Side Motor Mount Replacement- Help

[Mike C]

I need to replace my side motor mount in my X1/9. I haven’t done it in years. Before I start, does anyone have any recommendations or tips to get this done easily?

Thanks!!!

 

[Rodger]

Support that side of the engine with a jack to take the load off of the mount. Since you have to take the tension off of the timing belt, it’s a good time to replace it if it has been a while. Supposedly, they are to be changed if you take the tension off. Consider changing the other belts as well while you are in there. Watch out for a coolant leak when you undo the timing belt tensioner nut. Sometimes, the stud comes loose instead of the nut and that stud goes into an open hole to the coolant jacket.

 

[Rupunzell]

There is a M10 screw with a 17mm hex head inside the casting of the side engine mount. Be prepared with a short box wrench or very short socket and wrenching attachment to access and remove loosen this screw. The side mount can be removed with this screw in place as there might not be enough working clearance to take it out. The other two screws that hold the side mount in place are not too difficult to remove, this screw inside the casting is always "FUN" to deal with.

It might help for future accessories and servicing of the side engine mount to replace the OEM 17mm hex head screw with a JIS M10 screw with a 14mm flange head screw. This will reduce the tool size required for removal and tightening. ANSI spec hex head for M10 is 16mm, an alternative to the 14mm hex JIS. The ANSI 16mm hex head is slightly better than the OEM 17mm hex head.


Bernice

 

[myronx19]

Actually - you don't need to remove tension off the timing belt - the tensioner bearing is tight, so the spring in the snail mount isn't doing anything anymore. The spring that's in the Snail Mount only serves its function during installation of the timing belt (and was probably originally designed as an assembly aid for engine assembly/production).

What I do is (for removal)

- I pull back the spring and zip tie it back, this way it's not loading up against the tensioner bearing. This makes removal/installation a little easier. This is easier to do on a late model car with a removable trunk panel, as it takes a little bit of "umphh" to pull back on the spring (you're putting it into compression). Sometimes the spring is missing -

- The lower two bolts aren't too bad to access - the top one isn't easy - I use an offset 17mm boxed wrench, but it takes a while to get it out. If I recall, I used a 17mm gear wrench on the lower two. You can use the new mount to get a sense of the limited space you're working in - and you'll need to support the motor of course. I remove the through bolt first, lift the engine up a bit (a jack under the pan with some wood - not the best, but can work, or use a cross bar from up top - whatever you have, and make sure it's safe! - pinching your hand in there would suck).

If I recall correctly, the mount uses dowels - so it's easy to position - but I can't recall if that's actually correct or not.


What year is your car? If you have a 79-up, then you can remove the trunk access panel - makes life a bit easier!

 

[EricH]

If I recall correctly, the mount uses dowels - so it's easy to position - but I can't recall if that's actually correct or not.

No dowels on my '74s.... but that proves nothing except that about 83 bazillion serviceability improvements were introduced in the years since then.

 

[myronx19]

No dowels on my '74s.

You're right - I was looking at photos of the mounts, and I don't see any dowel holes. I'm wrong on that!


These photos might be useful for Mike - https://xwebforums.com/wiki/index.php/StaticTiming I don't have AC, so access is a little easier to the mount.


Stole this pic from Vickauto: http://www.vickauto.com/newstore/in...ucts_id=2927&zenid=vfk49utqtsfckra0aq964hjua2

You can see the top bolt is a little tricky - not much room to swing a wrench, this is where I used an offset wrench. Tiring, but it worked

And here is where I pull back on the spring and put in a zip tie to remove the load on the tensioner bearing bracket. The zip tie prevents the spring from going back.


Borrowed this pic from the Static Timing Wiki

 

[Mike C]

There is a M10 screw with a 17mm hex head inside the casting of the side engine mount. Be prepared with a short box wrench or very short socket and wrenching attachment to access and remove loosen this screw. The side mount can be removed with this screw in place as there might not be enough working clearance to take it out. The other two screws that hold the side mount in place are not too difficult to remove, this screw inside the casting is always "FUN" to deal with.

It might help for future accessories and servicing of the side engine mount to replace the OEM 17mm hex head screw with a JIS M10 screw with a 14mm flange head screw. This will reduce the tool size required for removal and tightening. ANSI spec hex head for M10 is 16mm, an alternative to the 14mm hex JIS. The ANSI 16mm hex head is slightly better than the OEM 17mm hex head.


Bernice

Hi Bernice,

Thank you so much for your advice! Now I remember what was hard about that mount. It was the casting screw. I did many years ago so I do it again...this time with the right tools. I’m going to take your advice and replace it with a 14mm for future replacements.

Thanks again,

Mike C

 

[Mike C]

Actually - you don't need to remove tension off the timing belt - the tensioner bearing is tight, so the spring in the snail mount isn't doing anything anymore. The spring that's in the Snail Mount only serves its function during installation of the timing belt (and was probably originally designed as an assembly aid for engine assembly/production).

What I do is (for removal)

- I pull back the spring and zip tie it back, this way it's not loading up against the tensioner bearing. This makes removal/installation a little easier. This is easier to do on a late model car with a removable trunk panel, as it takes a little bit of "umphh" to pull back on the spring (you're putting it into compression). Sometimes the spring is missing -

- The lower two bolts aren't too bad to access - the top one isn't easy - I use an offset 17mm boxed wrench, but it takes a while to get it out. If I recall, I used a 17mm gear wrench on the lower two. You can use the new mount to get a sense of the limited space you're working in - and you'll need to support the motor of course. I remove the through bolt first, lift the engine up a bit (a jack under the pan with some wood - not the best, but can work, or use a cross bar from up top - whatever you have, and make sure it's safe! - pinching your hand in there would suck).

If I recall correctly, the mount uses dowels - so it's easy to position - but I can't recall if that's actually correct or not.


What year is your car? If you have a 79-up, then you can remove the trunk access panel - makes life a bit easier!

 

[Mike C]

Thank you All for your help.

I remember now that the center casting screw was the difficult one.

I’m going to replace it with an M10 14mm for future thanks to Bernice’s advise.

Mike C