Trying to change my rear wheel bearings

Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by catterar, Aug 24, 2015.

  1. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    I pulled the hub & pillar: - removed caliper & rotor, removed tie rod end, popped C/arm balljoint, removed axle nut, disconnected strut, wiggled pillar off balljoint. Not sure why the manual says to remove the six bolts for the "stub shaft", that was unnecessary.

    I bought the lock ring, tool and bearing from Bayless, I believe the listing was all for 5spd, I'll have to check now..

    EDIT, yup, meant for my '87

    82374669 Wheel Bearing (Fiat Bertone X19 5-Spd Rear / Lancia Front and Rear) -
    57149-OE Wheel Bearing Retainer Ring Tool - Rear (Fiat Bertone X19 5-Spd 1979-88, Scorpion)
    82280343 Wheel Bearing Retainer Ring - Rear (Fiat Bertone X19 5-Spd, Lancia) -

    The diagram seems to be incorrect in terms of the "thrust washer" removal mentioned in the removal photos, it's positioned between 3 & 4 in reality. It appears to be nothing more than a seat ring for the inner most rubber seal that sits on the axle. I'm unclear as to why I would want to remove that, since it will definitely be damaged in so doing.

    [​IMG]

    I'm assuming from the crappy manual photos that the bearing is removed from the outside, with an inner seat that the lock ring pushes the bearing against?
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2019
  2. Rodger

    Rodger True Classic

    Location:
    Olympia, WA
    Just took mine apart today

    I am changing all of the wheel bearings as part of my restoration so I spent today taking everything apart. Hussein, you are right about the diagram being wrong. Also, the thrust washer on the rear spindle does not need to be removed to press out the bearing. That is a good thing as I did not see new ones on the MWB site but they may be available elsewhere.

    I also had the issue with getting the inner races off of the hubs. I didn't have the bearing splitter but I did have a set of the Harbor Freight pullers. I ground three slots at the edge of the race next to the hub and was able to fit the smaller puller fingers into those slots and then was able to pull the race up. The slots have to be tapered towards the hub flange to allow the curved part of the finger to get in enough to just grab the other edge of the slot.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  3. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Thanks, Rodger.

    I don't have the lock ring tool yet, so my pillar & hub are still together. Should have the the tool & spare lock ring on Thursday, so I'll be moving forward then :)
     
  4. Rodger

    Rodger True Classic

    Location:
    Olympia, WA
    Access to lock ring

    You have to separate the hub from the pillar first in order to access the lock ring and that is when the inner race comes out attached to the hub. So if you were totally bored and wanted to get a start on it before you get the lock ring tool, you could.
     
  5. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    I did in fact do that today - my three-finger puller came today, so I used that to push the hub out of the pillar. My inner races stayed inside the bearing, so no issues to deal with there.

    Doug pointed out I ordered the Lancia style lock ring, which won't work with the tool I bought, so hopefully the original lock ring will come out nicely with the tool. I'll know tomorrow evening.
     
  6. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Hub ring tool arrived, so I removed the lock ring - I have 40 inch 3/4 drive breaker bar, so that worked out quite well to break it loose after un-staking the ring.

    Using the 3 jaw puller worked fine to press out the old bearing

    [​IMG]

    bearing out

    [​IMG]

    hub & lock ring look fine

    [​IMG]

    I took the old bearing apart to use for pressing the new bearing when it arrives

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2019
    aarpcard likes this.
  7. fiatfactory

    fiatfactory Steve Cecchele

    Location:
    Western Australia
    Slot an old inner bearing race and outer so you can use them and they don't get stuck...
     
  8. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Can't find the torque spec in the manual for the stub shaft nut in the hub.
    Anyone know?

    Found the Cv bolt spec, 31ft/lb, but no mention of stub shaft nut
     
  9. myronx19

    myronx19 True Classic

    Location:
    Toronto, ON Canada
    It's in the axle section. I believe it's 159 ft lbs, then stake.
     
  10. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    I can't find it. Not in AxleShaft section, not in Rear Suspension.

    EDIT - found it in Section 44-2 Suspension.

    Thanks to MWB & Vic's, it's all back together
     
    myronx19 likes this.
  11. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Have to do this over - I assume the wheel spacers are killing the bearings. The replaced bearing has more wear than the other side original item :(
     
  12. Cratecruncher

    Cratecruncher True Classic

    Location:
    Austin
    Sorry to hear that Hussein. But maybe start a new thread and take pictures of the process for those like me who haven't yet done one. Share your experience with good photos and do's and don'ts. It will make a great reference for future owners years from now.
     
  13. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    OK. Will do.
     
    Cratecruncher likes this.
  14. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Location:
    Grimsby Ont Canada
    I am wondering if the newer bearings with the greater amount of lash is accelerating wear on the bearing races. Point loading would be apparent and also could be the cause.

    TonyK.

    Grimsby Ontario Canada.
     
    myronx19 likes this.
  15. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    The one with extreme wear is the 'new' one that I replaced when this thread was active. The original bearing on the other side had only the slightest play, but any play is no good, so out it goes.

    Point loading is the result of the wide spacers I added with the Dallara mods? Not familiar with the term. I hope I'm not in for replacing the bearings as a routine every few years.
     
  16. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Location:
    Grimsby Ont Canada
    My thought here is that if the bearings have more lash then the wheel spacers aggravate the loading. Think about it. If there is zero play in the ball bearing then all of the balls are in contact with the races at all times. But let us say that there is lash, free play now only some of the balls are in contact with the bearing race, then add wheel spacers and the few balls that are making contact see a much higher load and wear or fail sooner. How many miles on the bearing since it was changed? I say lap .003" off if the inner bearing face and tighten the bearing up. It can't make it fail any faster than what you have now. If you install the new bearing and you grab the wheel and it wiggles on the shaft what have you gained?

    Now one other option is to purchase a front wheel bearing from the Fiat 500 Abarth. The bearings are the same size as the rear of the X1/9 and are of better quality for the more robust power out put of the Abarth engine.

    TonyK.

    Grimsby Ontario Canada.
     
    myronx19 and aarpcard like this.
  17. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    DANG. I wish I had known that before I ordered new bearings from MWB :D

    I'll look into it now. EDIT - Tony, do you have a part number? I'm only seeing generic 500 front bearings in searching, not a Abarth-specific option.
     
  18. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Location:
    Grimsby Ont Canada
    They are the same as the 500 bearing SKF FW503 Rock Auto has a lot of choices.

    TonyK.

    Grimsby Ontario Canada.
     
    lookforjoe likes this.
  19. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    I'll see what brand the one coming from MWB is - it may be the Timken or SKF bearing anyway. I'll recheck the one I have on hand. The one that failed badly was the green seal version, I bought it from either Vic's or MWB back then.

    I'm OK with Timken, SKF or NTN bearings.

    EDIT 72x37x37 are the critical dimensions

    NTN AU0727-4 (Beck/Arnley 0514283)
    NTN AU0727-11(?) (Centric 412.04002)
    SKF BAH-0055 AB (National 510112)
    Timken WB000077 (probably NTN bearing from RockAuto)
    SKF FW503
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2019
  20. TonyK

    TonyK True Classic

    Location:
    Grimsby Ont Canada
    The bearing is the same, the only difference is the tone ring over the seal for the ABS system on the Abarth Car. So the part number will not be the same, but the size of the bearing is the same.

    TonyK.

    Grimsby Ontario Canada.
     

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