Volvo 745 Pickup + 4.8l V8 conversion

kmead

Glutton for punishment
I would tend towards extending the elements you have already added. Keeping the rhythm and masses. The top element could be stacked and lap the lower mass versus being a cut line like I show here.

Breaking up the mass I think is a good thing as compared to the thumbnail I show below.

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lookforjoe

True Classic
I would tend towards extending the elements you have already added. Keeping the rhythm and masses. The top element could be stacked and lap the lower mass versus being a cut line like I show here.

Breaking up the mass I think is a good thing as compared to the thumbnail I show below.

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Many thanks for the time & thought you put into your posts, Karl.

The main problem with what you propose, is that I cannot get under the existing cap to weld/fill/bond that forward inner area, so reshaping that pretty much is a no-no. There is the molding that covers that inner curve. The other issue is I want the parting line created by the rail cap to visibly end within the D post when viewed from 3/4 angle - I don't like the way it appears to run off the back of the post, I really feel it needs to have a punctuation with the post.

reference pics from last page

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my intention, maybe not so clear in my sketch, was to echo the corner crease where the 1/4 ends at the taillamp. My addition would need to come forward another 1/2" or so, and drop around equal depth to the rail side, then I think it would be evident when viewed as above

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Bad weather, so minor things today. Since I couldn't work outside, we also took time to go to an estate sale - picked these up. Cheap considering there are two dog tags that are worth more than I paid for the figures 😁

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Stripped the other floor panels & removed the glue - takes literally hours. I got to the very last one before I recalled that this stuff never fully cures , so heat makes it malleable again.

I think a crackhead glued this one - it's completely coated, rather than just the required strips

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1st coat on the small panels, 2nd coat on intermediate panel, 3rd coat on main. It sucks in unevenly on the wood grain, so may need still more (than three coats)

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kmead

Glutton for punishment
Many thanks for the time & thought you put into your posts, Karl.

The main problem with what you propose, is that I cannot get under the existing cap to weld/fill/bond that forward inner area, so reshaping that pretty much is a no-no. There is the molding that covers that inner curve. The other issue is I want the parting line created by the rail cap to visibly end within the D post when viewed from 3/4 angle - I don't like the way it appears to run off the back of the post, I really feel it needs to have a punctuation with the post.

reference pics from last page

index.php


my intention, maybe not so clear in my sketch, was to echo the corner crease where the 1/4 ends at the taillamp. My addition would need to come forward another 1/2" or so, and drop around equal depth to the rail side, then I think it would be evident when viewed as above

index.php
Consider the source and its free :) worth exactly what you are paying for it

They are quick. Sorry my proposal is an over cap to encapsulate the top of the D post, wrap around and mate to the rail on the tail gate. Then on the inside of the D post where it bulges out you can make a welded cap into that to bring a vertical face up into the primary visual cap. This way the D post gets sealed on the back and top without having to weld everything together. The D post cap could be screwed down on the backside into the vertical leg of the lower D post cover you need to make in any case.

Lovely day here. Got the tractor running, aerated the yard so it looks like it is covered with goose poop and dealt with the first round of garlic mustard. Got up to 68 today.

Apparently spring is this weekend, summer starts on Tuesday.

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lookforjoe

True Classic

This makes sense, and helps with the taillamp protrusion - I do feel like the D cap needs to flare out above the light to both protect the top edge and unify the corner. I'll have to figure out how to accomplish that.

Didn't get much done today, had to deal with Ann, she broke her foot badly yesterday, going for a hike in the rain (!)

Anyway, in-between checking on her, I did the rear wheel bearings and rear brakes on her 500S.

After that, I futzed with minor things on the pickup, sanded the quarters and put some paint on them to clean the overall look for the coming weekend. There are a host of imperfections in the body work that I will have to address to get the lines right along the bed, but not now. Got paint that is supposed to be Volvo blue-green, needless to say it's not a great match to 30 year old paint, it'll do for now.

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I'll put the rear 'door' moldings back on tomorrow, that will help with the flow fore/aft

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latches came, so I'll be making a mount plate so they can go like this...

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Several things addressed today, while waiting to take Ann to the foot specialist. She managed to break 2-3 toes in the middle of her foot. Have to go for CT scan on Thurs., to evaluate whether surgery is required.

wood panels are mostly hardened, so I put them out in the sun to help the process

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spent some time fiddling with the D post cap, squaring it out with the rail. Seems to make more sense than the taper that ran into the old gate.

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Bringing it back out over the tail lamp edge somewhat.

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stock by way of comparsion

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I'll cut the top once I figure out how I'm going to transition to the top

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quite a gap - I'll have to weld a lip to the old post, to have something to weld the outer shape to

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Left it at that for now, I wanted to get the latch setup out of the way

Made left & right plates to level the inner post & provide a surface for the latch

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Welded a heavy gauge plate to the top of the tailgate corner, with urethane seam sealer where plates overlapped

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left side latch & hook welded in place.
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lookforjoe

True Classic

Not really following - use rod to make the form & butt weld sheet to that? I wouldn't want to do it that way, I don't think. Or is that to get the bevel on the top edge? I have remnants of panel edges I will use to refine the transitions from the added section to the existing. Will be more work, but should make it less rudimentary where it joins the outer panel forward edge under the rail

All I got done today was some cleanup on the C pillars around the transition to the bed, to make it prettier for Carlisle, and welded the second latch in place

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kmead

Glutton for punishment
Not really following - use rod to make the form & butt weld sheet to that? I wouldn't want to do it that way, I don't think. Or is that to get the bevel on the top edge? I have remnants of panel edges I will use to refine the transitions from the added section to the existing. Will be more work, but should make it less rudimentary where it joins the outer panel forward edge under the rail
Yes it is a way to give yourself extra material you can grind a consistent radius to transition from the ‘vertical’ to the horizontal. Brazing works very nicely for this as it is lower temp and easier to work. Trying to make a consistent forms from scraps can be difficult. It’s just a thought.

I am sure the folks at Carlisle will enjoy your “tractor”. It is turning out very well indeed.

You will likely want to add some extra drain holes so we don’t hear you sloshing your way up the road :) kidding.
 

kmead

Glutton for punishment
Sorry I was in a rush.

The idea being to create the outside perimeter you want for the top of the D pillar. Then weld in or braze in a rod and then a cap to give you some material to later sand/grind into so you can create a consistent radius around the top of the D pillar. One could achieve much of the same thing by hammer and dolly a radius around the perimeter of the vertical face gathering material at the corners, hammer and then weld a cap onto the perimeter to join them together.

Brazing is nice because it is lower temperature application and softer material to rework.

Just some thoughts.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Bringing this back to the fore - I will need to work on this aspect ASAP. I wanted to do it prior to the drive, since thundershowers are expected both Fri/Sat, however I haven't welded the hooks to the right side rail, so I think I need to wait. We'll see. Maybe I can bang it out tomorrow, and glue the hem instead of having it sewn...

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I bought canvas & vinyl from Big Duck Canvas about 6 weeks ago:

1267-CAR-BRN 12oz Brown canvas - 2 yds
V18-Tan FR 18oz coated vinyl (fire retardant) Tan - 2 yds

from an eBay vendor:

20 3/8" stainless (rivet style) Studs
20 "gypsy' Black Snaps
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Took Ann for her CT scan early this afternoon. The foot doctor called back before 5 with good news- surgery should not be required, as long as she is careful & keeps all weight off it for the next week until next x-ray & appraisal.

Taking care of odds & ends, couldn't get into anything in depth. Added the additional tie downs, using all the seat belt anchors

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the middle ones may not be of much use, but you never know.

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side ones will work. I need to figure out how to resolve the forward floor section. Either make a whole new panel, or add extensions for the side opening, and some sort of support for the leading edge

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lookforjoe

True Classic
Started randomly blowing the #9 fuse since the weekend drive - directionals, power windows, AC, shift lock, seatbelt warning. So, I started disconnecting things to figure it out. Got to the point where the fuse blew just turning the key to run position. I moved the wire (9.3) that fed the AC & shift lock to another fuse, and the problem moved with it. All that was left was to unplug the shift lock harness, and finally the AC head unit (PITA). Today I swapped out the AC head unit, and the problem went away. I still moved the feed wire from Fuse 9 to Fuse 10, as that fuse governs defrost, heated mirrors & sunroof, so nothing that is as annoying to lose whilst driving. EDIT - this was due to me repurposing an AC feed for the PTC heater element - that's why I couldn't find the fault, I never made a schematic with the revised wiring :(

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turned 220,000 miles today

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