Weather stripping for targa bar/sail panels

No doubt a bummer regardless given the fine shape the paint and surfaces are in.

Had the guy just gone the other way, removing all the rub strips, would have shown off what great shape the car was in with straight sides rather than adhering the undesirable weather stripping.

Good luck and take your time.
 
Karl, fortunately mine only has one strip of that molding, but I know what you are talking about how some had it above and below the recess. However mine also has that rocker panel cover (ribbed aluminum plate) riveted on down below, so more holes to fill before a complete repaint.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
If you decide to remove the stripes, try one of the "pinstripe removal wheels" (often called 'eraser wheel'). Chucks in a drill/air tool and rubs the decal off without harming the paint (do a test first to be sure).

https://www.amazon.com/Decal-Remova...ocphy=9030817&hvtargid=pla-422099422692&psc=1
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Thanks Jeff. I'd seen this being used on multiple YouTube videos, but I thought it was just for the adhesive residue left behind, (after you've removed the decals with heat
It would be well worth the 30 bucks or so, they cost, if I couod do everything in one fell swoop. Wish it worked on Gorilla Glue!
 
They are not very aggressive so I doubt it will work on the glue, but worth a try. You will find two types, one solid and the other like the above link. The one in the link is supposed to run cooler on the surface.
 
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twincam69 said:
The eraser wheels work.
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There are some things they won't do however. I have a old VW truck with the original paint. It was the "Sport Truck" edition with huge decal side panels (example below, that entire silver panel is a decal). The vehicle spent its entire life in the desert sun so the decals were severely baked on. The wheel didn't do a thing to them. But the paint was so oxidized and sun rotted that I just stripped the entire truck down to bare metal and started working it back up (kind of regretting that, it is a huge time consumer to do right).
But for your X's stripes it should work without having to remove anything first. The wheel quickly wears down as you go. I'm guessing one wheel should do it, but you'll find out after a little bit.

Pickup_Page_08.jpg
 
Thanks guys. I'm definitely getting one of these. Stay tuned for the bare naked X !
Although I'm going to have to reconcile with the fact that I will no longer be the owner of a rare and highly sought after Hugh Hefner "signature edition".
 
The problem I had with the last MWB seal was that the door wouldn’t close easily with it, and it didn’t seal in the bottom corner of the door. I took a video of the water leaking in over the seal at one point. Pretty sure I returned it. After that, I used Volvo S/V70 door seal cut to length, retaining the angle transitions from the vertical to the targa seal.
 
lookforjoe said:
The problem I had with the last MWB seal was that the door wouldn’t close easily with it, and it didn’t seal in the bottom corner of the door. I took a video of the water leaking in over the seal at one point. Pretty sure I returned it. After that, I used Volvo S/V70 door seal cut to length, retaining the angle transitions from the vertical to the targa seal.
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Thanks Hussein. I was planning on going a similar route, until Karl turned me on to the set offered on Henk's site. If for whatever reason, I don't go that route, it's good to know of an alternate choice. I'm assuming you're happy with the results and that you've had no leaks. Are you using corner blocks?
 
Tom Ginefra said:
Is that what you meant by "retaining the angle transitions" ?
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Yes. I'm looking for old pics, since loosing PB all my pics are randomly ordered, so it's a bit of a pain.

My original targa top lip seal has finally worn out, so I'm replacing that with the earlier style & ordered that & the corner blocks from MWB. The early corners have little pegs that stick out & engage the seal.
 
Tom Ginefra said:
Thanks Hussein. I was planning on going a similar route, until Karl turned me on to the set offered on Henk's site. If for whatever reason, I don't go that route, it's good to know of an alternate choice. I'm assuming you're happy with the results and that you've had no leaks. Are you using corner blocks?
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Sorry I never answered this. I was happy with them. For some reason, since changing the doors when I did the bodywork, I can't get a good seal on the DS. I don't have any more Volvo seals to cut & fit, so I'm going to resort to a length of the generic stuff. I think this is it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Weath...s-RV-Trucks-and-Campers-Per-Foot/141008758040

Can't find the thread where this and other seal options were discussed.
 
Thanks Jeff.

This seems to be the relevant post

Not sure, I think I should try the 16mm

1842-20394d41d19d160ba27d5f89faf4fef4.jpg


Pretty sure the MWB version is this 20mm - I wasn't able to get the doors to close using their version, it was too fat in the door hinge area

1840-ee7e48c3ced4029ac2be6bc801045129.jpg


I'll need to check the depth of what I have now. With the replacement doors & eveything repositioned, the door glass isn't pressing fully into the targa area of the seal, and water is also coming in around the forward lower reinforcement of the fixed glass at the A pillar. we are having much rain now, this is a mess. Have to keep multiple towels in the car to soak up the water behind the DS seat & on the seat & carpet just in front of the seat. This is in addition to the targa seal leaking... I'm just glad I haven't fixed the floor or changed the carpet yet :D
 
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Looking at the parts car, it has the seal with that extra little 'tab' (first pic, lower profile) so I ordered 20' of that one. See how that goes.
 
Just FYI, I had good results with the current MWB offering and my 85X. I made a short video of the passenger door closing without a lot of force. You can see it doesn't take much to get the door to fully close and latch, even with the window up.

Since it doesn't have the molded in corners, you can see the tube flattens out at the targa sail corners. I am happy with the MWB stuff. I am probably not as picky in this area as someone who daily drives their X. I usually have the roof off, so even a little wind noise with the roof on would still seem quiet to me compared to no roof.

Here is a picture of the fit along the door and a close up of the flat spot at the targa sail top corner.
20181014_135949.jpg 20181014_135959.jpg
 
JimD said:
Just FYI, I had good results with the current MWB offering and my 85X. I made a short video of the passenger door closing without a lot of force. You can see it doesn't take much to get the door to fully close and latch, even with the window up.

Since it doesn't have the molded in corners, you can see the tube flattens out at the targa sail corners. I am happy with the MWB stuff. I am probably not as picky in this area as someone who daily drives their X. I usually have the roof off, so even a little wind noise with the roof on would still seem quiet to me compared to no roof.

Here is a picture of the fit along the door and a close up of the flat spot at the targa sail top corner.
View attachment 16135 View attachment 16134
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Looking at the variants, I can only assume the version I got from MWB (must be several years now) was more like the rounder/fatter variety. Door required way more force than that to squish the seal in the door jamb. Either way, I prefer to cut the seal & use the original transition piece, then you don't have that 'flat' & reduced sealing in the top corner of the window.
 
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