Water Pump Leak - Random

obxfshn

obxfshn

Daily Driver
Last night I saw about 2oz of antifreeze under my X on the passenger side, below where the belts/AC compressor are located. I confirmed it was antifreeze as it had a green tint with a little slippery feel. I tried to trace it but couldn't find the source so I determined it must be the water pump. Could not see the pump/engine gasket from above, below, or with the rear trunk access panel removed due to the starter and AC Compressor being in the way. First time I've see a leak. I jacked it up, dried any antifreeze I could find, restarted the car and let it run for 20 minutes. No leaks.

Today after taking it for a 2.5 mile drive I parked it again...no leak.

My antifreeze level in the tank is about 2" from the bottom; so I don't think it was expansion drips as that has tube down through the frame and that's not where this leak was coming from.

Any ideas on what's going on?

Thanks!
Brandon
 
I had a non-consistent leak when I first brought home my 85 a few years ago. After some investigation, I found that the clamps on the hose elbow from the heater tube to the thermostat housing were no where near tight. After tightening them, never leaked again. So... check your hoses for condition and tightness. Also check any water pump bolts you can reach for tightness.

That is the easy stuff. It could be that the shaft seal on your water pump is giving you a warning sign. Keep an eye on it and by all means add some coolant. The tank should be 2/3 full.
 
Thanks JimD! I ran it again for 15 minutes and no leak. NextThursday is my 26th wedding anniversary and I'm taking my wife to the Switzerland Inn on the Blue Ridge Parkway on the other side of NC.. It's a 900+ mile round trip journey; I'm sure if there's an issue it will show itself! : )
 
That could make for a memorable anniversary, broken-down in the middle of the Blue Ride Parkway on your way there. ;)

I guess it stands to reason, also check all other clamps (heater hoses, etc) for tightness.
 
I've checked the clamps - all good and tight, but haven't replaced the cap. It's showing age so I'll do that today.

The leak seemed to come from the water pump area and I can't see/get to that without removing the AC unit and alternator. (Removed the back access door from the trunk...no help.

I dove it back from Austin TX a couple of months ago; 1,700 miles non-stop except for bio breaks and fuel and not a single issue on the trip thankfully.
 
Ya, on my '79 with factory AC the water-pump is impossible to get to. Plus it was originally a Cailf spec car with a smog AIR pump on top of the alternator and EGR valve on the exhaust manifold behind the water-pump housing. So getting access to the water-pump/housing required removal of everything, including the AIR pump, EGR valve's pipes, alternator, carburetor, AC compressor, a ton of small stuff, etc. And you will also find it is necessary to remove the mount for the AC compressor (in addition to the compressor itself) if you want to get the water-pump's housing off. I've made some modifications to simplify things a little. But it isn't a fun job...I'd rather change master cylinders.
 
toddr124 said:
Since a divorce is so expensive, try tightening all the clamps in the cooling system. Also check or change the cap. To much pressure can cause leaks on long drives.
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Todd - I grew up near Hagerstown; just North in Waynesboro PA. I cruised the strip in my Fiat in high school!
 
I have been driving Fiats in Hagerstown since 1988, but I was in my 30s when I got here. I do go to Waynesboro to play golf sometimes. Come say hi next time you are in the area, I will buy to a beer.
 
That's the way the water pump first starts to leak: inconsistently. I would go ahead and start acquiring the parts to replace it, especially if it has not been replaced in recent memory. Maybe you will get lucky and it is not the water pump. In which case, you will have a spare ready for when the time really comes to replace it. Win win.
 
Coolant (water pump, 100% water is not commonly used in road moto-vehicles these days) pump has a weep hole at the bottom front of the pump impeller bearing-seal. If coolant begins to weep or drip from this opening, the pump seals are beginning to die and at some point that seal will die. Replacing the pump-impeller-housing section is not that difficult on the 1500cc, significantly more difficult on a 1300cc due to interference by the exhaust manifold to one of the pump housing screws. Pump replacement had to be done on the 74' with a 1300cc. Rather than removing the exhaust-intake system, out came the die grinder and carbide oval burr to take down the interference area of the old pump housing to remove that M8 screw. The OEM hex head M8 cap screw was replaced with a M8 SST socket head which could be easily accessed with a ball head 6mm hex bit.

Be aware there is a Fiat spec clearance between the impeller to housing (think it is about, 1mm or 0,040", check this). If this clearance is excessive coolant flow at low-idle engine speeds will be not be as much as it should be adding to cooling problems at idle or in low speed traffic hot weather conditions.

Also, the steel pipe at the end of the coolant pump housing is prone to corrosion induced pin holes. These pin holes induce air into the cooling system causing cooling problems.


Bernice


obxfshn said:
Last night I saw about 2oz of antifreeze under my X on the passenger side, below where the belts/AC compressor are located. I confirmed it was antifreeze as it had a green tint with a little slippery feel. I tried to trace it but couldn't find the source so I determined it must be the water pump.
Brandon
Click to expand...
 
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