Volvo 745 Pickup + 4.8l V8 conversion

[lookforjoe]

Back on it today after work - got some of the filler welded on the right door, shaved the right handle, and added the cap for the left (original) C pillar

lower channel for 1/4 glass

filler welded to right door opening

right door

went slower & moved around more this time, didn't get any significant panel distortion

problem with left door - with upper section flush with 1/4 - lower section sticks out pretty far. I tried adjusting the door at the hinges, without success. I'll have to try resetting the latch, and then prying the upper section outward to level it for welding. The pass door doesn't have this issue.

 

[lookforjoe]

Got a couple hours in today - spent most of the day going to Jersey to get a Volvo for my Mum

got more filler panels welded

these welds will get seam sealer & paint before I weld the door shut to the upper edges - that should help things not rust..

lower portion of crossmember now has something to weld to

inner sections (visible tangs with bolt holes) will need uniting with door skin also

figured out the top pinch weld that the rail has to attach to up to the C pillar, so that's something. Used a section of the 1/4 panel lip that was removed from the parts wagon

 

[lookforjoe]

Plan was to focus on making the tie plate for the gate opening. I got the template made, then got sidetracked on balancing out the filler panels I needed to add to the left door, and that led to making the support bracket for the antenna motor. I integrated it into the rear lower filler panel

template made

support for motor

motor drain set in bottom of door

antenna in place - I will have to raise the motor about 1-2" though - there's not enough slack in the drive cable

left lower glass channel

The other thing that has to happen is using the forward vertical of the rear door seal, the B pillar trim is in part retained by the lip of the door seals, and it is needed to seal the lower half of the rear door forward edge

overview pics - I need to weld the inner door skins to the flanges I made before I weld the gate valance in situ, or I won't be able to get to the seams to weld the lower rear arc off the sill into the opening

 

[dllubin]

That thing is starting to look like a real pickup. Can't wait to see how it looks when finished. Nice job Hussein!

 

[lookforjoe]

Cut the valance filler (16ga) - had to go back & forth trimming the outer 12" on each side - the valance actually has a dogleg to it on each side, so the depth was all wrong. I had to taper the base to get it to align. Also cut about 1.5" off the base of the valance to level it & get above the rust.

tacked in place, then I'll remove the valance & fully weld it.

The (plastic) gas tank in directly under the left side floor where the plastic plug is located - so, I may need to drop the tank before I seam weld the filler to the floor. I also have to figure out the drainage. I'm going to use this recessed area as a stowage bin, and it may or may not be sealed enough to keep water out.

going to add reinforcements on the inside, where the valance originally attached to the frame rails

 

[lookforjoe]

Productive afternoon. Got the 3 supports fabricated, the end valance-to-door tie plates for the lower valance, and the caps to close off the valance/sill. Next I can remove the valance, do all the underside welding and then move on to welding the doors closed before welding the valance to the floor & doors.

 

[lookforjoe]

Pouring rain all day today, so I worked a little on the valance, filling what were the rail cutouts, and adding reinforcement to the filler tie plate, until I ran out of Argon/CO2

 

[lookforjoe]

Picked up more Argon/CO2, then got the valance filler seam welded on the outside, add-ons welded, and added fillers on each end where one would normally access the tail lamp bulbs, to add some rigidity to what will be the C pillar

 

[lookforjoe]

Lots done today, in between the rain showers. Sealed all the seams that needed it, got the fillers made for the B pillar covers, cap & stake holder on the right.

fillers for B pillars

filler ties the B pillar cover to the door post

needs to be a clean seam - the forward edge presses against the door seal

got the tapered cap on the right B pillar figured out, just needs the joiner to the drip rail

stake holder & C pillar cap

ready to weld shut here - mostly

Have to make drain to connect these to the outside

 

[lookforjoe]

Got a fair bit done today. 2 remaining filler sections for each door, and the taper cap for the DS B pillar, then I finally got to welding a door shut. I started with the passenger door as the gap was less problematic on that one.

Welded fillers, like all the others, outside along top seam, inside otherwise, to avoid moisture traps

caulked with seam sealer, also sprayed with some green metallic & navy spray paint to approximate the unfinished paint seen on all the interior sheet metal

filler for DS B pillar cap

put some paint on the Valance as well, where it would be easier to deal with out of the wagon

prepping the door & sill edge for welding - one can see how the gap is much wider above the dogleg. I had to use two 3/32" filler rods for the upper section

weld. grind, weld. Working back & forth to keep heat down. The other thing about the MIG, I don't wear a helmet for this work, which make life easier. I just weld blind

ground it back carefully, to avoid thinning the panels

I decided to get some filler on this, even though it was only 40ºF, at least it was sunny.

sanded. Very happy with the welding, didn't take much filler at all to level the shaved handle or the dogleg

will need some minor fill work to fix a couple low spots

Welded the B pillar leading edge

ground back

A little filler. Didn't have time to sand it back today.

as it now stands. Weather is going to **** this week, back to the 20's tomorrow, so not sure what I'll be able to get done after work.

 

[lookforjoe]

Temps are still in the freezing range, so not getting much done.

I added tie plates to the inner bottom of the gate valance, so I can tie the valance to the seat tub in the outer post area

Adjusting the fit of the rail supports

Small additional tie plate for the section that will be welded on the bed side of the gate

Welded the passenger door on the inside

Issue now is that I can't weld the driver's door shut, then install the gate valance, it won't fit. So, I need to position the valance, then weld the driver's door. It means it will a be pita welding the inside door edge.

A tie plate will be made to tie to the seat tub

revising the center brace

Finally, the C pillars will need careful alignment, once the gate valance is fixed in place. There is currently a minor offset issue

once the C pillar is aligned - the gap will be gone

 

[lookforjoe]

Got a fair bit done today. Valance/gate opening is now welded in place on the pillars, anyway. The sill I will need some time on. I found I had the valance set too far back, which meant the gate seal was not sealing on the upper half, no matter how I tweaked the pillar offset. I moved the whole thing forward at the base by about an inch. That minimizes the amount of fiddling I will need to do when I join the pillar halves next.

Got the opening aligned nicely with the gate, on both sides, before tacking the upper outer ridges

welded the left inner vertical, and the left door opening

ground back & primed

some seam sealer on the welds

Then I moved on the right side

welded, ground & caulked

it's really in there for good now

problematic area - tie plates I made are now too short to mate with the back of the arch/sill- I don't want lap joints here, so it's going to get fiddly

also have to start figuring out how I'm going to cap this area but keep it a useable space

 

[lookforjoe]

Got the right C pillar tie plate cut & fitted today still requires more fixing, but good enough until I do the same on the left. The outer skin is a separate concern

Wedge to push the pillar back approx 3/8" into proper alignment with lower post for welding

 

[lookforjoe]

Had a field trip after school, so only had about an hour before sunset to get a little done - cut & fitted the left pillar junction. Primed everything due to on/off rain situation at the moment.

Now that the pillars are one with the body, I can start reworking the outer skin of the C pillars to flow into the outer panel, and the glass pinch weld to get the 1/4 window frame aligned.

 

[kmead]

I never cease to be impressed at your lack of fear.

My sketched notes to myself have become more and more cryptic as they are for me only, yours are always fun to follow despite also really being for an audience of one.

Looking good sir.

 

[Janis]

Is it as interesting to Your neighbours as to us to see your cars evolving?

 

[lookforjoe]

Is it as interesting to Your neighbours as to us to see your cars evolving?

They are. Everyday someone asks what I'm doing, or remarks on the progress

Today I figured out a number of things that I hadn't resolved.

The left & right pinch weld used for the glass retention had to be moved outward - you can see it doesn't align with the lower lip I added in the center of the door glass channel

I'm going to use Lexan for the windows. Template:

The forward edge of the C pillar cover was also an issue - I need to keep the molding recess, and have the cover sit about 1/2" or so outward. I want the weld to be in the tucked area. I had left a suitable ridge on the inside (below), however it turned out I didn't need it so I cut all but 1/4" off

After that, I cut off the existing C pillar skins, having scored the placement of the new one. I didn't want to have potential moisture traps layering the new skin over the original

The pinch weld needs to be about 3/4" out at the base, so I cut a slot about 3/4 the way up the inner skin

cut the filler pieces for the 1/4 glass frame from the spare D pillar I bought

right side tie plate welded

left welded

With those positioned, I could start to figure out the correct placement of the forward edge of the C pillar cover - I want to retain the stock moldings, so the join has to be set such that it doesn't interfere. The top 4 inches or so are set in the outer surface, then the weld seam transitions into the fold/recess

backside

top edge is fiddly - had to cut a dogleg to allow for the flush fit at the top few inches

With those figured out, I went back to the fillers needed for the slots I cut in the inner skin - card templates for the wedge

right side welded - from inside the pillar, which was easier than trying to weld it from inside the cab. I can seam-seal the welds, since I have access.

 

[lookforjoe]

Hit the 25 image limit... Should look OK when done - checking placement in the cuts here. Supposed to be much rain tomorrow - hopefully I'll get the left inner skin wedge welded Monday, then get the outer skins on. Once that happens, I can start figuring out the bed rails.

Welded a small tie plate in the top left drivers side 1/4" glass opening

and the B pillar vertical seam

 

[lookforjoe]

Rainy day, had about an hour this morning, so I got the Lexan cut to size for the 1/4 glass. Approx. 14"x19" rough dimensions

stock moldings (once modified) will work here

 

[lookforjoe]

Got the left wedge cut & welded, some seam sealer on the inner welds, and made a pair of U channels to reinforce the door skins inside the C pillar, and the rail cap over what was the right rear door

tie plate cut from 1.25" square tube, drilled a couple holes in case water sits in there for any reason

tomorrow is the only day without rain until Sunday, so I hope I can get the C pillar outer skins done.