Volvo C30 AWD Conversion

[lookforjoe]

Installed new rear hubs today.

Took screenshots from VIDA, since one cannot screenshot or export as PDF from VIDA, at least on mine install.

Haldex overview & CAN signal I/O description.

Thread with discussion of manual controller for the Haldex

Not sure there is any point cutting a hole for the PS (main) sender, as that cannot be removed unless you also lift the DS sender to release the cross tube and level sender wiring. Looking at the floor, the PS unit would have to be cut right where the seat belt mount is located. It's also not a flat area. I dunno. Not sure I want to mess with this now.

 

[lookforjoe]

DEM connectors & bypass connectors
Male 2 pin = 1J0 973 802
Female 1J0 973 702 (stock wiring )

Male 8 pin = 1J0 973 814
Female 1J0 973 714 (stock wiring)

Yazaki 7114-4102-02 Male 1.5mm
7116-4102-02 Female 1.5mm
7114-4152-02 Male 2.8mm
7116-4152-02 Female 2.8mm


12-pole Black Harness connectors:
TE connectivity 1452303-1 (body side, Male) & 1452299-1 (subframe side, Female)

Terminals (sealed):
Yz 090II or TS090 and TS187 series

Yazaki 7114-4025/26/27 Male 2.3mm
7116-4025/26/27 Female 2.3mm
Sumitomo 8100_0463/4/5 Male 4.8mm
8100-0661/0 /0468 Female 4.8mm

 

[lookforjoe]

Working on the fuel sender tool. I found a couple listed as applicable, but they didn't fit. Not spending another $60-80 looking for others, so I started making my own.

Took a bunch of measurements, as part of determining whether a Mercedes tool would work.

Cut up some aluminum square tube, and a section of 6" tubing.

Tack welded the tabs. Have to add two more. It's around 25º in the garage, so a PITA to weld aluminum.

 

[fastx19]

You are a brave man. Every time I get close to anything with Fuel, such as the tank, it makes me pucker. Yeah, I know it is drained of gas, etc. but still... Looking good.

 

[lookforjoe]

Found out today that the two tank senders are different sizes. The main sender is a little over 6.5" OD, the secondary sender is approx 6.3". Fortunately, I ( purely by accident) used a box section to make the tabs that is deep enough to fit both sender caps.

 

[lookforjoe]

Finished the tool for now

 

[kmead]

Looks like an innocent T Square gave it’s life to the cause

 

[lookforjoe]

Looks like an innocent T Square gave it’s life to the cause

I have 5 or 6 old Aluminum T squares I got from our tech department - the kids bend the crap out of the ruler, rendering them useless as measurign tools.

 

[lookforjoe]

Had a few hours this afternoon to work on the AWD subframe & Haldex.

Removed pinion flange

Removed Haldex pump and filter. Has 95k, so I'm replacing the pump.

dismantle pump housing

new pump going in, new orings & shaft seal

housing cap & rotor/vane

cap with new orings on the screws

filter screen back on, new outer orings

New Filter & cap

Torque flange to 80ft/lb, bitch to counterhold

Replaced the three diff bushings, donor was auto trans, which uses different composition bushings

Torque bush - absolute PITA to extract

pressing in the two rear bushings (plastic cage) - using an old Volvo 240 tool - for the large trailing arm bushings, didn't think I'd ever use this again

Then filled the Diff & AOC:

Angle Gear and Rear Diff fluid # 31259380 .7L
Active On Demand Coupling fluid # 31367941 .7L

 

[lookforjoe]

Drained the Haldex & rear diff yesterday, neither holds much over .75L, but take forever to get it out, they only provide fill plugs.

Added the connectors for the new Haldex pump

ready to accept the DEM

 

[lookforjoe]

Got some prep work done today.

BG, Rear Diff & Trans PN's for future reference

Changed the input shaft seal, and AG inner shaft seal

Changed the AG oil # 31259380

Repaired a nick in the left rear axle boot - these are not serviceable - have to replace entire axle.

then heat shrink

Back in the subframe

Removed/drilled out a broken heat shield retaining screw from the gas tank (very carefully) & epoxied a ss machine screw in it's place

Installed the new main sender/fuel pump, and tidied up the tank ready for install

modifed the left trans bracket following Jimmy's (on C30Crew) approach - removed 1/4" off the top & reshaped to match as best possible

using cut off piece to check contour

additional 1/8" will be made up using the flanges cut from an old mount.

Getting closer. Getting closer. Reinstalled the Haldex harness, EVAP bracket, shield & EVAP box

Found anothe hiccup - the trans casing was damaged in whatever accident put the donor in the JY. There is a crack in the rearward torque mount position. I will have to grind & weld that

Tomorrow I'm going to try & get the trans & AG installed.

 

[lookforjoe]

Removed all the rear suspension, filler neck and fuel cell and exhaust today - didn't want to start dismantling the front (which requires battery removal) until I'm done with the rear and the interior wiring

Took out the shocks,brakes and trailing arms first, then dropped the subframe. EVAP system has to be disconnected during the lowering process

EVAP connections

Some rust to be addressed on the frame rails (both sides) where the main subframe attachment sits

Disconnecting feed & vent lines from front edge of tank, remove circlip retaining filler neck boot inside filler door (not shown)

support tank, then remove the 3 strap bolts

Disconnect electrical harness inside car, under rear seat

Tank out

Filler neck comparison, L= FWD, R=AWD

Frame & floor area needs attention - many of the seams have corrosion on the edges.

Cleaned & painted the AWD propshaft supports

Test fit - rear

Forward - DP misalignment obvious here

DP will need dropping - needs to be in alignment with this

Mount pin will need relocating

I'll fabricate a new mid section from 3" SS, modding the FWD one I made is not worth the effort.

Going to run out of space...

 

[Tom Ginefra]

Project Binky "Hussein Style" ! You are unbelievable!
I don't know what's more impressive...the fact that you have the ambition and the skills to take on a project of this scope and complexity, or that you are managing to do this all in your home garage. I am blown away, and can't wait to see the finished results.

 

[lookforjoe]

Thank you, Tom.

Took care of the rear floor pan caulk, seal & paint today. Hopefully tomorrow I can start putting the rear back together, weather permitting.

Sealer on the seams, then caulked, followed by gloss coat

Chip Protection (3M Rocker Schutz) before the top coat

 

[lookforjoe]

Had time after work before the rain set in to get the fuel tank back in

Minimal amount of fiddling later, 4 mount bolts in place, exhaust heat shield situated

Fuel feed & vent lines reattached

Cut & flatten rear shield where it will interfere with AWD subframe (that version just doesn't have that extended area)

Fuel filler back in. Pouring with rain at this point, have to pack up

Back inside, installed the Eibach lowering springs from the C30

Laying out the exhaust. I'll be making a 3" version of the straighter-run AWD version

 

[DanielForest]

Gee,Hussein. I do appreciate all the good work you are doing. You know that we had the same cars (x1/9 and C30) but I had to let go the C30. Computer went bad and the dealer didn't want to play with used ones. So I needed a $1500 comptuer + the time for the tech to program it. All that fot a 350 000 km car Worthing $1500...

But when I look for an awd C30, I search for a V50 T5 Awd. Job already done by the factory to convert it to awd, so I could use my time and my money to upgrade the car. I guess you didn't like the S40 of V50?

 

[lookforjoe]

Gee,Hussein. I do appreciate all the good work you are doing. You know that we had the same cars (x1/9 and C30) but I had to let go the C30. Computer went bad and the dealer didn't want to play with used ones. So I needed a $1500 comptuer + the time for the tech to program it. All that fot a 350 000 km car Worthing $1500...

But when I look for an awd C30, I search for a V50 T5 Awd. Job already done by the factory to convert it to awd, so I could use my time and my money to upgrade the car. I guess you didn't like the S40 of V50?

Sorry to hear you had to let yours go

Yes, I do not like the S40/V50, for myself. C30 has different steering ratio, suspension geometry. Plus C30 just looks better. Newer Volvos are styled following from the 'facelift' C30, so it doesn't look as old.

On top of all that, as you said, you can't BUY a C30 AWD

 

[DanielForest]

Those are good reasons. + you seems to enjoy doing it!

 

[kmead]

On top of all that, as you said, you can't BUY a C30 AWD

 

[lookforjoe]

Today I had a couple hours after work before the rains came again.

Got the rear balanced on the jack

Finagled it back & forth until it was centrally located

Jacked up, trailing arm forward bolts in place. Used longer M12 bolts to locate the subframe whilst I reattached the EVAP lines & EVAP pump. THAT was a PITA.

Rain started about here.

FWD ABS sender harnesses won't work as is, the routing is all wrong (as shown).

I may be able to switch L - R to get them pointed away from the moving parts

I have the old AWD harnesses, but I'm hesistant to use them, being 8 years older than the car The elbow casing may be removable, in which case I may be able to switch that over & keep my harnesses.