Turbo K20 Mid Engine Yugo

Nice petit turbo you have lined up there :) - it does look like some clocking is in order - looks like the drain is pointed up into the manifold at the mo....

It should do the job. :) Actually, the CHRA is rightside-up. That is a top mount manifold.

Those Yugos do look like a late 70's VW rabbit to me, which is not a bad thing, IMO

They do, a little. After many years of looking closely at both, I think that the Yugo looks better. And it is noticeably smaller than a Rabbit to boot.
 
Check out this walk around from Harry on the auction....ok Harry lives in a different world to the majority of us regarding prices but it’s a good video....

 
Some cars you might like going up for sale:

Beautiful beautiful cars. Ex-B and homologation cars go for so much now. I plainly remember $5000 UrQs and $50,000 Sport Quattros. Now add a zero to both. The Renault R5 is the bargain these days, if you can call it that. I can't.

I've decided to make an introduction video this week and post it up. I won't be doing any actual work yet, but I'm going to introduce the project and lay out the ground rules for how the videos will proceed.
 
It ain't much, but it's a start. I got some more cleaning, putting away, and throwing away done over the weekend. It allowed me to clear out the inside of the Yugo so I could at least begin. It took a while to get to this point--most of the time I had available yesterday.
Yugo Ready.jpg
 
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So I made the first cut!

Yugo First Cut.jpg


It went without incident, except that my second cutoff wheel of the night exploded as soon as I touched the sheet metal. I mean exploded. Fortunately, none of it hit my beautiful face. It left an interesting pattern of wounds on my leg, though... That was on one of my air tools. After that, I decided to switch to the new Metabo with some more respectable CGW cutoff wheels.

Where you see the seatbelt bolt in the floor just aft of the cut is a suspension crossmember. I didn't want to get into that just yet because I am not quite ready to immobilize the car.

Here are some thoughts in no particular order:

As expected, none of the factory suspension points will be of any help. I also expect that the wheel wells will be too close together for the powertrain to fit properly, so I will have to cut those back to suit. That crossmember-ish looking bit at the heading edge of the cut is no more than a support for the passenger seat, so it will be of no help as a starting point for a bulkhead.

There might be a little sliver of space left for cargo behind the engine. I think from a noise and usability standpoint, I will do what I can to retain a little piece of the cargo floor at the back edge--even if it's only enough for a suitcase and/or a duffel bag.

The current plan is for the engine enclosure to be an angle iron cage to which removable aluminum panels will be fastened. I have never worked on a mid engine hatchback, but working on X1/9s has taught me that one cannot have too much engine access. All non-horizontal panels will be bolted into place with a series of small machine screws. The top panel will likely be easier/faster to remove so that checking the oil can be done at a gas station without tools, or at least without a real investment in time.

Fuel tank: everybody puts a fuel cell in the original engine bay. I can see why people do that. But I'd like to make it more complicated if I could. I do not think I will have space to build an X1/9 style vertical tank that installs behind the driver. Behind the passenger is out of the question. Toyota placed the fuel tank in the tunnel, believe it or not. The Yugo tunnel is practically nonexistent, but I plan to make a larger and taller tunnel anyway because I can use it to add stiffness to the body and because I like shifting gears not to feel like I'm trying to pick something up off the floor while driving down the road. Building a larger tunnel would allow me to build a long and narrow fuel tank to go inside the tunnel and install from underneath.
 
You should be having a chat with a guy called Nick that lives in NZ... he did something similar to a 128 sedan... in fact he went one better and started with a four door sedan, converted it to a 2 door sedan, and during the process a 2 litre supercharged VX engine found it's way into the chassis mid mounted... it's very neat.

SteveC
 
Looking good. Just a thought, before you cut any more you may want to weld in some cross bracing so the car does not sag, shift, etc on you. No reason to have to deal with that as well.
 
Progress!

So out of curiousity, where would the filler neck be in such a centralized gas tank location?

Finally, a little...

Great question. Of course, I would have to make a whole filler neck, so I could put the filler almost anywhere. I'm thinking driver side quarter panel, probably in the box flare.
 
You should be having a chat with a guy called Nick that lives in NZ... he did something similar to a 128 sedan... in fact he went one better and started with a four door sedan, converted it to a 2 door sedan, and during the process a 2 litre supercharged VX engine found it's way into the chassis mid mounted... it's very neat.

SteveC

I am not familiar with that engine code, but it sounds like a cool project.
 
Although it is usually messy, the teardown/stripping process always seems to be the easiest and fastest part of the whole project. Maybe that's because I'm better at taking things apart than putting them back together. :rolleyes:

I've had a cutoff wheel explode also. Left a scar on my thigh. A couple inches further to the middle and my voice would be several octaves higher. :eek: That was with an electric angle grinder, so the tool it's attached to isn't the issue; I think it is the quality of the cutoff wheel (mine was also a inexpensive one). Like you, that experience convinced me to buy better wheels.

Considering the original Yugo chassis isn't offering much help to locate everything, would it be easier to build a tube frame and completely remove the entire floor? At least that would allow you to design as much rigidity as you wish into it. And in the long run it may be lighter total weight.
I'm considering that approach on one of my future projects. Mainly due to adding TON of power to a vehicle that won't hold it otherwise. But also to allow me to drop the body far enough over it to "lay frame" with a air suspension. Naturally that's a completely different type of project. But in your case you can make the frame to suit the design of suspension and handling you're after.
 
I've had a cutoff wheel explode also. Left a scar on my thigh. A couple inches further to the middle and my voice would be several octaves higher. :eek: That was with an electric angle grinder, so the tool it's attached to isn't the issue; I think it is the quality of the cutoff wheel (mine was also a inexpensive one). Like you, that experience convinced me to buy better wheels.

I'm happy to say that the impact site was well clear of any...jewelry. It's definitely the quality of the wheel. I'm not sure where that wheel came from, because the ones I buy are quality. (Even quality ones can explode, but they're far less likely to.)

Considering the original Yugo chassis isn't offering much help to locate everything, would it be easier to build a tube frame and completely remove the entire floor? At least that would allow you to design as much rigidity as you wish into it.

It would indeed allow me more design freedom, but two of the foci of this project are going to be less invasiveness and less weight. I have an opportunity here to keep the car very light and to leave the front suspension geometry 100% alone, including steering column and switchgear. I have to work smarter on this project because I don't want to spend the time that it would take to build a whole tube frame.

And in the long run it may be lighter total weight.

Definitely not. Unibodies are amazingly light yet strong. My last major project was a short wheelbase quattro conversion to a B1 Audi Fox. I cut 9" out of the wheelbase. What I cut out was less than 20lb! There is a transverse member running under the front seats. Apart from tunnel modifications, I am not cutting the car forward of that point. Anyway, a tube frame would be substantially stronger but also substantially heavier. One goal of this build is that the car stay under 2000lb, preferably under 1800.
 
I misunderstood, I had the impression you were intending to custom build the complete front suspension and steering also. If that had been the case, with the added modifications to the rear half, then a complete frame may make more sense.
 
This was a "temporary" setup using a 2.2 Ecotec in the back seat of our E/Mod 600.
"Temporary" but it's been in there for 10 years and several major mods to the engine and auto trans.
We use a rectangular tube subframe with the engine mounted solidly to the subframe.
We are hoping for a major rule change allowing more motor.
And yes, after having about $3K of repair work done to the body it was painful taking the angle grinder abd making the first cut.
20201123_160624.jpg
 
I am not familiar with that engine code, but it sounds like a cool project.

By VX I meant Lancia Beta VX suoercharged 8v Lampredi twin cam

I found a video of it, there are a bunch of buld pics online somewhere, try at T124

Nick also has a Fiat 131 with a Lampredi 3200 V6 fitted, and he;s currently woring on turning a Fiat 130 Berlina into a Wagon which only 3 I think were ever made) and he's fitting a Maserati V8 to it... he's quite resourceful.

.

SteveC
 
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I misunderstood, I had the impression you were intending to custom build the complete front suspension and steering also. If that had been the case, with the added modifications to the rear half, then a complete frame may make more sense.

It definitely would have had that been the case. Scope creep has always been a problem for me. I "while I'm at it" into making a two year project into a ten year project. I can't go on doing that.

Also, I got a lot of inspiration and was made to rethink the way I build cars by watching Project Binky. A proper tubular structure is undeniably stronger, but the clever application of some bent sheet metal (what the factory did in the first place) can make a structure that is plenty stiff enough for less cost and lighter to boot.

This car needs to be:

1) Strong enough (but not excessively strong without cause);
2) Fast. Very fast;
3) Lightweight (see 1);
4) Built right but not unnecessarily expensive.

***Edit: Project cancelled due to fatherhood.*** Maybe another project can happen later.
 
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