What’d ya do with your X120 today?

Discussion in 'X1/20 Forum' started by Chad C., Oct 19, 2018.

  1. Chad C.

    Chad C. True Classic

    Eugene, Oregon
    I picked up the bumper locally, no front bumper to go with it. Thanks for the link, Pete. That'll come in handy.

    Congrats on passing emissions, Mark! Still have the smog stuff hooked up with the factory carb on them? I'm lucky to have no required smog testing here, removing all the smog parts was rewarding.

    I have so little time for this car, but I crack on with it at least weekly. The motivation I get here to persevere is valuable, it helps to see what others are up to with theirs.
  2. Mark


    No smog BS or carbs. Both have been fuel injected and CA BAR certified. Best way to have a drivable old car in CA. Carbs and my location don’t get along. Drastic altitude changes reek havoc with A-F ratios on carbs. Learned that at early age vacationing in WY and traveling from OH.

  3. Chad C.

    Chad C. True Classic

    Eugene, Oregon

    Smart move there. As much as I love carbs, You make a great argument for FI. BAR certification likely adds a lot of resale value to your cars for potential in-state buyers. I've yet to ever drive an injected Fiat/Lancia, but I'd welcome the chance.

    I made some progress with the deck lid tonight while my six year old made a muddy mess of my house. Felt a bit guilty for my lack of supervision, which is what often keeps me out of the garage. Young George learned how to clean tonight...

    Only one high spot on the lid shown on the lower right, and no other concerns. The high spot seems to have been factory because the deck lid frame is under it. Weird. It tapped in easily & took very little filler. SEM brand primer-surfacer is very nice, but not cheap. If you know of something cheaper & just as good that I don't have to use HVLP with, let me know. The staff at the local industrial paint supply store are very helpful & they know my boy by name : )

    My pics show my slave laborer after initial sanding, prime'd, sanded, prime'd agin & guide coated with SEM guide coat. Likely not pictured in that order... image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

    Not the most interesting post, but it keeps my momentum going.
    motoTrooper and kmead like this.
  4. motoTrooper

    motoTrooper True Classic

    I bought a golf club for my car. It's a 9 iron. Making a video this weekend about it...

    Nice bodywork on the decklid, I love the shape on these. What color scheme are you going for?
    darwoodious likes this.
  5. kmead

    kmead Old enough to know better

    Hmmm a 9 Iron. Look forward to the video
  6. motoTrooper

    motoTrooper True Classic

    Took a bit longer to tackle the simple task. Also I was way off, it's a 6 iron. Apparently, I'm vertically dyslexic.

    Andy likes this.
  7. Chad C.

    Chad C. True Classic

    Eugene, Oregon
    Not entirely sure on color/scheme, so far I know it will be period-correct. I suspect I won't know for sure until I buy the paint. I just hope I don't f- it up so bad that I'm embarrassed to show the end result.

    Ok, gonna watch the Western now : )
  8. fiatfactory

    fiatfactory Steve Cecchele

    Western Australia
    Nothing on mine, but have an upcoming engine 2000 engine build for a customer and have begun compiling the parts for the build.
    Clockwise from the top...

    Pistons Kolben Schmidt (mahle packaged) 5.2mm dome, the best quality cast pistons out there for a Fiat twin cam, and reasonable weight at 467 including rings. Gudgeon pins are Ross and just on 100g.
    Exhaust valves are sodium filled from a turbochasrged model of the engine, Inlet valves are genuine Volumex (much nicer back profile and the lightest factory 43.5 valve), Main bearings are original Italian made Clevite, front and rear crank seals in Viton from a turbocharged model, ARP head stud set, ARP rod bolt set, OE Fiat bolt only type rods (to be modified to take Chev SJ SB big end shells)

    Some really nice genuine Italian 44DCNF webers

    I've got a genuine Alquati Monte specific manifold (86M) to go with these.

    A nice pair of Alquati (Pittatore) billet cams... A44/6/M are monte specific cams ... but these are not a "real" pair... the cam with the dist gear is actually a 124 (exhaust) cam and the cut of the spur gear is reversed to how it should be for an intake driven distributor... easy fix as we don't plan to use a cambox mounted distributor. These are Pittatore grind #201, 11.3mm lift, 295 degrees duration @ 0.4mm (but I'm going to be doing a proper measurement of them to be sure) quoted timing is 48/67 65/46 with lobe centre at 102.. but I won't be timing these up to those specs, and likely that I'll run a lower lift exhaust cam of similar duration (I have some 35/75 10.6 lift pittatores I might use one on the ex side
    s-l1600 (5).jpg

    Target is 150RWHP / 170 lb/ft crank torque, so should be a fun build.

    kmead likes this.
  9. RJ80

    RJ80 True Classic

    Kitsap, WA
    @fiatfactory Couldn't you just swap the the Scorpion's intake-driven distributor gear for a Fiat 124 exhaust drive gear and have it work?
  10. fiatfactory

    fiatfactory Steve Cecchele

    Western Australia
    If you think about how the distributor is positioned, compared to the camshaft... viewed from the front of the engine (looking from the crank nose end) on the monte the intake cam driven dist is to the "right" side of the cam which is rotating clockwise... for the 124 exhaust driven distributor it's to the "left" hand side of the cam rotating clockwise...the distributor is rotating clockwise in both cases, the cut of the gears is different to achieve this...if you put a 124 gear on the monte dist and fitted this on the intake side cam, the distributor would spin anti-clockwise.


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