What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

when I did my last trans swap. I just sat on the ground pulled the 5 spd onto my lap, and lifted, giggled and slid onto the clutch, a little twist and I had the downs in and the trans against the motor.

I also did not use an alignment tool, but just did it via eyesight. Early years I was a wrench turned in a transmission shop (or 3) and alway's had mixed results with the alignment tools (alway's double check it via eyesight, once you have done it that way a time or two you will get a feel for it. If using an alignment tool alway's wiggle it around (up and down, side to side) to see how much play or slop there is and go for the center of the slop. Our X's don't have a pilot, but on car's that do the BEST tool is an input shaft, I have a 350 pan full of different cut short input shafts just for that use).

But also in my history, I bench pressed a 727 into a dodge 1-ton van and had the wife quickly put a bell housing bolt in. It is truly amazing what you can do when you have to get it done.
 
1D7CD887-1756-46A2-8055-187941525A92.jpeg


Just checking how it would be..not good yet
 
mkmini said:
Just checking how it would be
Click to expand...
I really like the idea of making the wider flared portions without completely replacing the entire fenders, like how the clay is in your pic. Something of a "add-on" attachment. That would be a very good way to do it in my opinion. And it's something that could be easily added to the stock fenders without a ton of body work to make replacement fenders fit the rest of the body.

It might be the angle in this picture, but I think the "line" on the rears looks like it is 'sagging' downward too much. Maybe a little higher as it goes to the back (see the black line)....
1D7CD887-1756-46A2-8055-187941525A92.jpeg
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I really like the idea of making the wider flared portions without completely replacing the entire fenders, like how the clay is in your pic. Something of a "add-on" attachment. That would be a very good way to do it in my opinion. And it's something that could be easily added to the stock fenders without a ton of body work to make replacement fenders fit the rest of the body.

It might be the angle in this picture, but I think the "line" on the rears looks like it is 'sagging' downward too much. Maybe a little higher as it goes to the back (see the black line)....
View attachment 13742
Click to expand...

Yes, rear is sagging and too high on front part. Took all clay already off. Was just checking how fast that techniq is and what I need to di that properly.
Should extrude arches in exact width from cardboard before adding clay in it. Side air intakes should be made before. Print a lot of Dallara pics and play slideshow or videos on PC, to avoid touching phone or pc with dirty hands.

Also would need a bit more clay. It looks that have only for one rear side and both front.

And also would need to make rough calculations of invested time/money on this to compare with Cascu kit’s price.

Most likely Dallara body will start to happen in winter or after winter.
 
Maybe we should start a seperate thread for this?

To help show what I was referring to by "add-on" attachments rather than complete "replacement" fenders. If you do not necessarily want to make an exact replica (clone) of the Dallara, but create the same style in a simpler way. The extensions can be made to attach onto the existing fenders, either bonded (glued) or riveted and smoothed over. Here are some examples on other types of cars. Ignore the actual styles/shapes, this is just to show the design of how the "add-on" section is made to go onto the existing fenders. [I don't necessarily care for the exposed screws, but they can be attached from behind so they don't show]:
113289-oncar-01_1.jpg 113226-oncar-02.jpg 4c2929e9f9949e4fc6bffc74993a4ada.jpg 03_350zb2widebodyrf.jpg download.jpg HTB1c0quQFXXXXbwXFXXq6xXFXXXL.jpg s784215257844761157_p27_i19_w2560.jpeg

If you make a mold for them, to create the extensions from fiberglass, then the molds could be used by someone else to make them for his X (like maybe a guy in the US). ;)
 
Janis, welcome to "XA" (X1/9 Anonymous). Always wondered why they call it 'anonymous' when the first thing they say is their name every time they talk.

Those wheels are going to need a large adapter to fit the X. :)
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Janis, welcome to "XA" (X1/9 Anonymous). Always wondered why they call it 'anonymous' when the first thing they say is their name every time they talk.

Those wheels are going to need a large adapter to fit the X. :)
Click to expand...
Yeah, not many 6 bolt hubs on X1/9s.
 
Because of the design they look much wider than 8". Should work well with the wide-body you are making.
Weight varies significantly, some can get REALLY heavy.
 
Well, weight doesn't matter. At least if you put a ton of clay on the car!!!
But if you really want, you could drill some holes in the wheels. It's already got too many of them! :D
 
Daniel Forest said:
Well, weight doesn't matter. At least if you put a ton of clay on the car!!!
But if you really want, you could drill some holes in the wheels. It's already got too many of them! :D
Click to expand...
ok, that clay is much heavier hahaha, I could drill more holes like on stunt bicycles.

Jeff, these are heavy because they are for jeeps :D
offset is -23, 15mm adapter = in sum -38 ofset o_O suspension and bearings won't last long
surly-rolling-darryl-rims-1_large.jpg
 
Those adapters came out great, nice lathe work. If they are made of steel (vs aluminum) could they be thinner and still have plenty of strength? That would lower the weight and keep the wheels closer to the hubs - to help prevent premature wear of bearings, etc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top