Trying to change my rear wheel bearings

Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by catterar, Aug 24, 2015.

  1. catterar

    catterar Bob Cattera

    Location:
    Angier, NC
    First tried to remove the pillar from the control arm but the stub shaft would not clear the ball joint. So I pulled the control arm and pressed the stub shaft out of the pillar then pressed the hub out of the pillar. Then I removed the ring nut using the proper tool.
    Well one side of the inner race came out with the hub, not unexpected. The manual says to drive the inner race far enough off the hub to use a puller to remove it.
    My first question is how do you drive the race down the hub? I have tried to wedge a screwdriver between the hub and race but it won't budge. I now have the hub in the freezer and plan to apply heat to the race to see if that will free it up enough to move.
    My other question is, is a 12 ton press enough to press out the bearing? I have been using the ring nut tool to press against the back of the bearing but it is not moving. I tried heating the pillar with a propane torch still no movement.
    Does anyone have any suggestions as to what my next step should be? Have I missed a step?
    Thanks,
     
  2. budgetzagato

    budgetzagato Administrator Moderator

    Location:
    Olympia, WA USA
    I use a grinder to slot the race, most of the way is good enough, don't get into the stub axle. Once slotted, a cold chisel will split it and it will slip off easy-peasy.

    12 ton press is more than good enough. Have you removed the lock ring?
     
    kmead likes this.
  3. catterar

    catterar Bob Cattera

    Location:
    Angier, NC
    Yep lock ring removed.

    That is if you are referring to the nut that takes the 8 sided tool to remove it.
     
  4. myronx19

    myronx19 True Classic

    Location:
    Toronto, ON Canada
    Oh, easy... I changed my bearings this past spring.

    Use a bearing splitter. I use a 3" one, flip it upside down, grab the inner race and tighten the splitter.

    Put it in a press (I have a 12 ton), and the splitter will "slide" a little and then hang up on a slight contour of the inner race. It should budge a little, and MAY slip off the inner race - but maybe not. You can also grind two slots (now that I think of it) for a splitter to grab it there.

    After it's moved a bit, I then put the splitter the proper way and press the race off the hub. Mine came apart that way, no problem.

    The new bearings will have some play, don't fear that.. mine are like this, although I wish they didn't have play. Oh well.. that's just how the new bearings are - no matter how tight you do the axle nut.


    Pressing out the old bearing is easy - I'm sure you know what to do there. BTW: I never used a puller, just a cheap frame press & the splitter and some blocking material.

    Good luck and hope that helps! - yeah, I learned the hard way that the flange goes on after the balljoint. I tightened the hub nut and then wen't "DOH!".. hahah.


    I recently did my Pontiac Vibe bearings (Toyota) - original bearings lasted 170K miles! The inner race comes off easily because there is space to get a bearing splitter in there.


    Do you shop at Harbor Freight? I recently saw a nice bearing splitter kit there - bought mine here in Canada, but almost identical. Made in Taiwan, not bad quality for the money.
     
  5. myronx19

    myronx19 True Classic

    Location:
    Toronto, ON Canada
    BTW don't use the tool to press out the bearing.


    Use a large impact socket or something. From the back, I use a 1 1/2" socket and press on the inner race that's still in the bearing.

    Also, by all means - only press on the OD when putting in the new bearing and then shore up the opposite side inner race when you press in the hub through the bearing.

    12 ton should be enough unless it's seized of course. Mine came out with my 12 ton hydraulic press, wear goggles and stand back.

    You can reuse the old ring nuts, I used a brass punch to flatten them as they did bow at the seal flange. I never removed the rear seal flange, kept it in place. Use new V seals if you have them. Use silicone grease to lube them.
     
  6. catterar

    catterar Bob Cattera

    Location:
    Angier, NC
    Thanks Myron

    You learn something new every day. I'd never heard of or seen a bearing splitter. I guess its off to Harbor Freight or Northern Tool and Equipment tomorrow.
     
  7. catterar

    catterar Bob Cattera

    Location:
    Angier, NC
    OK

    I'll DC using the tool to press on the old bearing. I plan to use the old bearing to press in the new bearing. I have 4 new V seals and a tube of silicone grease ready.
     
  8. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Location:
    Grimsby Ont Canada
    That is a US name

    In Canada it is called a Knife Edge puller.

    TonyK.

    Grimsby Ontario Canada
     
  9. myronx19

    myronx19 True Classic

    Location:
    Toronto, ON Canada
    http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/bearing-separator/A-p2990103e

    Hey Tony, I guess it depends on where in Canada!! I never knew it was also referred to as that. I tried using mine as a puller but the press was better.

    I can't see how big this one is on my phone, but Harbor Freight has great deals..

    http://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.ca%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dbearing%2Bsplitter%2Bharbor%2Bfreight%26oq%3Dbearing%2Bsplitter%2Bharb%26gs_l%3Dmobile-heirloom-serp.1.0.0.149892.153920.0.155712.13.8.4.1.1.0.207.1319.0j7j1.8.0....0...1c.1.34.mobile-heirloom-serp..5.8.942.abB_Lqa-Qlk
     
  10. jvandyke

    jvandyke True Classic

    Location:
    West Michigan
    I did mine with hand tools because it was the weekend and I'm a stubborn cuss. Shop will push off old and push on new for $25 or so WAY easier but I'm not very smart.
     
  11. bg82x

    bg82x Bob Grasch

    Location:
    Sandwich, IL
  12. catterar

    catterar Bob Cattera

    Location:
    Angier, NC
    Everything is apart

    Thanks everyone for your help.
    In the exploded view of the rear pillar there is a plate between the bearing and the ring nut. when I took my right side pillar apart this plate was not installed. Should I try to find one or can I get by without it?
    Which way do the V seals install, with the flat surface against the bearing or aginst the hub and stub shaft?
    Once again thank you for all your help.
     
  13. myronx19

    myronx19 True Classic

    Location:
    Toronto, ON Canada
    Don't worry, there is no plate between the bearing and the ring nut. I never noticed one in the blowup.

    V seal lip slides on the ring nut and the other on the CV side bearng seal backing plate - so the "soft" edge is the V side, that's what needs to slide on the seal surface. Just use some silicone grease to make 'em quiet. I didn't use enough on my fronts, they make a bit of noise cuz they're still new.


    Just make sure to tighten the ring nut to the correct torque - which I don't recall what it is right now, and stake it
     
  14. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    How come there are never pics in threads like this??

    Just sayin' - it's easier to understand whats going on when pics are taken of the process.....

    Still haven't had to take mine apart - yet -
     
    Cratecruncher likes this.
  15. catterar

    catterar Bob Cattera

    Location:
    Angier, NC
    I know I shouldn't even ask this question

    but, what would happen if you forgot to stake the ring nut before pressing the whole assembly back together.
    I realized that I had not done this after I had everything back on the car.
    I don't want to pull everything apart again but I also don't want the right rear wheel passing me as I'm rolling down the interstate.
     
  16. myronx19

    myronx19 True Classic

    Location:
    Toronto, ON Canada
    Well... it's important. Problem is, you would need to press the hub out of the knuckle. The inner race is now stuck on the hub and it will most likely come out of the bearing. I don't know if it damages the bearing if you do this or not, but I would feel uneasy about driving around on ring nuts that aren't staked. The press fit does hold it, but the aftermarket bearings slide in quite easily into the knuckle.

    If it was me, I would fix the ring nut properly. The OE ring nut is HARD to find and are not cheap.

    Sorry.. wish I had better news. Did you torque it correctly?
     
  17. catterar

    catterar Bob Cattera

    Location:
    Angier, NC
    I knew that was the answer

    The ring nut is torqued to 43 ft lbs, but I will pull it apart if the bearing comes apart I will put in the one that I have for the left side and order another for that side.
    Thanks,
    Bob
     
  18. myronx19

    myronx19 True Classic

    Location:
    Toronto, ON Canada
    Hey Bob, you may be able to press out the hub and reuse it. Did you buy the bearing at MWB? Give Matt a call and ask him if you can simply press the bearing back together.

    I know Tony K has done this in order to modify the inner race of the bearing. The balls should stay in their cage and allow the inner race to be pressed back in.

    BTW : There are ways to do this on the car! You may not need to take it all off.

    Hmm, pressing in is easy using threaded rod and a socket - pulling apart is a bit tricky but not impossible. Just need to get creative! That bearing splitter kit might come in handy some how or a puller but you need to bear down on something.
     
  19. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Must have jinxed myself. Over the past week, I have noted a 'rrrrrrrrr' sound coming from the left rear that varies in pitch with speed. Jacked up the left rear, and sure enough the wheel bearing is TOAST, really bad(!) As in, I should not have driven it at all. I have a bearing here, but I don't have a spare lock ring or the tool to remove it, so I ordered those today.

    Fortunately, the replacement rear shocks (using QA1 TS510's this time instead of $800 Konis that only lasted three years...) for the wagon arrived, so I can install those tomorrow, and have a drivable ride until the X1/9 parts arrive from Bayless.
     
  20. myronx19

    myronx19 True Classic

    Location:
    Toronto, ON Canada
    You can reuse the lock ring a couple of times, no problem (I assume you have a 5spd.) Use a brass punch to remove the stake, this way you won't damage the thread. I ordered lock rings and I didn't notice I ordered 4spd ones.. my old ones worked out fine. In my stash of NOS stuff, I found a pair of late model lock ring nuts (for "next time")

    The later style (Monte Carlo) lock rings don't work with the tool - that's the problem. The X1/9 style is a hex, while the later one has radial slots. I don't think you'll be able to torque it down unless you have the socket that works with that ring (assuming that's the one you bought) I don't even think the V-seal works with the later style lock ring to be honest, at least I can't figure out how they would - they're a LOT thicker than the OE X1/9 units.

    Anyway, it's so easy to change - no pics necessary.. and to be honest, it's SO much work to take pics while doing this work. I'm always rushing so that I can get the car back on the road to enjoy it!! lol :)
     

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