Volvo 745 Pickup + 4.8l V8 conversion

lookforjoe

True Classic
Been working on house wiring the past few days, so not much going on here. I did make a decision on back end of the sunroof tub. To keep the depth to a minimum, I cut the original tub even with the cutoff rails to serve as the rear brace. I'm going to make a wall on each side to close off the gutter. I tapped the cut rails to accept M6 bolts, those will secure the end caps (while the epoxy sets), as well prevent the cable guides from walking out the rails


original_89f9fb87-9603-416f-a115-20b92d8a0fb4_PXL_20220118_215034132.jpg


PXL_20220118_214053623.jpg


PXL_20220118_214057798.jpg


The rear mount points will need to be reworked - as it stands they won't hold up

PXL_20220118_215050006.jpg


maybe I can reunite the cut end with the rail, if not...

PXL_20220118_215150764.jpg


....the offset from the rail to the mount plate is 14mm - so I'd need to make spacers so I can drill new mounts just behind the cut ones

original_91de7715-2a3b-4f9e-acee-b6dc81c3e9fb_PXL_20220118_215129401.jpg
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Haven't touched either car. Way too cold for outside work now. Just contemplating ways to address the tie in of D to B pillar roof sections, rear floor covers, and working on the living room ceiling & fixture wiring. I had to run all new wiring & set it up for 3way switches, there was nothing useable up there. Have to chisel out that messed up area of the chimney & install a proper period brick & mortar to patch it. Still have to remove the section of lathe & plaster on the right of the chimney.

PXL_20220127_194315935.jpg


sketches for wagon work..

PXL_20220126_181002896.jpg


PXL_20220127_162417017.jpg


PXL_20220123_210917467.jpg

PXL_20220127_162410530.jpg

PXL_20220131_141945585.jpg


PXL_20220126_181119188.jpg


PXL_20220131_141956020.jpg


PXL_20220131_163224742.jpg


PXL_20220131_163235164.jpg


PXL_20220131_163204712.jpg
PXL_20220131_142006097.jpg
 
Last edited:

rcutclif

True Classic
Awesome build! Here's a pic of the Saab Ute I built with some friends a few years back. I took it to the grassroots motorsports $2k challenge and the guy I sold it to took it rallycrossing and I got this photo and some others from him. I think it might be 4 wheels off, so it is one of my favorite photos of the car.

My build was quite a bit rougher than what you are doing, but for the sunroof I cut a thin plexiglass panel and used construction adhesive to seal up the back of the tray where the tray was cut. I left the glass installed (and the motors too) so the sunroof would still tip up in back if desired but it would not slide backward. The tray didn't leak even though it had been cut in half and was only connected to the 2 front drains.

RipShaub_2018-5486-ZF-1656-60739-1-001-006.jpg
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Awesome build! Here's a pic of the Saab Ute I built with some friends a few years back. I took it to the grassroots motorsports $2k challenge and the guy I sold it to took it rallycrossing and I got this photo and some others from him. I think it might be 4 wheels off, so it is one of my favorite photos of the car.

My build was quite a bit rougher than what you are doing, but for the sunroof I cut a thin plexiglass panel and used construction adhesive to seal up the back of the tray where the tray was cut. I left the glass installed (and the motors too) so the sunroof would still tip up in back if desired but it would not slide backward. The tray didn't leak even though it had been cut in half and was only connected to the 2 front drains.

Nice!! Good to note a similar process worked for you with the sunroof.

I see you also added a tonneau cover for the bed - do you have specifics on the grade/quality snaps you utilized? I'm seeing quite a range of products, no way to gauge quality simply based on cost....
 

rcutclif

True Classic
It looks like a tonneau but it is actually thick rubber mat (from a hardware store, usually used for putting on your floor under exercise equipment or similar) that I used large head rivets to attach to the bed rails. I just wanted a bit of protection for the bed rails since I commonly put stuff back there and I wanted to protect the rattle can paint.

So unfortunately I don't have good recommendations for you on snaps.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Temps went into the high 40's today, so I got the old sunroof tub out, and fitted the V90 tub

The sheet metal 700 tub has a foam seal and uses shouldered self tapping screws to prevent them either over compressing the seal, or hitting the outer roof skin

PXL-20220209-231450654.jpg


The V90 aluminum frame tub uses a lip seal, I didn't get all the seal parts, so I went through my Fiat seals & found a section that would work for the forward/leading edge, took a few trial runs fitting the tub to determine which version seal strip would work. Had to find shorter screws for the tub since the shouldered ones don't work.

PXL-20220209-220817088.jpg


A little butyl went on the inner side of the overlap area (gap) where the deflector pivot is to be installed

PXL-20220209-220821180.jpg


With the tub in place, the lip seal fills the void along the sides & front

PXL-20220209-222623913.jpg


The rear edge has no seal, so I need to figure that one out later

PXL-20220209-222636072.jpg


The leading edge uses differing mount points, so I drilled the flange for two extra retainer screws on each side

PXL-20220209-222700886.jpg


Sides use the same mount points

PXL-20220209-222708510.jpg


back edge is about 1.75" from sunroof opening rear edge, so that will be the guide point for getting the tailgate cross member/ rear tub as far forward as possible.

PXL-20220209-225326112.jpg


PXL-20220209-230754881.jpg



Have to make an offset bracket to support the motor mount

PXL-20220209-231038828.jpg


outside

PXL-20220209-224512026.jpg


view from inside. Much better than the steel panel :)

PXL-20220209-224457456.jpg
 
Last edited:

kmead

Glutton for punishment
I like your notes to yourself.

Nice work. I found on my sunroofs I almost always used the tip up feature and rarely the fully open feature once they went to glass panels. Short the up, out and over versions found on some Japanese and GM cars this is about as nice as it can get. And all ’factory’ too, or I should say Hussien factory :)
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Figured out the sunroof motor support bracket - a piece of flat 3/16" stock flush with the existing tie plate will do the trick

PXL_20220210_163039710.jpg


welded in place

PXL_20220210_171702370.jpg


PXL_20220210_171709981.jpg


Cars are pre-wired for power roof conversion - just have to add the switch. Have to fish the motor harness out of the A pillar/dash (EDIT - and run harness up the A pillar - turns out that's part of the accessory kit)

PXL_20220210_163220561.jpg


PXL_20220210_163243215.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
I like your notes to yourself.

Nice work. I found on my sunroofs I almost always used the tip up feature and rarely the fully open feature once they went to glass panels. Short the up, out and over versions found on some Japanese and GM cars this is about as nice as it can get. And all ’factory’ too, or I should say Hussien factory :)
Thank you.

I'm also thinking I can cut at least another inch, inch & a half off the back of the tub, since the gate cables don't need to move at all, it really won't matter - that will give me another inch shorter roof line

PXL_20220118_214057798.jpg


The lack of webbing on the bridge shouldn't matter, as there is no rearward movement of the panel, nor an inner sliding screen

PXL_20220119_221603174 copy.jpg


PXL_20220118_215050006.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Thursday night / Friday morning we had some very heavy rainfall. Friday evening, we decided to go downtown to eat, and I wanted to take the wagon, since I don't worry about parking with it :)

By the time we parked (about 10 min or so driving) we both had wet butts. Turns out the glass roof panel leaks like a sieve. The sealant between the glass & metal frame is gone on both sides - tried to photo it, but basically it just meant there is a large gap from water to travel under these, then into the inner frame lip & dump directly onto the seats.

PXL_20220219_155640755.jpg


I cleaned it all up, got rid of the minor surface rust in two corners, and applied butyl around the perimeter, pressed into the gap on either side

PXL_20220219_160352887.jpg


PXL_20220219_160151016.jpg


PXL_20220219_160147183.jpg


Put the seal back on (backwards, it turns out) - opening was supposed to be at the rear. (EDIT - maybe not - I have it the same way in the earlier pic from first install).

PXL_20220219_171351218.jpg


Poured water over it, and it looked good - until about 20min later & then I saw it seeping through. So, better than before, but not fixed. I removed the panel again, stripped all the butyl, and prepped the edge for a good silicone sealer.

I also decided to drop the tub & chop off the back inch or so, and recap the new ends

PXL_20220219_202333986.jpg


I also drilled a new side mount toward the rear, since I may have to chop the existing rear mount off altogether. used a 12mm barrel as a spacer on each side

PXL_20220219_212827665.jpg


PXL_20220219_212832788.jpg


Around this time, we got a National Weather Emergency Alert for a sudden extreme snow fall - and sure enough, right after I put a piece of plywood over the roof hole, we got a rapid downfall.

I put the tub back in anyway, and reattached the drains.

I now have the rear of the roof panel just over an inch from the roof opening, so I can shorten the overall depth of the cab by that much. The point of all this finagling is to get the tailgate as far forward as possible so I don't (hopefully) have to chop the gate the way others have to get it to swing clear of the wheel arches.

The silver marker line is 1.5" from the roof lip. The cross (drain) bridge sits about 1/4" or so forward of it. The aluminum end caps I will cut down & clean up when I drop the tub to weld the chopped roof. Much happier with getting that extra inch reduction.

PXL_20220219_214438728.jpg


I will be chopping out the steel cross brace back to that 1.5" marker. The rear "D" tub will sit right behind that, so no need for it in terms of structural roof support.

PXL_20220219_214448355.jpg
 
Last edited:

Datsun Guy

Daily Driver
Nice!! Good to note a similar process worked for you with the sunroof.

I see you also added a tonneau cover for the bed - do you have specifics on the grade/quality snaps you utilized? I'm seeing quite a range of products, no way to gauge quality simply based on cost....

Best way to attach a tonneau seems to be either a rigid bar at the rear that clips in place and Velcro on the sides, or a plastic spine sewn in the edges that engaged a slot, like a French cleat.

I miss my XC70, last of the bricks. My wife has a late C70, nice but alot of cowl shake, and a V60xc, but it's not the same.
 

lookforjoe

True Classic
Started removing sections in preparation for cutting the roof off - had to pre-drill the welds before using the spot-weld bit, otherwise it liked to walk.

PXL_20220221_161119360.jpg


Angle grinder died before I completed one cut - had to go buy a new one. Whilst I was at Home Depot getting a new Dewalt, Ann was at Harbor Freight & found a cheap one on closeout for $10.97, so now I have two.

PXL_20220221_172409825.jpg


PXL_20220221_180653640.jpg

This is so when I attach the D pillar to the forward section, I can weld the outer skin, then weld the (modified) inner section back in place

PXL_20220221_181200658.jpg


PXL_20220221_161108277.jpg


rear inner plates have a deeper offset than the forward beams - I'll have to modify the form to tie it to the beam over the B pillar

PXL_20220221_173649663.jpg


After that I removed a bunch of trim panels, & cut off the seat back mounts, ground back the welds & primed for now

PXL_20220221_222542665.jpg


PXL_20220221_222528321.jpg


then I removed the sunroof tub once more, so I could cut the roof opening reinforcement back

cut about 1.25" from opening, along the center line

PXL_20220221_204341491.jpg


managed to do it without cutting the roof skin

PXL_20220221_204737614.jpg


PXL_20220221_204734061.jpg


saving all the tie plates until I'm done - don't know what I may need yet

PXL_20220221_205247710.jpg


Tub lip is 41.5" at rear

PXL_20220221_221303540.jpg


41.25" behind sunroof. Close enough.

PXL_20220221_221403413.jpg


PXL_20220221_205252457.jpg


Modified & re-riveted the sunroof tub rear tieplate

PXL_20220221_211624562.jpg


PXL_20220221_213012061.jpg


folded extra at 90º to give a little more rigidity - roof back in. Bridge panel sits forward of the cut line. My plan is to cut the roof skin about 1.5" from the opening, and have the rear section skin tuck under the lip

PXL_20220221_215418431.jpg


PXL_20220221_215421950.jpg



PXL_20220221_215534026.jpg


PXL_20220221_230849149.jpg


Another welder purchase. Unlike my Forney MIG - this one works properly with shielding gas - so I'll be using this for all the plug welds.

PXL_20220217_204007452.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Note - both sunroof opening & tub are curved forward at the outer edge - so depth of transverse cut through roof has to be measured from outer edges to allow for the curve, and clearance for the hinge bolt heads off the outer rear of the sunroof frame, which is rectangular.

reference pics
PXL-20220105-182249434.jpg


Screen-Shot-2021-12-29-at-9-41-47-AM.png


PXL_20220109_174214976.jpg


PXL-20220221-215421950.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
Lots of pics today - temps went to about 60º - so I went to town on the wagon

taped up the cut lines with Ann's help
PXL_20220223_152717835.jpg


left an extra inch at the front, in case there are issues with the curvature of the tub

PXL_20220223_152730557.jpg


removed the door & rear glass

PXL_20220223_161157487.jpg


PXL_20220223_164206418.jpg


tailgate removed

PXL_20220223_180624657.jpg


cut the rear section first

PXL_20220223_182711705.jpg


PXL_20220223_183236418.jpg


getting ready to cut beams on forward cut

PXL_20220223_190041162.jpg


a little cleanup on the D pillar

PXL_20220223_183948960.jpg


PXL_20220223_190049693.jpg


PXL_20220223_190103538.jpg


removing the C pillar to possibly use as part of B pillar

PXL_20220223_192021651.jpg


PXL_20220223_192033798.jpg


main roof section and door frames removed

PXL_20220223_193751418.jpg


PXL_20220223_194622508.jpg


PXL_20220223_194634060.jpg


PXL_20220223_194648456.jpg


D pillar will go forward at least two inches from this position

PXL_20220223_195046181.jpg


PXL_20220223_195056772.jpg


Ridge along 1/4 panel needs to flow into the B pillar here. Door tops will need filling to remove that 3/4" gap

PXL_20220223_202103402.jpg


PXL_20220223_202111103.jpg


PXL_20220223_202612043.jpg


1/4 rail will be along these lines

PXL_20220223_202651925.jpg


removed the rear door hardware & regulators

PXL_20220223_211637895.jpg


test fitting the chopped tailgate I removed from a 960 last year

PXL_20220223_215143731.jpg
 
Last edited:

lookforjoe

True Classic
There appears to be something missing.

Hope the weather isn’t too brutal over the coming days.

What did I miss?

Today I worked a few hours on shaving 1/2" or so off the depth of the reinforcement tub. I really, really want to minimize the depth of the cab to avoid cutting the tailgate.

First step was to cut off the 3/4" deep tub weld lip. I'll seam weld it later

PXL_20220224_152811466.jpg


PXL_20220224_174604211.jpg


Then I sliced a pie section out of the tub ends, where they flare forward about 1/2" relative to the flat point - the hinge flange area.

PXL_20220224_170853190.jpg


ends sit about 1/2" forward of the center bow. I considered modding the tub to make it all that 1/2" setback, but that's just too much work for an extra 1/2". No practical way to weld the hinge support areas if I did that anyway.

PXL_20220224_170947733.jpg


PXL_20220224_170947733-2.jpg


That allowed me to chop another 3/8" off the depth of the roof skin. I can't cut this side down much more - maybe another 1/4" - as I won't be able to use the flange tool on it if I cut more than that

PXL_20220224_192437110.jpg


The weld flange it creates is 1/2" deep. The spot welder cannot get closer than 3/8" off the tub wall at the shallowest point, so another 1/4" cut would put the spot weld in the center of the weld flange at 3/8" off the wall.

PXL_20220224_192639354.jpg


The current plan is to step this skin so it fits under the forward section, and tucks very slightly between the forward roof skin and the sunroof tub reinforcement I left in place - simulated here - tucks under about 1/4", which would allow me to cut the forward roof skin a little under 1.5" from the opening.

PXL_20220224_194532892.jpg


Tested the flange tool on some Volvo sheet metal scraps to see if it punches a deep enough offset - hard to photograph, but it looks good & will allow for weld thru seam sealer in the joint

PXL_20220224_193441550.jpg


everything packed up so I could get the X1/9 back inside before the snowfall overnight

PXL_20220224_194730021.jpg


PXL_20220224_201302123.jpg
 

kmead

Glutton for punishment
Suitably impressed. Must be winter break.

Very cool and nerves of steel and certainly a lot of careful cutting of steel.
 
Top