Timing Keeps Slipping

Now, ordering a 38mm socket and waiting for it to arrive.
Thanks for helping me sort things out.
Mike
 
View attachment 24280 View attachment 24281 This is route I took the hose. Makes total sense...
Mike
Well, almost! :) The L bracket does not go under that cam cover stud.

It goes under the head of the 10mm capscrew that secures the yellow plastic cam belt cover to its metal backing plate, top right corner, so that the plastic horseshoes point skyward and the horizontal leg of the L aims back over the head.

The three horseshoe shaped grippies support the dist vac advance hose, the cable that goes from the alt to the starter (charging cable), and on A/C cars, the vac hose that goes from the side of the plenum to the vac storage "bottle" that hides (IIRC) in the spare tire compartment.

With the vac advance hooked up, you should see smoother running (due to no more ported vacuum leak) and better response since the distributor will now have a working vacuum advance!
 
Tavalin, you may not have to take the crank pully off to change the timing belt. I was able to just slip mine on by removing the lower tin as Dan recommended in a much earlier post. Even with a 38mm it's beeotch getting it loose without an impact. Then you have the same problem again only in reverse when you go to putting it back together.
 

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Well, almost! :) The L bracket does not go under that cam cover stud.

It goes under the head of the 10mm capscrew that secures the yellow plastic cam belt cover to its metal backing plate, top right corner, so that the plastic horseshoes point skyward and the horizontal leg of the L aims back over the head.

The three horseshoe shaped grippies support the dist vac advance hose, the cable that goes from the alt to the starter (charging cable), and on A/C cars, the vac hose that goes from the side of the plenum to the vac storage "bottle" that hides (IIRC) in the spare tire compartment.

With the vac advance hooked up, you should see smoother running (due to no more ported vacuum leak) and better response since the distributor will now have a working vacuum advance!
Dan,
I am a former US Marine Staff Sergeant. Please, include crayon pictures. I got very confused at what L-Bracket you are talking about.
Funny, it was a pic about something totally different I sent to Matt when he discovered that my distributor was 180 degrees out hence the timing being 180 out as well. Pics are worth a thousand words or is it dollars. I forget.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Tavalin, you may not have to take the crank pully off to change the timing belt. I was able to just slip mine on by removing the lower tin as Dan recommended in a much earlier post. Even with a 38mm it's beeotch getting it loose without an impact. Then you have the same problem again only in reverse when you go to putting it back together.
I will try that. I have AC so I have the two pulley system. Worth a try.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Dan,
I am a former US Marine Staff Sergeant. Please, include crayon pictures. I got very confused at what L-Bracket you are talking about.
Funny, it was a pic about something totally different I sent to Matt when he discovered that my distributor was 180 degrees out hence the timing being 180 out as well. Pics are worth a thousand words or is it dollars. I forget.
Thanks,
Mike
Dan,
Reading it more and more I believe that I got it. I think whomever put it where it is currently didn’t like it being disconnected every time they checked the timing belt or something.
Makes sense... I will change that. I need to also go out and check the crank timing from the transaxle side and ensure they are also sync’d.
Too much to do but I learned a valuable lesson. I knew I needed to change the tensioner and belt but was too lazy. Now, I am in the pickle.
Sort of a good thing since I am fixing other issues as well.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Dan,
Reading it more and more I believe that I got it. I think whomever put it where it is currently didn’t like it being disconnected every time they checked the timing belt or something.
Makes sense... I will change that. I need to also go out and check the crank timing from the transaxle side and ensure they are also sync’d.
Too much to do but I learned a valuable lesson. I knew I needed to change the tensioner and belt but was too lazy. Now, I am in the pickle.
Sort of a good thing since I am fixing other issues as well.
Thanks,
Mike

Here's my post from a while back asking folks to see if they had one floating around, it has pix....my car did not have one when I got the car.
 
Here's my post from a while back asking folks to see if they had one floating around, it has pix....my car did not have one when I got the car.
I can't say what originally came on the cars, but neither of my FI version X's (both are '85s) have that style hose anchor as you show (in the other thread - green circle):

4f7656d_zps1d36d30b.jpg


They both have a elongated metal loop (that holds two hoses) attached to the post at the red arrow. Regardless I can't see any difference either way, but whatever seems best to each owner is what they should have I suppose.
 
You know, as long as all hoses are routed properly and not touching things they shouldn't it's not real critical where wire or hose attachment points are.
Unless you are anal about originality and god knows this stuff was changed every year by Fiat.
If you run without a cam belt cover it gets real critical how you secure hoses and wires in the general area of the spinning cam belt and wheels!
 
I can't say what originally came on the cars, but neither of my FI version X's (both are '85s) have that style hose anchor as you show (in the other thread - green circle):

View attachment 24288

They both have a elongated metal loop (that holds two hoses) attached to the post at the red arrow. Regardless I can't see any difference either way, but whatever seems best to each owner is what they should have I suppose.
Would like to see pix of the loops.

Of all the pix of X1/9 engines I've seen here, can't say that I got the impression anything came stock on that stud your red arrow points to. Maybe there for factory use, or maybe used on another application of the SOHC? I know our cam box cover is unique to accommodate the throttle linkage, but I don't think I remember anyone saying the cam box itself is unique to the X installation.

Somebody with a ton of experience with all manner of FIATs might know.....paging Jeff Stich!!!!
 
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I can't say what originally came on the cars, but neither of my FI version X's (both are '85s) have that style hose anchor as you show (in the other thread - green circle):

View attachment 24288

They both have a elongated metal loop (that holds two hoses) attached to the post at the red arrow. Regardless I can't see any difference either way, but whatever seems best to each owner is what they should have I suppose.
Well, Florida Mike has the right bracket so alls the better having it installed correctly :)
 
Dan,
Then what is the area it is currently mounted to’s purpose? A nut and washer and an area that seems perfect. Don’t know...
Going to have to look at this deeper.
Mike
I have the covers for the timing belt. Just going to complete the belt change.
Mike
 
Of all the pix of X1/9 engines I've seen here, can't say that I got the impression anything came stock on that stud your red arrow points to. Maybe there for factory use, or maybe used on another application of the SOHC?

Somebody with a ton of experience with all manner of FIATs might know.....paging Jeff Stich!!!!

That stud was originally used on carbed SOHC engines as an anchor point for the air filter housing (there's a small metal "foot" on the base of the housing that fits onto this stud).

Here's a photo of a 128 air filter setup, similar to the X1/9 (ignore the hose routing/bracketry, that's a previous owner's doing):

IMG_18601.jpg
 
That stud was originally used on carbed SOHC engines as an anchor point for the air filter housing (there's a small metal "foot" on the base of the housing that fits onto this stud).

Here's a photo of a 128 air filter setup, similar to the X1/9 (ignore the hose routing/bracketry, that's a previous owner's doing):

View attachment 24300

Brings to mind the old Packard slogan, "Ask the man who owns one." Thx! :)
https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2011/05/19/who-asked-first/

Do carbed X1/9s use that stud for the same purpose?
 
That stud was originally used on carbed SOHC engines as an anchor point for the air filter housing (there's a small metal "foot" on the base of the housing that fits onto this stud).

Here's a photo of a 128 air filter setup, similar to the X1/9 (ignore the hose routing/bracketry, that's a previous owner's doing):

View attachment 24300
The stud that my L-bracket is currently on is unused even on the carb version.
What is that one for?

Mike

693684C7-317A-4F58-BB84-17F55CE3B94E.jpeg
 
One of the 8 studs that hold the cam cover to the cam box.
Dan,
The valve cover nut... So, it is not wise using that stud/washer/nut for something else.
Got it.
I will be moving the L-bracket to the stock location in the very near future.
Mike
 
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Dan,
The valve cover nut... So, it is not wise using that stud/washer/nut for something else.
Got it.
I will be moving the L-bracket to the stock location in the very near future.
Mike

I can't imagine that there would be any harm to leaving it where it is, if that's where you want it. Just wanted to point out the stock location. These cars have been thru so many owners and been "fixed" by so many "mechanics" who seem to think only half of what the engineers designed the car to have is really needed, that it's no surprise that stuff is mislocated, disconnected, or just plain A.W.O.L.
 
Going back to the vac hose on the last page, make sure you ensure there actually is a clear opening up through the vacuum tube into the intake manifold. Mine was filled with crud and was not offering any vacuum to the distributor.

I used a small finish nail to push through the schmutz though a fine drill would likely have been easier to twist through the gunk.

Ultimately removing the manifold to properly clean it would be the thing to do.
 
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