Temp gauge rising

Discussion in 'Discussion Forum' started by Mike Schofield, May 1, 2018.

  1. Mike Schofield

    Mike Schofield Daily Driver

    I’m new to the xweb so forgive me if this thread has already been talked about.
    Anyhow, as some may know, I just picked up my 82 x a couple weeks ago. Currently
    It does not have the injector cooler in it but Tony K has generously said he’ll donate one that he has for it.
    The question is, today when I was out driving it around I noticed that a few times the temp gauge rose to about three quarters. I was only out for about a half hour.
    Would the injector pump help this condition?
    What are some of the mods people have done to help with the cooling of their x?
     
  2. JimD

    JimD Waiting for Godot... Moderator

    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    The injector fan only runs when the engine is off. It is intended to cool the injectors after the engine shuts down and is throwing off the heat it built up on the drive. So, no, the injector fan won't affect running temps.

    If you let the car idle, does the radiator fan come on? If not, check out the wiring, fuses and relays in that circuit.

    Check the coolant level in the reservoir tank, the tank should be about 2/3 full when cool. Once that is checked, you should try bleeding the cooling system using the radiators bleed valve. The valve is accessed thru the frunk up near the nose on the driver's side. IIRC you need an 8MM hex turn work the valve. There is an access hole that you can't see too well, but it is there.
    X_rad_bleed_location.JPG
    Gently try to open the valve. If there is air in the system you should hear if coming out prior to coolant dripping out. If the rad is full with no air trapped, coolant will drip out right away.

    It could be that you need a new radiator.
     
  3. Mike Schofield

    Mike Schofield Daily Driver

    Thanks for the reply, I will listen for the fan.
    I’m not sure if I recall it turning on.
    The reservoir is about halfway so maybe a little low.
    Will reply with my findings.
     
  4. dragonsgate

    dragonsgate True Classic

    Location:
    arkansas
    Timing can effect engine temp.
     
  5. Rod Midkiff

    Rod Midkiff True Classic

    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    I have changed some wires and now have an indicator on the dash for when the fans are on. I like knowing. (also an override switch is a good idea).

    Our little cars are sensitive to overheating so the sooner fixed the better.
     
  6. Hybridfiat

    Hybridfiat Power costs money, more p

    Location:
    Australia
    I got a new radiator core.
    Cost a fortune but it doesn't even need fans to run cool.
    I live in Western Australia.
    Bite the bullet and get a new core.
     
  7. Dan Sarandrea (Phila)

    Dan Sarandrea (Phila) Waitin' On Parts...

    Location:
    Philadelphia, PA
    Jay has two cars a lot like our X1/9s, same designer, same coachbuilder. Follow his advice starting at about 3:55 in this video.

     
    aarpcard likes this.
  8. Waterbury

    Waterbury True Classic

    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Any chance you can recall exactly how you did it? Sounds like a great little mod I could use.
     
  9. Rod Midkiff

    Rod Midkiff True Classic

    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    The light was easy found the wire from the fuse box that goes out to the fans. Added a tire there and brought that to the dash light (top right) As luck would have it you can swap the wire for the other side of that light from power to ground.

    I can take some pictures of another cluster if needed of where to tap in.

    As long as you are there adding a toggle switch to ground the relay that turn's the fan's on (this will give you a fan override switch)
     
  10. Mike Schofield

    Mike Schofield Daily Driver

    JimD...
    When bleeding the rad, should the car be running? Up to temp? What’s the procedure?
    Was talking to Tony K and he also thought there would be air in the system.
    And when thinking about this further, it started to run hotter when in fifth (low rpm).
    But would cool down when revved higher. (Pushing coolant through the system)
    Love the override switch as well.
    Can you post pictures? This sounds like a really great idea to gain a little more control.
     
  11. JimD

    JimD Waiting for Godot... Moderator

    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    Your first "test bleed" can be done with the engine off and the cap off the res. Coolant will flow since the res is higher and any air will be chased by the coolant. Be sure to have 2/3 full res and don't let it get empty. Operate the bleed valve and listen for air. Close the valve when coolant runs out.

    Once your test is finished. I recommend starting the car and open the heater valve so the whole system is flowing. Give it a few minutes then check the bleed valve for air again.

    So it heats up on the highway in fifth and cools down in lower gears? You may ned a new rad. Been there with those exact symptoms. Played with bleeding, hoses, etc. Nothing solved the overheating till I got a new rad. Get an aluminum rad if you need a new one.
     
  12. JDExSquid

    JDExSquid Not quite a Daily Driver!

    Location:
    Stockbridge, GA
    I have a stainless coolant tank and found out I needed to fill it significantly more than I thought. Don't be afraid to overfill as the cooing system will push out what it doesn't need.
     
  13. Kevin Cozzo

    Kevin Cozzo True Classic

    Location:
    dallas tx
    These cars have so many hose connections, you should really attend to them all if you keep getting air in the system...even very small leaks will let air in constantly. Not like most other vehicles which sometimes can tolerate slight pressure loss. Sometimes a tiny leak will allow just enough pressure loss to make the car keep getting hotter and hotter, causing boil over, then the radiator cap will dump coolant, and since they don't have a recovery tank, your coolant mysteriously disappears. Sometimes old hoses may seem fine, but the rubber gets hard, and no matter how much you tighten the clamp
    only thing I would add to Jims description of bleeding would be to park it uphill a little. Good luck with your frustration, we've all been there
     
  14. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    If it is "engine RPM" dependent more than "vehicle speed" dependent, then it might be the water pump.

    If you bleed it when hot, do not remove the reservoir cap. Just loosen the bleeder screw until a little coolant starts running down on the ground. Might be safest to wear a glove in case any steam happens to hit your hand (it won't unless you accidentally remove the bleed screw completely). For some reason mine requires the bleed screw to be turned several times before it opens enough for any air to come out. Then close it back up, let everything completely cool, and recheck you coolant level in the reservoir (then you can open the cap).
     
  15. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Since the car is new to you, you really need to have the entire system completely inspected; visual for external hose condition, drive belt, radiator, etc., and then would behove you to flush & refill with correct ratio coolant/water - checking what is removed for evidence of rust, etc.

    Since engine running condition (timing, etc) will also impact coolant temp, all the basics should be checked also. Basically what one would call a "Stage Zero" so that you know you have a solid baseline.

    If this has already been performed, or some of it, list what the PO did prior to your purchase.
     
    kmead likes this.
  16. Mike Schofield

    Mike Schofield Daily Driver

    Still having issues with running hot after several bleeds.
    Had to replace the bleed screw gasket as the original one disintegrated. I have since bled the rad with engine cold and cap off. Ran the car up to temp with the heater going and still had fluctuations in temp although the swings were less. I then bled again with the car off and at temp. Every time I’ve bled the system I have not heard an audible “hiss” of air. Just dripping coolant. I will take the car out again in the next couple days and see if the bleeding has done anything. This girl had been sitting for a very long time and was not driven. It was garage kept and very well babied but not driven. At this point I have a few suspects. 1. The rad itself. 2. The hoses. 3. Just need to keep driving her and bleeding the system.
    I’m hoping to pick up a new rad at FFO18 as I’m thinking that is the culprit and will be a worthwhile upgrade.
     
  17. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Location:
    Michigan
    A long drive with a bad radiator

    Try bleeding the radiator with the nose high, fans and engine running. That is my technique, others may differ.
     
  18. JimD

    JimD Waiting for Godot... Moderator

    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    My money is on the rad at this point. Not too hard to replace in a parking lot either. I have seen a few of projects going on in the parking lot at FFO. Bring tool or make sure you know someone that brings tools. TonyK probably brings his lathe. ;)
     
    mkmini likes this.
  19. kmead

    kmead True Classic

    Location:
    Michigan
    Jim, I suspect you are right that his issue is more with his radiator.

    Mike, why wait until FFO to do this? Leave a day early, stop in Columbus and have it done by a pro at MWB.

    Or just bite the bullet and have a radiator delivered to your home? I know tax is painful but a car that is not usable is a much higher cost, ask me how I know as I have an X that looks very nice (not as nice as yours) but is not drivable. Working on that by applying money.
     
  20. Mike Schofield

    Mike Schofield Daily Driver

    I’ve been browsing new rads. I’ve seen one aluminum one from vikauto.
    I think Midwest bayless has one too.
    Any recommendations?
    Anyone used these units?
     

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