Volvo C30 AWD Conversion

No rain today, so I was able to get some work done on the motor. Got the PCV tube I had be waiting for installed, then the timing inner cover, water pump, and the cam gears, timing belt, idler & tensioner
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Gears & hubs placed with marks straight up. Hubs are not keyed to the cams, so they can go on any which way, as long as the cams are locked at the rear, the timing will be correct. The issue can arise that the hubs don't have enough advance or retard, so safer to put them back as they were originally. Blue dot marking indicates intake, white dot is the exhaust
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Belt went on without drama, Easiest if it is eased on over the edge & pushed on fully once each gear is engaged. Tensioner adjusted to mid (temp) point, motor rotated by hand 2x to check crank & cam timing marks
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Check crank gear marker against oil pump cover ridge
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Cam markers
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Problem was I forget to reinstall the engine mount bracket that has to go on prior to intake cam gear install, so I had to take it all apart again
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Take II. Of course this time the belt took more work to get on & timing set. Note 3 bracket bolts NOT tightened yet.
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With the cam hubs torqued to 85ft/lb, and the hub caps torqued to 26ft/lb, I removed the cam lock tool & installed the cam sensors and cam plugs. 16ft/lbs for sensor wheels
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Then back to the front to install the outer timing covers & the forward motor mount & safety
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Hopefully button it up over the weekend. Thanksgiving plans tomorrow, Back to Ithaca Friday to hoping to make an offer on a home.
 
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Still don't have it back together. Now it's too cold - just over 30ºF today, so I only worked for a few hours. Had to drill out the mount bracket for the AC tensioner - one pin had snapped off - upper.

After that I installed the coil pack harness & the intake gasket & runner
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Tensioner & belts installed
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Had to order the fuel feed line - the braided portion ruptured when I moved it around. Waiting for that now, and the tool to release the fitting
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Temp up into the 40's today, and no rain so I got work done on the C30.

Removed & cut back the damaged fuel line, removed the down pipe & added an additional O2 bung for the WBO2 controller I'm adding. Re-installed the DP, after cleaning up the DP threads. Got more of the intake side back together.
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double clamped at the repair
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Left WBO2 is for the controller, right is for the EMS
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Expansion tank back on, heat shield on
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Had enough time this morning before the rain started to finish up the C30, check fluids & add the WBO2 controller to the dash
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mileage at head repair 116090
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Had some teething issues. Heater hose blew off the bulkhead fitting, I can only presume I hadn't fully seated it before rotating the locking tab (grey ring at end of hose fitting). Fortunately this happened within 1/4 mile of the house, as it pumps the coolant out very fast. The problem was it was pumping it onto the turbo hot side, and since I was doing high rev hard shifts 1-3rd to shake it out, the coolant caught fire(?). I could see the flames coming off the turbo heat shield. when I popped the hood to see where all the smoke was coming from. I put it out quickly & no damage seems to have resulted, besides my being very shook up by the event.

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I had heater hoses blowing off the firewall on my T5R after putting on new heater hoses (after market). In my case the hose fitting stayed firmly attached to the firewall but the hoses blew off the crimp fitting on the end of the hoses. I did not even need to drive the car. It was just warming up in the driveway. I contacted FCP where I bought them and they sent me a new set immediately. They did the same thing. FCP contacted the supplier and found out they had a big problem with crimping the fittings on the hoses. They sent me Volvo OEM hoses as replacements. They worked fine.
 
Additional issue. Clutch pedal now sits high (again after the spirited 1-3rd run). Something popped, in the pedal mechanism. It's not a straightforward pedal, there is an over-center mechanism, and the clutch master is integrated into the pedal assembly(!)

Clutch sitting much higher than the brake & gas
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I replaced the over-center mechanism, as it seemed like the center rod was broken. While I was under there, I took a pic of the pedal & where the push rod is supposed to be attached, it's just flapping in the breeze. It's supposed to be attached to the white clip visible above it

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#8 is the white clip. The #4 sub-assembly is NOT sold separately.
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For the time being I added a puck to prevent the pedal coming so far over center

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Found pics of the linkage on PelcianParts. They have directions on replacing it. Steering column has to be removed, as well as airbag/steering wheel & instrument cluster. Not going to be a fun one
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So, what broke on mine is the link arm ball end - that's what would stop the pedal from coming up over center more than the designed height, and contribute to the pedal not returning properly.

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Weather turned in my favor today - didn't start raining until dusk, and was quite warm, so I took advantage of that to dismantle the C30 for the clutch master cylinder.

airbag & steering wheel out
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Steering column out
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directions neglected to mention this connector stuffed upon inside the column..
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cluster also out
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Decent amount of space to access the pedal bracket mount points (4) - but.... there is no way to withdraw the pedal assembly with the master cylinder attached. so, one has to pull the pedal bracket away from the firewall , then somehow get channel locks on the MC & rotate it clockwise (as seen from engine bay) to release it from the pedal assembly. The push rod normally has to be also released from the pedal itself, but since mine is broken there, that is already addressed. With that, the MC can be pulled out from behind the pedal assy., and then the pedal assy can also be removed. Going to be fun going back together. I'm considering drilling out the fixed pedal pivot, as this would be easier to install if the pedal could go in separately from the bracket & MC.
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Another piece snapped off the link rod, so now no more clutch actuation. New master cylinder should be here in a few days.
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Those plastic wonder parts.... Meh.. or why motos made today are designed to be disposed of once their "best by date" has arrived not repaired.

Volvo is not alone with these plastic pedal bits... near identical is found in the high-buck AUDI R8... plastic pedal box assembly..
This used unit has an asking price tag of $1250 U$D.. Given what these "high performance" motos cost.. bits like this should be of better materials and more.. except profitability with a known "best by date" is higher priority.
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Bernice
 
Drilled out the fixed pedal pivot & drilled & tapped the bushing to M6x1 at either end. This way I can install the Clutch master & the bracket as one, then install the pedal after.

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Either these or the Torx SEMS screws with loctite
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Painted the bracket, Volvo didn't even bother with primer on these
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New clutch master arrived yesterday - normally only takes 2 days via USPS from CT, this one took over a week. Anyway, the weather has not been conducive to working outside, either way too cold or snowing. Today it was sunny & 34º, so I took advantage of that to put the car back together
new MC
Sold under Sachs brand - unit is the same manufacturer as originally installed - FTE - just with metal rod instead of the plastic mine had
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test fit in painted backet
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So, the bracket & MC cannot be installed as one, even without the pedal in play. I had to insert the MC in the firewall opening first, then position the pedal bracket, then set/lock the MC in the bracket.
Left side mount points are tricky to access
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Link rod bushing set into pedal
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With that located, I attached the hydraulic line, feed tube & switch connector
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Immobilizer switch harness routed
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Over-center mechanism in place - I used a tie wrap to hold the spring compressed, then set the mechanism & cut the tie wrap
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Then I bled the clutch - had to remove the airbox, and the rad hose/engine harness support bracket to access the bleeder

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With the bleeder valve open, I drop the tube into a container of brake fluid & stroke the pedal until there is resistance, checking the fluid level & topping it off after a few strokes.
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After that I re-installed the steering column & shroud, under dash panelling, instrument cluster, surround, steering wheel & airbag.
Finally, I forgot to remove the set screw I used to locate the airbag contact reel spring, so I just cut it short. Not going to hurt anything as is.
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Today I replaced the AWD driveshaft. I bought one of the A-Premium branded ones, $395. Looks decent enough. There are cheaper ones on eBay, which had I found earlier I might have tried. On mine, the forward carrier has failed, the rubber cage is torn. I have a vibration on decel/braking which I hope is caused by this, otherwise it's back to the drawing board on that. Have to start with what is obviously worn out anyway.
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On mine, I made the 3" exhaust sectioned - this way I can remove the forward & mid sections with the cat
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replacing the two carrier supports now, rubber isolater bushings are not sold separately. I bought these 6 years ago when the were still readily available.
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Can replace the center joint on this style.
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DS in place, exhaust re-installed
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OK - so as bad as the carrier cage was, that was not the cause of the vibration, at all. I took the rear wheels off to install the snows, and noted that the brake pads were uneven thickness I/O.
I've been down this road with CEIKA brakes, so I knew mediately that the cause was pads binding in the caliper due to scale buildup between the caliper body & the SS shims on the inboard pad. It's ****ed up, and they refuse to admit there is any problem with the materials or design. I have NEVER had this wilth any other aluminum body caliper (Brembo for example).

This was the cause of the vibration under braking, the inner rotor surface was all rusted & uneven. Sure as heck felt like the left front.

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You can see the distortion in the shims

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Still waiting for warranty Eibach rear coil spring (since May), and I've been driving with the car jacked in the rear with the stock springs. Got tired of that, so while I was here I cut the AWD springs down to match the Eibach coil length. I should have cut them shorter as the coil diameter is about .050" thicker. The car now sits with about a 2 finger gap at the rear, which is better than before, so I'll live with it until the other Eibach finally arrives.

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Also installed the new (correct C30T5) front strut (31277602) to replace the used one I installed in Ithaca over the summer after the roadway accident.

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Car feel nice & smooth, vibration free under braking, I'm happy with that. Now I just need to get enough miles on the car for the readiness monitors to set - State Inspection was due in December, so I'm driving with no valid inspection. Can't park it anywhere on the street in town until it's remedied, as I will definitely get a ticket for that from the parking authority.
 
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Been trying to get the C30 set for inspection. An ongoing issue since I did the engine work is that I kept getting P0101 error codes, as a result I couldn't get the readiness monitors to set. It's been too cold to work outside, but I needed to get some testing done to resolve this. Today I hooked up my smoke tester & confirmed there are no intake side leaks to be found - that was good news.

SO, I installed the new Audi MAF I bought (077 133 471 KX, Bosch 0280218067). It didn't make sense to me that that had failed by simply removing it for the head work, however the car does seem to be better & the error code did not come back today - previously it would come on after a day or so of very gentle driving (keeping boost under 3lbs), or within 10-15mins if I drove it at all aggressively. Hopefully that's that, and the readiness monitors will set in the next few days.

 
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Been trying to get my Toshiba laptop working - I only use it for the Volvo Diagnostic Software - VIDA - turns out the hard drive is f'kd. So, I bought a used slightly newer Toshiba Satellite, but one that still runs Win7. I've been trying to install the Volvo software, without success.
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Turns out the system was missing components of IE, as Microsoft replaced it with Edge at some point. The Volvo software will only run with IE. After some hours trying to work around that & reinstall a fresh version of Win7, that didn't work either. Finally, a friend found that you can recover the OS without an install disc, by pressing Zero & restarting the computer. So far, that appears to be working. IF that goes all the way through, Hopefully I will be able to install the Volvo software successfully once that is complete!

I need to have VIDA installed to run the tank test to get the EVAP monitor to set. I can't get my car inspected without the readiness down to only one incomplete, and right now I have that & the O2 that haven't run. I don't drive the car enough under whatever BS conditions the system has been designed to accept. Last time this happened I literally drove 200 miles, with stops and starts in order to get the monitor to set.

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Been trying to get my Toshiba laptop working - I only use it for the Volvo Diagnostic Software - VIDA - turns out the hard drive is f'kd. So, I bought a used slightly newer Toshiba Satellite, but one that still runs Win7. I've been trying to install the Volvo software, without success.
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Turns out the system was missing components of IE, as Microsoft replaced it with Edge at some point. The Volvo software will only run with IE. After some hours trying to work around that & reinstall a fresh version of Win7, that didn't work either. Finally, a friend found that you can recover the OS without an install disc, by pressing Zero & restarting the computer. So far, that appears to be working. IF that goes all the way through, Hopefully I will be able to install the Volvo software successfully once that is complete!

I need to have VIDA installed to run the tank test to get the EVAP monitor to set. I can't get my car inspected without the readiness down to only one incomplete, and right now I have that & the O2 that haven't run. I don't drive the car enough under whatever BS conditions the system has been designed to accept. Last time this happened I literally drove 200 miles, with stops and starts in order to get the monitor to set.

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Hope that works. I had a Volvo 850R and it was notorious for the difficulty in getting the readiness codes set for OBD reading. I would spend half a day doing a controlled drive sequence to reset the OBD. Ouch!
 
Working on clearing potential causes for the P0101 code.
Replaced the PCV , and cleaned the MAF.
Also repositioned the turbo inlet hose, it may not have been properly clamped. Very hard to see down there.
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Going back together
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Checked the EBP stuff while I was back there
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