Tool thread

Regarding old floor jacks. I have a couple that are really old. Bought one new around 35 years ago ("Allied" I think), another one was given to me used about 25 years ago (the same "Sears" you guys have). Both still work, but both developed a little problem along the way. They would very slowly leak down if I left the full weight of the car on it (rather than lowering the car onto stands). Along with the leak down I also noticed they became very difficult to regulate the lowering speed - as I turned the handle to open it they would suddenly drop all the way down. I tried bleeding, topping up the fluid, etc, but no real change. Figured the seals were leaking from age. Then I did a modification to the handle to make it easier to control the release speed. I welded a old socket inside the end of the handle to allow sticking a T-bar sliding-handle (like the pic below) onto the end. The idea was it allow me additional leverage to open it more gently with better control. However I found it offered an additional unexpected benefit. I could also tighten the handle a tad more, which stopped the leak down. Now both work great again. The T-handle can easily snap into either jack or be left off as needed. I'm sure the real answer is to have them rebuilt (if they can be), but I figure I've more than got my money's worth with them so a quick fix is good enough.
51TyGrIBCUL._AC_SY355_.jpg


This will give the basic idea how it looks:
5-ton-floor-jack-01.jpg
 
Speaking of old jacks, I have some cool ones that my dad left behind.

One is the floor jack I used as a kid in his garage. It was a lever ratcheting type (not hydraulic), with a really long handle. Kind of like these:
images.jpg listing_pic_1105558_1447614927_4.jpg

Another is a early hydraulic "bumper jack". It was used on cars back when they had real bumpers. You placed the ends under the bumper and lifted the car that way. Looks just like this one but has a hydraulic cylinder in the center:
unnamed (1).jpg
This is an idea how it works:
Jacks-3.jpg
Unfortunately one of the legs broke off ages ago and it has sat so long everything is rusted solid now.

There is a "screw" type that looks like a bottle jack but is mechanical. And a couple of odd looking "scissor" types. Maybe others that I don't recall. They are buried in a old shed.
 
Last week I bought a new jack. The old one was leaking and I had exactly the experience like Dr Jeff. I wanted a super low jack to go under my very low cars, and still be able to get them as high as possible. Found this 1.5 ton "Pela" that works from 70 to 700 mm. It makes my life in the garage much easier.
upload_2020-5-9_11-17-59.png
 
Might be worth mentioning....

I just saw a recall notice on Harbor Freight jack stands. It pertains to models: 61196, 61197, and 56371, purchased between 2013 and 2020 (depending on model). The issue is stated as something to the effect of possible release of the stand when the vehicle is shaken. They are offering a gift card for the purchase price if you return them.

I happen to have a pair of one of these models (mine are the 6-ton), which I use for the extra height and not the weight capacity. I've had one of my X's on them for a couple years while restoring it. The car has been shaken, stirred, and otherwise disturbed without incident, so I'm not sure just how critical this is. To me they look exactly like all of the other jack stands I have (several sets of various sizes and brands). Therefore I wonder if this was only the result of a nuisance lawsuit by some idiot with more lawyer than common sense. But who knows.

I'm sure you can get the details on their website.
 
Not sure where but I saw someone dissect the issue with these jackstands.

Apparently the issue is too small of an overlap where the teeth of the saddle post (the toothed post and saddle upon which the car rests) mesh with the blocking pawl (the part inside the frame of the stand that engages with the teeth on the saddle post and allows the saddle post to be raised but not lowered without operating the release handle).

The contact patch between the engaged teeth is laughably small on the recalled stands, so any stress on the body of the stand that would allow relative movement between the meshing teeth would be enough to allow the teeth to lose their contact patch, allowing the loaded saddle bar to drop instantly.
 
Apparently the issue is too small of an overlap where the teeth of the saddle post mesh with the blocking pawl
Thanks Dan, I hadn't read what the actual issue was.

I recall some time back there were guys claiming these stands would just collapse (as in bend and fold over) if too much weight was placed on them. There's always people like that, making ridiculous claims about items they deem to be poor quality solely based on where it comes from. But this is something that can be verified.

I have some stands that are from HF during the period of this recall. As well as others from long before that, and yet others from different sources (including some that were my dad's made in the 1950's). I'll have to compare all of them in this regard and see if there is a noticeable difference in the contact area described.

However as I stated previously I've had cars on these recall stands for a long time undergoing restoration. They have been bounced, tugged, jostled, vibrated, wiggled, yanked, and any other descriptor you can think of, without failure. I must say though the cars on them are very light weight (e.g. engine removed), so that might make a difference.
 
Thanks for the video Rod. There is a picture in it showing the center posts for two different stands side by side. There is a very obvious difference between them, one has much larger "teeth" on it. The small teeth on the other one look very odd and really stand out as being shallow. I'll look at all of my stands to verify, but I don't recall any of them having those shallow, smaller teeth. I should be quite obvious to see the difference.
 
Mine are older than the recalled ones and have much larger teeth like the new ones do, I was looking at the wear patterns on the teeth and they don't engage all the way but they do engage much better than the one he made fail.
 
Mine are also older and have the deeper teeth. I have some of the older gray ones which I have had for 20 years? The pawl side teeth also also square not at an angle

I bought some taller 10 ton ones from another no name brand which also seem to exhibit the more appropriate characteristics
 
Two things I noticed in the video.

One, with his heavy truck on them it did not seem to exhibit the problem. But with the light weight trailer on them it let go easily. And that might make sense, more weight between the teeth and pawl will hold them together better. Not good news for using them with our little cars.
The other thing I noticed was moving the vehicle (either of them) around did NOT cause the failure. Only lifting up on the release handle did. And it wasn't consistent for both stands. For one thing it doesn't seem that lifting the handle would be wise regardless. But my point is that's a completely different scenario than the recall description said, where any movement of the vehicle may cause collapse.
I'll compare the teeth all of my stands today.

By the way, my recall notice said HF would issue a store credit for the purchase price. And it sounded like there were not any improved stands available at this time. However I believe the guy in the video was able to get better ones in exchange for the defective ones. Has anyone tried to return theirs yet? What options were you given?
 
Took some pics of various jack stands around my place. All are 6-ton to give equal comparisons.

I have a pair of the 'recall' HF ones handy. Bought as a set at the same time. On one the teeth appear quite well formed and even. But on the other one the teeth are not as prominent and not symmetrical. The "bad" one:
067.JPG
068.JPG


The "good" one. Thought I had a 'profile' pic of the teeth; they looked to be larger. But you can see they are better defined and even across the face:
069.JPG


By comparison here is another brand of stand that's about 25 years old:
064.JPG
071.JPG


Really not much different from the "good" HF one.

And here is a vintage stand - at least 65+ years old:
073.JPG
072.JPG
075.JPG


Again, not that much different from the other "good" ones.

So it seems there may be some "good" and some "bad" castings of the same stands from HF. I didn't take any actual measurements or try any tests. They are currently in use and it is brutally hot here. I'd like to know if HF has better ones available now?
 
That old one is a nice casting. Sharp detail, good material use and the teeth are very well defined with good geometry. Those would be worth keeping.
 
Those would be worth keeping.
Definitely. I have a few of them in 3 and 6 ton. I'm not really sure exactly how old they are. But I do know they are older than me. I'm guessing my dad got them when he owned a small chain of transmission shops in San Francisco. That would have been in the early to mid 50's I think.
 
Recently I heard someone telling about the amazing job a "needle scaler" does to clean old dirty, rusty, greasy parts. I'm referring to a air powered tool like this:
96997_I.jpg


This person specifically used it to prep a crusty engine block for painting and I have to say it appeared to do a good job. And he said it was incredibly fast to get it clean.
Here's a little more info on them:

I've never tried one. But that's one job I've really come to hate over the years; cleaning nasty parts off old cars. So if it works as promised it might be a great time saver. Frankly they look a bit barbaric and I'd be concerned that it could damage some parts. But maybe not? Anyone have one or have first hand knowledge on how well they work?
 
This morning I had a stop to make next door to a Harbor Freight store so I stopped in to ask the manager about the whole jack stand recall issue. As I'm sure you all know they have recalled the replacements for the first recall as well as pretty much all others. I was told it was done to simplify the matter and to make the return process easier for customers. I asked if there were any good replacements available and if there was a time constraint for returning them. Unfortunately there isn't anything better to offer yet but eventually there should be. And there is no time limit on returning them. So I asked if it would be ok to just keep the ones I have until such time when better ones were available, then just swap them out even exchange. I was told that would the easiest way provided I wasn't in any risk of injury until then. For me this is better because all of my HF stands are holding up bare X1/9 body shells undergoing restoration and I'd have to find somethin else to use. I haven't had any issues with the stands.

While I was in the store I took a quick look at the "needle scaler" tool discussed in my last post. It is bigger than I imagined. I'd still be interested to hear any feedback on using them to clean old dirty parts.

Also while I was there I overheard a odd conversation between a customer and a checkout clerk. The customer had purchased an item plus the extended warranty for it. The item had an issue so he brought it back to the store for an exchange. He was told the store policy is for the customer to ship the defective item to the HF headquarters and they will send him a replacement. That's the first time I've ever heard that from HF. Is this a new policy? They no longer replace defective items under warranty at the stores? The cost to ship things is more than most items value. And this guy had purchased the extra warranty, which you would think offers even better coverage. I wonder if HF is failing financially like many other big companies are.
 
Regarding the "needle scaler" tool, I did a bit of searching online for examples of using one on car parts.

The summary seems to be it is good for removing larger matter from most hard surfaces. Possible examples might be all the thick dried grease/oil/dirt/crud build up that you always find on the lower crossmember, suspension arms, etc. Removing sound deadening on the interior floor or undercoating on the bottom pans. Getting the majority of rust and grease and crud off engines, trans, etc. As a preliminary cleaning before sandblasting (greatly reduces the contamination of your blast media) or other cleaning processes (easier to finish clean things with solvents, etc). It's also reported to be great at cleaning up welds, but I'm not sure what type of weld process that's referring to - some need it more than others. Rust removal is a common use but only on heavier metals; they are too aggressive for thin sheet metal. However some people have successfully used one with lower air pressure to remove body filler and rust on some body panels (although I suspect that was on vehicles with thicker sheet metal than our Fiats have). There are places on the X where the sheet metal will hold up to a more aggressive approach - such as removing rust from windshield channels or such. But it might also be good at removing all of the excessive seam sealer Fiat globbed all over the X's body. That stuff is like undercoating or the sound deadener inside, it's difficult to remove with traditional hand methods (one example is prepping the seams on the bottom box tunnel before removing it to replace the coolant tubes).

Cast iron and steel materials seem best suited. But it can be used on heavier cast aluminum if the air pressure is turned down a little. It looks to be particularly good at getting into nooks, corners, crevices, around cast lettering, bosses, seams, curves, etc where a typical scraper doesn't do well. While it does remove a lot of unwanted material, the resultant condition of the surface depends on the substrate; rough surfaces like cast iron may still have some very light contamination in places, while smooth steel plate surfaces come out very shiny and clean. So depending on what you intend to do with finishes you may still need to do some final prep work. But it appears to be a time saver getting to that point, especially on heavily contaminated items.

I'm wondering how it might compare to other methods for doing such tasks? Pressure washers do ok for some things with heavy grease build up, but have their downside and limitations. Various blasting processes work well for many tasks but can get very messy and costly. Solvents and brushes work for many items but is time and labor intensive. Wire wheels on power tools seem to do the same result overall, but they are not as effective in all those tight places the needle tool gets to.

All in all it strikes me as another tool option in an arsenal of weapons to use when attacking a restoration job. Much like the multitude of various grinding tools I have for metal fab work; each is great at certain tasks, and having a choice of them to use together makes the work much easier and less time consuming, but no one tool can do everything. And who doesn't need more tools? ;)
 
I'm sure this next item has been discussed, but I can't recall if it was on Xweb or another forum. If it was here then I couldn't find the thread it may be buried in. So I'll post about it here.

Battery maintainers. I have several classic cars, plus a few "daily drivers", and some motorcycles. But I rarely drive any of my vehicles these days. Partly due to my personal circumstance with taking care of mom, partly due to living out in the boondocks, partly due to the extreme heat most of the year here, and partly due to being retired and spending a lot of time in the shop. So I have a number of car batteries that don't get charged like they should. Especially in this heat, it KILLS car batteries in a hurry. Therefore I've purchased several battery maintainers to try and keep them alive.

I have a few brands/styles of them. Some were given to me by the manufacturers as demos, others are what was available locally at the time, and some I have no idea how they came about. But pretty much ALL of them are worthless.

One from Schumacher totally fried a battery faster than I could check its status. They gave me a replacement (different model that was supposed to be better) and it stopped working soon after. I also had one of their full size battery chargers that failed. I feel they are one of the worst brands in this category.

Two units from Deltran ("Battery Tender") have failed. Both indicate they are functioning correctly but both are only keeping the connected batteries at around 10-11 volts max. That is disappointing because I thought they were decent.

Another one was a rather expensive unit that was supposed to be top rated by a few automotive press sources. I don't recall the brand at the moment, but it stopped working soon after the warranty expired and the company told me to take a hike. So I tossed it out (reason why I can't look at the brand). As I said, it was not "affordable".

I have another one that has been working longer than any of the others without problems (so far). The funny thing is it's a no-name cheapo from China that was given to me by the vendor. It looks to be the best of them all but I can't find any more like it.

Seems I've had more but that's what comes to mind at the moment. For the most part I haven't found any that are worth buying. There are a lot on the market that are just rebranded items, with labels like Duracell, Griots, Craftsman, Mac, Eastwood, etc., actually made by one of the common manufacturers. So it is difficult to trust any of those rebranded names, not knowing what they really are.

I've resisted getting more of the high priced specialty ones (C-TEK, NOCO, etc) after my poor experience with the other pricey one.
What good experiences has anyone had with a particular brand?
 
I had pretty good luck with an HFT battery maintainer. I think it was about $5 with a coupon. The only issue that I have with it is that it can generate lots of EMI, especially with the extension leads I put on it so I can plug it into the X cigarette lighter. If I want to listen to AM radio just about anywhere on the property, I need to unplug it. I've also used an ordinary power supply with a reverse protection diode and a voltage dropping resistor. That tends to be pretty much idiot proof.
 
I've got a lot of experience with battery chargers/maintainers. At any one time I've got around 20 or so batteries on charge/maintain. I use a wide variety of manufactures and have had good luck with most. However, I won't buy Sears maintainers ever again. I have had close to 10 Sears maintainers go bad. Live and learn. I had one HF maintainer fry a battery, so no more of those either. I've had very good luck with the Schumacher brand, I've never had one fail. That's my go-to brand of maintainer.
I have had one Ctek battery charger go dead on me. I was pretty disappointed when that one went tits up so I contacted Ctek about getting it fixed. Over the phone they told me that the problem was likely a blown fuse (internal) and told me they thought it could be fixed. But...I had to send it to (I think) Sweden to have it repaired. Ummmm, not going to happen....
I've had good luck with the desulfation feature that I have on another Ctek and an Odessy brand charger. It doesn't always work, but they have rejuvenated several dead batteries for me. Usually it is more of a life extender, it doesn't make them new again. But I sometimes get another year/season out of the battery before it needs replacement. So I'm happy with it.
I don't believe that just slapping a battery maintainer on a battery will prevent all problems and keep a battery in like new condition, but they can extend the battery's life significantly. I do believe that if you don't use a battery maintainer (and store the battery properly), you'll likely hasten a batteries demise. If you have a car that sits alot, and has battery drainer like a clock, you need a battery maintainer, or a battery disconnect (or both).
 
Back
Top