Stiff and sticky clutch

D

DSpieg

True Classic
The clutch action on my 850 Spider has always (in the 7 years I've had the car) been heavy, but recently it's gotten even worse and the pedal doesn't return all the way up after being depressed and released. As a temporary band-aid I've attached a bungee cord between the pedal arm and the underside of the dash to bring the pedal back up, but I'm trying to analyze what the cause might be until I can actually find some time to dig into the problem.

One thought I had was broken clutch release lever - I can recall some cars where one of the 'ears' on the release lever tended to break; the clutch would still operate on the remaining ear but the action would be heavy. I'm also thinking the clutch cable sheath might be damaged somewhere along the way causing the cable to bind inside of it, or maybe it's snagged where it goes through the bulkhead in the tunnel with all the holes in it (mine is not in great shape).

Anyone have a similar problem?
 
If it does turn out to be a bad clutch cable. Add a ground wire when you replace it..... (for that matter add a ground wire anyway) cheap insurance!!

(what happens is the clutch cable get used as a ground and you get arcing inside the cable causing it to get corrosion and bind up).

(this is coming from general Car stuff I don't know much about the 850 spider) but I have seen clutch cables do this (and shift cables on GM's with the floor shifter)
 
I would tend towards the frayed cable or some other binding issue along they path.

The pedal pivot could be significantly bound up as an alternative, does it squeal/groan in addition to being difficult to actuate?

I would start by disconnecting the end from the clutch lever at the transmission. Verify it is either easy or continues to be hard to depress. Assuming it is still difficult I would diconnect the cable nearest the pedal and actuate the pedal. Depending on what is creating the issue this could be a fun repair and when I say fun I mean it will be nothing of the sort.
 
I would have a look at the rear bulkhead where the cable enters the tunnel. Probably need to make a more stable bracket to hold the cable. Most cars have the cable end fail and end up in the tunnel.
 
Go order a new clutch cable and when it arrives, lube it before installation. I have had many a hard 124 spider clutch resolved by replacing the cable. If it turns out that's not it, at least you will know you have a new cable installed and you smartly went with the easiest fix first.

Dave, no one is going to let you go on DCfiats drives in that car if they find out you have a bungee cord clutch pedal assist spring!
 
Thanks everyone, excellent advice all-around, so now: How can I get a full day to myself without other obligations so I can work on the car? :)
Grazie mille y'all (as they say in the Deep Italian South)
 
Dave, the answer to that question was to go back in the time machine and do not get married and have kids. If you can't book that flight then just do what I did and wait 10 to 15 years till the girls are out of college and doing their own life.
 
This is how I overcome the cable attachment bulkhead problem. I would suggest a new cable. ensure the bulkhead can retain the cover and ensure the front pivot point is not bent. It's possible to make a bracket with a bolt to go right through the tunnel to support this pivot point.
 
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