Volvo 745 Pickup + 4.8l V8 conversion

Thanks for responding - more motion, not more force
Well at least you don't have the issue of two things that would work against each other to deal with. I suppose there are practical limits on how far you can shorten the TB lever or lengthen the pedal lever. Hopefully you can make work without needing to add another lever somewhere to accelerate the cable motion.


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drilled a new hole inboard of the existing, pressed another ball stud in place, and confirmed that the butterfly travel was appropriate


so, I cut the lever & welded the ball stud in place

all good!

I added a port to the adaptor for the idle valve, positioned so a stock idle valve hose (that normally goes up to the intake) would fit. The other element here is that the idle valve I will switch to when I convert to LH2.4 from Regina has a larger ID outlet, so this hose will work for that.

Realized after running it like this that this layout did not work....

I reinforced the pivot plate to prevent the shaft flexing in throttle operation

fitted a 3" 45º tube with silicone couplers . I may make a cleaner fitting one at some point.

Moved the idle valve port to the aluminum pipe, since it needs to be pre-throttle plate to actually do anything 🤪 - and repurposed the larger port for vacuum source for the vacuum pump


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Reworked the last thing I moved - the vacuum pump line - I should never do work that requires too much thought when I'm sick. Had to put the hard line back where I had it originally - the whole point was that it maintain vacuum on the heater circuit & brake booster.



Used the truck for it's intended purpose today - borrowed a 40ft ladder to cut some limbs



don't have any spare dash light bulbs (1363149?) - so I modded some extra LED's from my X1/9 dash build to fit. Checking the price on those now - I'm glad I did.



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Back on the roof work before the weather goes downhill - the transition from the forward to the rearward section needed some filler work to ease the line shift. Cut both sides back to the metal where the filler was added, and splodged it on, going heavier than the first time to avoid the soft edges & dip I had left

DS - didn't need much on this side

PS was the bad one, so I focused on addressing the worst of that this afternoon


Hard to be sure without some gloss on it to accent the ridge, however I think this one is mostly done



Found a couple of these buggers in the yard after cutting the acorn tree limbs - I thought, wow that has a cool set of markings, and my wife pointed out its the invasive Spotted Lanternfly - so I need to kill them all!


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This stuff takes so many hours. Spent about 7 hours on it today. Sand, fill, sand, clean, prime, sand, spot putty, sand, clean, prime, repeat.

I think I said this, the roof work was to clean up the transitions from the forward roof section to the narrower, more acute angled tailgate section. Far from perfect, but it will do, and mainly will be protected from the elements over the winter.
Side work is to clean up transition from what was the rear door into the 1/4 - there is a soft sweep along the top edge with the actual door, so that needed to be raised & blended into the line of the 1/4 edge, and I had a couple dings to fill. Hopefully wrap that up tomorrow

need to sand the clear & do another coat






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Clear coated the 1/4's. Have to wait a few days at least before I compound them. Hard to photograph, but there are still a couple minor ripples in the driver's side, by the wheel arch end of what was the rear door. Pass side looks good to me.




top edges look pretty good



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Started fixing the hood paint. The clear coat is mostly gone....


I don't want to strip the hood, so I sanded the forward edge of the clear, and sprayed several layers of primer, sand, prime to fill the pock marks in the clear that's left. More sanding & primer to level the transition from existing base coat to the clear on the front edge. Couple of rust spots to address, and a few dents that I may or may not bother fixing.



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Figured I can't use the stock moldings for the 1/4's, they just don't look right, as the rear door molding curves in & then out at the 1/4. So' I've been trying to find an aftermarket universal molding that I could modify to fit. Finally settled on this: 1.75"x .625", cannot find a narrower version in this height.


I have to cut it lengthwise to 1", and step it for the leading area. I'll see how that goes.


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Problems, problems. Cleaned & sanded the roof clear coat, masked off the roof & did the 2nd & 3rd layers of clear. That all went fine & looks decent.

I had to remove the blower motor, as I could hear acorns rattling inside the casing. Some rodent was making a nest in there. :( I vacuumed out as much of the debris as I could. I think I will need to remove the cowl cover & clean it out from above also. To access the blower I had to remove the ECU bracket. I had to move the car to get the shop vac in there, and when I started the car it ran like a bag of ****, heavy fuel smell. When I was done vacuuming, the motor would not start - I thought somehow running it with the Regina box not grounded had created an issue...


Checked for spark, checked pump relay switching, etc., couldn't find anything amiss. Pulled the plugs - they weren't particularly wet. Cranked the motor & fuel sprayed out the cylinders - much more from #4, and the turbo flange was now wet with fuel (from the inside). I lifted the rail with injectors, unplugged the injector relay, and when cranking fuel pours out of #4 injector (24lb Bosch EV1's), so it's ****ed. I put in another set of injectors (30lb Volvo reds, since that is all I have available besides NA injectors) & lowered the regulated pressure.

Got it running, but it's definitely off & the WB02 doesn't read, so maybe it's fuel soaked. Have to see if it clears out. Getting codes 2-3-3 & 2-2-1.

See how it goes tomorrow.


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Put in a set of 22.5lb (0-280-155-832) Volvo injectors (with regulated pressure raised to 50psi) - runs much smoother now. Changed the oil & filter, to be safe, it dumped so much fuel. Does look like the WB02 sensor is dead though.

Sanded & compounded the 1/4 panels after that.

The wobbles all show up now it's shiny, but I'm leaving it as is



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Worked on the 1/4 moldings today
The molding I bought is 1.75" x .625", I cut the molding to 56" lengths & tapered the width from 1.25" forward - approx .875" at the rear

I used the angle grinder for most of this

stepped to fit over the reinforced sheet metal of the door/C pillar area


going to go along these lines


will do a little cleanup on the wrap around & leading edge

have to cut off the molding clip pins so the molding will lay flat

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Cut the second molding today, cut off the factory clip mounting pins, and fitted the moldings.

pins in question, 6 or 7 per side

primed & painted the ground pin base after removal

added additional 3M VHB tape to the cut moldings

moldings in place. Slight wave in the forward area is the base of the original C pillar.

The issue here was that I intended to use the original belt moldings from the wagon, however I didn't take into account the bow where the rear door molding tapers inward at the C pillar, and the 1/4 molding did much the same. It just looked wrong. A a result of that decision, I had this small bump out (the base of the original C pillar) to deal with when fitting the new molding, hence the cut on the underside



in other news I bought a larger turbo, and a 3" mandrel section to make a new DP to go with. This will all happen when I do the LH2.4 conversion

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More pics of the moldings. I also changed out the belt moldings for the later 960 version, more slender, cleaner profile

driver's side



later moldings cut to fit (earlier one off car, to show profile change)
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Working on cleaning up details. Took the rear panels out, cut out where the door lock push buttons used to be & added the vents that used to be behind the C pillars. Also wired the tweeters that go in the rear pillars while the panels were out. Have to finish that part later.





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Worked on the C pillar covers. Stripped the carpet & put foam & vinyl on them. Color is not as close as I would like.

had to remove & reinstall the tweeters, one was perforated, so I swapped it out with one from my old V70XC



Got some wrinkles in the compound curves. I can live with that.