Trailer tie down spots

Ed Lord said:
Thanks Jim, the search feature discounted tie and down. This thread is perfect. Thanks.
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Yep, I ended up searching on "trailering". I added a new "Trailering threads" category to the BOX under the General Info section for the next time. :)
 
Just one tip for doing searches. I do a Google search with "site:xwebforums.com" at the end without quotations. That way you don't run into issues with short words and I feel you get a better hit rate
 
Use the wheels and wheel rims. This allows the body to move on the suspension and negates any possible damage to the body. I found it worked well for me. One of my longest trips was SFO to KC and there was no movement on the trailer at all.
 
I regularly towed my X1/9 racecars, on open trailers, for about 12 years. In a typical season I logged about 25K miles. I started out using ratchet straps hooked to the factory tie-down points. These are the loops directly under the bumper mounts. That worked fine but it did require that the car be tightly cinched down on the trailer to prevent movement. I used this method for two reasons: 1, it did hold the car very securely on the trailer, and 2, it prevented the shocks from working continuously when towing. This is key when you consider that race shocks have a finite life span before the dampening begins to decay and they need rebuilding. 25K of highway miles, even riding on the trailer, would be the equivalent to several seasons for competition runs and kill the shocks.

For a stock car, using the factory tie-down points and cinching the car down, actually works pretty well. You can pull the car down onto the bump stops and it will ride like that quite nicely.

When I upgraded to an enclosed trailer, the bigger/heavier trailer mean that there was significantly less movement transferred to the car inside. So I switched to using axle straps looped over the lower control arms and not cinching the car down on its springs.
 
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