Volvo C30 AWD Conversion

So, turns out that the primary problem with installing the Volvo software, was the fact that it does not work is home premium versions of Windows, period. That was figured out, I upgraded it to Windows 7 professional, and then with a few other minor updates I was able to install VIDA . That happened yesterday, so today I hooked it up to the car, and ran the quick tank test- which pressurizes the whole system and runs the various pumps to check the system operation.
Later in the afternoon I figured out how to take screenshots in Windows, so if I have to do this again it will be proper screenshots 🤪

Connected to the vehicle system😃
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There is absolutely nothing that is intuitive about the Volvo software, so unless you know where to find s*** there's no way you could ever do any of these tests. It was only because I had been shown once before years ago and taken screenshots of the tabs that were necessary to go to, that I had any clue. The results are not obvious since the test runs for over 15 minutes and then just keeps going even though it's not testing anymore if that makes sense.
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Came back with a minor leakage error code
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But, that only shows as pending with the tank test done, it was ready for inspection so I took it to the station pronto. On route. I got another pending code for the MAF again, thankfully it didn't set a CEL until after I left the station with a valid inspection!!
But now I really wanted to figure out what was causing the error code. So I took the plenum back off and the various other hoses that could potentially caused the minor vacuum leak

Thoroughly cleaned to the mating surfaces again
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Verified as best possible that all the hose attachments on the plenum were fully secured.
This one is actually at the EVAP Purge valve, the elbow had pulled off the plastic line and I shoved it back on. This time. I actually super glued the two together.
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I drove the car pretty aggressively after that, as in the past that would bring the check engine light back on pretty damn quick. No pending code so far so, hopefully it's actually fixed now as well as inspected 😁
 
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The MAF code never went away. If I can't get the tuner to rework the tune for the Enem Y21 cams, I will have to source a pair of stock camshafts & take the head back apart. I can't live with it setting a code every f'ing time I drive the car.

In other news the car developed a new nasty habit. On occasion, I will start the car - engine starts OK, however NOTHING works - no AC, no PS, no windows, no nothing. The last time this happened was a week and a half ago when we were back downstate for DR's appointments - on the hottest day so far - over 100ºF in the shade. Of course, with Ann in the car, turning it off & back on did not fix it - I had to cycle it 1/2 dozen times before the accessories can back, so we drove the 3 1/2 hours home without stopping.

My son suggested I check the fusible links - the main terminal is split into two legs & each one has a fusible link, apparently rated at 150A. One feeds the starter, the other feeds the main fuse/relay box.

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I have a used link/cable from the S40 AWD parts car, but it's a PITA to remove the fusebox & I have no way of confirming it's operational. So, I cut off the link, crimped a new terminal end on the cable & used a 175A Megaval fuse.
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The MAF code never went away. If I can't get the tuner to rework the tune for the Enem Y21 cams, I will have to source a pair of stock camshafts & take the head back apart. I can't live with it setting a code every f'ing time I drive the car.

In other news the car developed a new nasty habit. On occasion, I will start the car - engine starts OK, however NOTHING works - no AC, no PS, no windows, no nothing. The last time this happened was a week and a half ago when we were back downstate for DR's appointments - on the hottest day so far - over 100ºF in the shade. Of course, with Ann in the car, turning it off & back on did not fix it - I had to cycle it 1/2 dozen times before the accessories can back, so we drove the 3 1/2 hours home without stopping.

My son suggested I check the fusible links - the main terminal is split into two legs & each one has a fusible link, apparently rated at 150A. One feeds the starter, the other feeds the main fuse/relay box.

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I have a used link/cable from the S40 AWD parts car, but it's a PITA to remove the fusebox & I have no way of confirming it's operational. So, I cut off the link, crimped a new terminal end on the cable & used a 175A Megaval fuse.
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Do these cars use a load reduction system to reduce power use during starting? Many Euro cars did. This would cut power to all accessories when starting to maximize amperage. I know VW did this using a relay. Could this be a factor?

I believe this is referred to as the ‘accessory relay’ in a Volvo. There are other references to failures in the CEM causing this.
 
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Do these cars use a load reduction system to reduce power use during starting? Many Euro cars did. This would cut power to all accessories when starting to maximize amperage. I know VW did this using a relay. Could this be a factor?

I believe this is referred to as the ‘accessory relay’ in a Volvo. There are other references to failures in the CEM causing this.

They may - but this is a global failure of everything besides the starter/EMS. I drove around today, probably 100 miles with multiple start/stops. The problem is gone with the fusible link replaced.
 
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