Discussion in 'Discussion Forum' started by Eastep, Oct 30, 2010.
Have not finished it yet. I'm working on multiple major project vehicles at the same time, plus I work slow. So it will still be a while before this gets done.
But I can say the UT gear fits the 1500 engine directly and is fairly simple to do. The only real changes that should be done (in my opinion) is some upgrading of the FI system (on US models). The stock (US) 1500 injection won't support a turbo. But you are in Europe so your 1500 is likely a carb engine? In that case you can use the entire UT injection system (also fits directly) without modifications if desired. Here those parts are difficult to get so I'm retaining the basic US injection. That requires changing to a aftermarket ECU, therefore more involved.
Ideally to get anything more than about 7-8 PSI boost (.5 bar) from it you should switch to better pistons. However that may not really be necessary if you don't try to go too far; the stock (US spec) pistons have a very large upper ring landing, typically the weak point for a turbo engine, so they may hold up quite well (time will tell). Plus the US spec head is very low compression (good for a turbo). However if your Euro spec X has the higher compression Euro head/pistons, then it may be too much (too high CR) and cause detonation. In which case lower compression, turbo type pistons may be needed.
Yes, mine has dual Weber 40 carbs. Regarding CR I don't think that is an issue even on the EU model. I have a Ford Probe V6 as well and I've met people that put a turbo on their Probes with no big modifications, and that engine has a CR of 10:1. The weak part is the tranny and I expect the same situation on the X.
My package included (2!?) ECU but I will probably not use it. Instead I will go for the Swedish MaxxECU system that offers a lot more. -Advanced mapping and no need for gauges as that info can be displayed wireless on a mobile or tablet.
Some "modern" engines can operate with a turbo at that CR, but the engine is engineered/designed to do it. With older engine designs like ours, about 9:1 is the limit, and even then you need to do many things to keep the internal temps under control. Generally 8.5:1 is best (big debate what the actual US spec CR is though, anywhere from 8 to 8.5:1). The aftermarket ECU is a big bonus. I will also use one due to the stock US ECU not working for boosted engines. Allows lots of other improvements also. But as you say, the tranny will definitely be a weak point. I plan to keep the boost low (around .5 bar, maybe a little more if it proves good). And that will not create any huge torque/HP gains, so hopefully the trans will last. If you use all stock UT gear it can be made to go to 1 bar, but the X trans won't (I don't think the 1500 engine will hold that either).
Had a great dinner and conversation with xweber Cameron. He was in lansing for business. What a fun thing to do when away from home. Talk to another x-head!
Picking up parts for a fiat in a van is easier than picking up parts for a van in a fiat. But picking them up in a fiat is more fun!
I suppose you could put the Fiat in the van and take it to get the parts.
I went to the gas station at Alice's Restaurant to fill up the tank for the first time since November 1995. The place is a popular hangout (particularly on weekends) for motorcyclists and people with fancy cars out for a ride on the mountain roads. By the time I opened the door and got out, there were several people eyeing the car and ready to start asking me questions about it. I was not expecting this reaction but I guess it is a lot rarer now than the last time I filled it up.
With the tank full, I went for a bit of a ride. At one point, I had a guy in a McLaren follow me for a while. As I pulled over to make a right, he came by and gave his approval with a series of tail light flashes.
I see what you did there.
In a reversal of roles, I actually used my X1/9 to go pick up parts for my Ford. This was the first time I drove the car down the mountain into a populated area. The car got quite a few looks on the way, and when I left the parts department at the dealer, there were a couple of guys checking it out where it was parked. This was a good day to check the cooling system, the weather being in the 90s which is rare around here. I made it back up the mountain and the temperature gauge never got above 190F. After I parked for a minute the fan came on. That was a much rarer event when the 1300 was in it.
Oh shit, where’d they go? I have been robbed!
Oh wait there they are.
I had them out to clean the garage after taking the 850 to the Grand Rapids Metro Cruise.
Fiats and Alfas together
Karl, your 850 looks really solid. Is that the original paint?
Yes it is an all original car as far as I can tell. The paint is getting quite thin in many places.
It sat in an apartment parking garage in Burbank for a very long time before I got it which likely saved it. I have done very little to the car in the 29 years I have had it beyond driving it 15k since I bought it.
The doors look like a ball peen hammer was taken to them as the people who parked next to it seemed to use their foot to lever open the doors of their Grand Marquis...
Likely in the next two years I will be pulling it off the road to redo the car as it needs the most and deserves the attention. Need garage mahal first.
I'd be tempted to keep it as is...all original. Let it continue to patina and collect road scars, adds character.
Oh it has character alright and plenty of road and storage scars.
Tempting but at the same time I would love to be able to appreciate the car as a beautiful object in a more pristine state.
More Door stay fun
My 1500 drivers side door has the same issue as my Lido, now fixed, in that the door won’t stay open. Instead of buying a new stay I replaced the plastic pulley/wheel.
These are riveted in but replacements can be found. I bought mine from DG Rally on eBay uk.
I cut a slot across one end of the hollow rivet and crushed the halves together and used a hammer and punch to knock it out.
The old wheel was quite worn.
Using the punch as a guide to centre the holes the hammer was re employed to knock the rivet back in through the new wheel. I had to file a small chamfer on the rivet to help it engage with the new wheel.
Yes it’s bent!
I then used a centre punch to reopen the end of the rivet.
Did it work, errr, no not quite. There’s more resistance for sure but if the car is on a slope the door still shuts and won’t stay open. I may just end up buying a new stay!
I'm guessing the spring steel "clip" has lost it 'spring'. I've had a few of these actually break (metal clip snapped), leaving the two halves of the clip flopping around in the mechanism. A previous owner continued to close the door with it that way and damaged the metal around the door and sill.
I've spent the whole day filling up holes in panels. Chemical metal and aluminum net worked out very well. One day closer to a nice looking bumperless X.
I put a gear reduction starter from MWB on the 85X. It had been no-starting frequently, but if I gently rocked it in gear a few times, it would eventually fire. Voltages all seemed fine, so I decided to go for a new starter. The gear reduction starter seemed like a good idea. I have started it several times hot and cold today, so far, no failures. Hopefully this solves the issue.
Test fit speedlines 20mm adapter the outside is flush with top of wheel well. About a finger width inside clearance to modified Mazda 626 struts cheap imitations of ksport struts. Strut mount is converted to Fiat 500 style.
Separate names with a comma.