stuff off...
The basic fuel tank plumbing is a fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump (doohickey bolted to the the engine block, right next to the oil filter, it is driven by a pushrod and a shaft inside the engine), then through the fuel filter to the carb. Then there's a second line from the carb straight back to the tank. This keeps fuel continuously circulating to prevent vapor lock. You need this to be working properly, and it's not a bad idea to replace the fuel lines if you don't know when this was last done - they can rot from the inside, shedding little specks of rubber that clog the internal passages of the carb and make you do that jets-out/carb-cleaner thing again.... and again... and again.

Everything else will only make sense if you're looking at the "Fuel evaporative emission system" page in the shop manual, it's page 55 in my copy.
All of the thinner tubes just open into the top of the tank to let air in and out of the tank - the tank venting system. The criss-cross tubes on the firewall right above the tank connect these to two liquid-vapor separators about the size of a spool of thread; these are designed to catch any condensation and drain it back into the tank while letting air and fuel vapors flow out to the three-way valve, a plastic blocky thing bolted above the driver-side wheel well.
This three-way valve lets air into the system when the pressure in the tank is lower than ambient. This is the essential "tank vent" function that we've mentioned above; if the pump keeps taking fuel out of the tank and no air comes in to replace, eventually a vacuum will develop inside the tank, the pump won't be able to pull fuel against the vacuum, and the tank may even collapse like a vacuum-wrap plastic bag. The three way valve also routes vapor from the tank to the charcoal canister whenever the pressure in the tank is greater than ambient; this stops fuel vapors from getting into the air. And the third function of this valve is as an ordinary safety valve - if for some reason the pressure in the tank is excessive and the flow through the charcoal canister isn't enough to relieve it, the valve will release the excess pressure to the atmosphere.

The charcoal canister is a cylinder bolted to the rear firewall near the expansion tank. There's a tube from the three-way valve so that the canister can capture fuel vapor from the tank, and another tube from the carb float bowl to catch those vapors. A hose from the exhaust manifold heat shield brings hot air to the canister; this cooks off the fuel captured by the charcoal and sends the vapor via a fourth hose to a vacuum port at the base of the carb so that it can be burned.

As long as air can get into the tank as fuel leaves none of this stuff needs to be working, and it's not present in the European models of the same vintage. However, if it is working there's no reason not to keep it that way - no one likes the smell of gas in their garage.
 
I know we have lower covers to try to keep things out of the bay.

Ooops, I wonder where that 10mm nut went…oh well, here’s another one. What could go wrong?
I have a story about that on a 2001 VW GTI and an errant dealer mechanic who dropped a valve cover bolt which parked itself between the belt and the lower timing belt cover destroying the belt...
 
I have a story about that on a 2001 VW GTI and an errant dealer mechanic who dropped a valve cover bolt which parked itself between the belt and the lower timing belt cover destroying the belt...
Many years ago, ferrarichat.com had a long thread running about a 308 GT/4 that caught an NYC subway token.... bounced up off the road at a tollbooth and ended up between a timing belt and sprocket. ("a" belt because the three-liter Ferrari V8 motor has two belts and sprockets, one for each bank). The motor was of course destroyed.... but because of the particular circumstances the owner's comprehensive policy treated it as a road hazard accident and paid for the replacement.
 
I had noted from previous advice the importance of checking the tank venting. I bought the Haynes manual but it is unclear to me what am I checking for?
If you leave the gas cap loose and your problem goes away, the tank isn't venting properly. I'd bet fairly long odds against that being the problem but it's so easy to check that it's silly not to do it first.
 
People do take this stuff off...
The basic fuel tank plumbing is a fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump (doohickey bolted to the the engine block, right next to the oil filter, it is driven by a pushrod and a shaft inside the engine), then through the fuel filter to the carb. Then there's a second line from the carb straight back to the tank. This keeps fuel continuously circulating to prevent vapor lock. You need this to be working properly, and it's not a bad idea to replace the fuel lines if you don't know when this was last done - they can rot from the inside, shedding little specks of rubber that clog the internal passages of the carb and make you do that jets-out/carb-cleaner thing again.... and again... and again.

Everything else will only make sense if you're looking at the "Fuel evaporative emission system" page in the shop manual, it's page 55 in my copy.
All of the thinner tubes just open into the top of the tank to let air in and out of the tank - the tank venting system. The criss-cross tubes on the firewall right above the tank connect these to two liquid-vapor separators about the size of a spool of thread; these are designed to catch any condensation and drain it back into the tank while letting air and fuel vapors flow out to the three-way valve, a plastic blocky thing bolted above the driver-side wheel well.
This three-way valve lets air into the system when the pressure in the tank is lower than ambient. This is the essential "tank vent" function that we've mentioned above; if the pump keeps taking fuel out of the tank and no air comes in to replace, eventually a vacuum will develop inside the tank, the pump won't be able to pull fuel against the vacuum, and the tank may even collapse like a vacuum-wrap plastic bag. The three way valve also routes vapor from the tank to the charcoal canister whenever the pressure in the tank is greater than ambient; this stops fuel vapors from getting into the air. And the third function of this valve is as an ordinary safety valve - if for some reason the pressure in the tank is excessive and the flow through the charcoal canister isn't enough to relieve it, the valve will release the excess pressure to the atmosphere.

The charcoal canister is a cylinder bolted to the rear firewall near the expansion tank. There's a tube from the three-way valve so that the canister can capture fuel vapor from the tank, and another tube from the carb float bowl to catch those vapors. A hose from the exhaust manifold heat shield brings hot air to the canister; this cooks off the fuel captured by the charcoal and sends the vapor via a fourth hose to a vacuum port at the base of the carb so that it can be burned.

As long as air can get into the tank as fuel leaves none of this stuff needs to be working, and it's not present in the European models of the same vintage. However, if it is working there's no reason not to keep it that way - no one likes the smell of gas in their garage.
Thanks. Using your descriptions above I think I have traced the flow through the system.
 
If you leave the gas cap loose and your problem goes away, the tank isn't venting properly. I'd bet fairly long odds against that being the problem but it's so easy to check that it's silly not to do it first.
Thanks. Tomorrow I am taking her for her first 30 mile drive since replacing fuel and air filters and cleaning the carb jets. If I lose power as I did last time, will try the loose gas cap solution.
 
Thanks. Tomorrow I am taking her for her first 30 mile drive since replacing fuel and air filters and cleaning the carb jets. If I lose power as I did last time, will try the loose gas cap solution.
And if that doesn't help, go through the carb jet stuff again, right on the side of the road after the car starts misbehaving. You may have to repeat periodically until you've run several full tanks of clean gas through the car - which is a good thing, a reason to drive it more.
 
And if that doesn't help, go through the carb jet stuff again, right on the side of the road after the car starts misbehaving. You may have to repeat periodically until you've run several full tanks of clean gas through the car - which is a good thing, a reason to drive it more.
Thank you for the encouragement. Unfortunately I got 100 yards then it stalled out. I tried the suggestion of removing the gas cap and got her back home. I’m having it transported to professionals. I did my best with everyone’s help on this forum.
 
Bummer. Good luck. Did anybody suggest fuel pump? Ah well, let's hope the pros you use are pros!the electric fuel pump looks to be a relatively new addition so I did not focus on that. I will share next week what my mechanic discovers.
 
Either problem with the fuel pump or - much more likely - you got the carb cleared out but once the fuel in the bowl was used up you got another load of crud from a a fuel system full of bad gas.
I admit I did not have the patience to run through a tank or two of gas then clean the jets again.
 
I admit I did not have the patience to run through a tank or two of gas then clean the jets again.
I would check the fuel filter first to determine if the crud is coming from the tank. If you don't already have one, I'd recommend a pre-filter ahead of the pump.

If it is coming from the tank, it will need a cleaning. I wasted a bunch of time trying to clean the tank without removing it and was not satisfied with the results. I finally removed it which turned out to be very quick - a small fraction of the time I had been screwing around with it in the car. I wanted to avoid using any more solvents or weird stuff than necessary so I did a little research on the subject. I found that the motorcycle guys were making big claims about using Oxi-Clean. They like it because it does not harm their custom paint jobs on the tanks. I decided to try it and used twice the recommended amount on the box, filled the tank with hot water, and let it sit overnight. It pretty much took off everything, including big brown deposits that I thought were rust (but were not). After the cleaning, I found that the inside of the tank appeared to have some sort of clear coating which would let water bead up up on it without generating any signs of rust.
 
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