What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

Thanks to Tim Hoover for turning up these little gems to boost my project to the next level. These took about 2 hours each to clean up. In honor of today's anniversary, I sat down with polish and cleaner while watching Band of Brothers. 4 hours went by surprisingly quick.
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Rad. That X looks so frigin' cool and not overdone. That roll bar makes me nervous on a street car but everything else is perfect.
Rad. That X looks so frigin' cool and not overdone. That roll bar makes me nervous on a street car but everything else is perfect.
totally agree on the roll bar I need to get at least padding for it. ASAP (ok I am on amazon right after posting this. )
I am debating on the wing being too big. it is 17" front to back. 15 might be better. reaching out to my faom guy to see what the lead time would be

Odie
 
it is 17" front to back. 15 might be better
I'm guessing the cost of the custom foam isn't cheap, so a relatively minor change (two inches) may not be worth it. However if you decide to go with a different shape, overall length, a greater reduction is depth (than 2"), or other changes, then it might be worth the expense. Just thinking out loud, as if I was in your shoes.
 
I'm guessing the cost of the custom foam isn't cheap, so a relatively minor change (two inches) may not be worth it. However if you decide to go with a different shape, overall length, a greater reduction is depth (than 2"), or other changes, then it might be worth the expense. Just thinking out loud, as if I was in your shoes.
Actually, it wont be to bad. The 17 was more expensive because he had to order a special size. Total cost after epoxy and glass will be about 150. A little steep but it will keep me busy. Not planning on doing anything until this winter anyway. And love peoples opinions.

Odie
 
totally agree on the roll bar I need to get at least padding for it. ASAP (ok I am on amazon right after posting this. )
Odie

If you don't plan doing serious racing, you don't need SFI Approved roll bar padding. They are around 10 times more expensive!

I got an Autopower rollbar that isn't bolted (welded?) yet. I'm planning on making it as back forward as possible to get more head (helmet) clearance.
 
Replaced my spark plugs.

Old plugs were Champion 3415s (RN9PYC?), installed when my father had the engine rebuilt during restoration, and they have approx. 2700km on them. They have been replaced with NGK 7131/BPR6ES.

First impression is that the engine runs smoother, and according to the butt dyno, the car seems to pull a bit harder and the engine seems to spin a bit quicker.

Plugs in the picture are left --> right, from the driver's side to passenger side. Incidentally, which cylinder is considered cylinder 1?

As you can see, there is quite a bit of oil fouling on them...I suspect the valve stem seals need replacing as the car smokes on start up after sitting, but doesn't smoke after the initial cloud of smoke clears up.

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Replaced my spark plugs.

Old plugs were Champion 3415s (RN9PYC?), installed when my father had the engine rebuilt during restoration, and they have approx. 2700km on them. They have been replaced with NGK 7131/BPR6ES.

First impression is that the engine runs smoother, and according to the butt dyno, the car seems to pull a bit harder and the engine seems to spin a bit quicker.

Plugs in the picture are left --> right, from the driver's side to passenger side. Incidentally, which cylinder is considered cylinder 1?

As you can see, there is quite a bit of oil fouling on them...I suspect the valve stem seals need replacing as the car smokes on start up after sitting, but doesn't smoke after the initial cloud of smoke clears up.

That is a lot of oil fouling. How long ago was your engine rebuilt? Odd that the seals weren’t replaced at the time, they should last for a long time.

The NGKs have always been a good plug for me and my cars.
 
The engine was rebuilt a few years back, but it only has 2700km on it since being rebuilt.

To be honest, the rebuilder appears to have done a crappy job. There were a bunch of issues with the car when my father picked it up and since I inherited it I have discovered that the valve stem seals are toast, and that the timing appears to be a tooth off.

I have held off on fixing the timing as a) the head was supposed to be a big valve head, and I don't know if the head was shaved or not, which if I'm not mistaken may make the timing appear to be off (my car does not have an adjustable timing gear) and b) the car runs fine and I've been happy to take care of the low hanging fruit first.

Unfortunately I don't have any of the paperwork from the rebuild, and my father isn't around for me to ask...but sooner or later, the head is coming off.
 
This is just a general personal observation, nothing scientific. It seems I've been noticing a lot of valve guide seal issues reported in recent years. In some cases even right out of the box with brand new seals. And not just with Fiats, but also with other similar engines from the era that use the same type seals.

The installation technique will have a lot to do with it; it's easy to either disturb the sealing lip if a installation "cone" isn't used, or to not get them properly seated - allowing them to come loose (I've had some just fall out when the head was torn down). But I suspect there may be more to it. As @kmead said they should be rather robust. Perhaps a lot of marginal quality seals have made their way into the supply chain...both as individual replacements and in the overhaul kits?

The good news is the seals that fit the SOHC have the same dimensions as ones that fit more common engines, like early VW water cooled ones for example. So there are lots more options of brands, materials, and features if you search by one of those more common engines that the parts companies sell more of. The hope is there are some better ones out there that don't fail as easily.
 
Replaced my spark plugs.

Old plugs were Champion 3415s (RN9PYC?), installed when my father had the engine rebuilt during restoration, and they have approx. 2700km on them. They have been replaced with NGK 7131/BPR6ES.

First impression is that the engine runs smoother, and according to the butt dyno, the car seems to pull a bit harder and the engine seems to spin a bit quicker.

Plugs in the picture are left --> right, from the driver's side to passenger side. Incidentally, which cylinder is considered cylinder 1?

As you can see, there is quite a bit of oil fouling on them...I suspect the valve stem seals need replacing as the car smokes on start up after sitting, but doesn't smoke after the initial cloud of smoke clears up.

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I have run nothing but Champions in like for ever.
Had a Renault that I tried some NGK's in and was back to Champs with in a week.
I doesn't matter what plug is used in an engine that oils up like the plugs in the pictures show you will have fowling issues.
Number one plug is closest to the cam gear.
Number four is closest to the flywheel.
Four is the one you set the timing on.

Forgot to mention I almost hit a deer this am.
Went up to check the mail and decided to go for a short spin.
I go about four miles up to the high school around the buildings and back home.
School is empty and the road around it is kind of like a go kart track.
Was headed up the last hill doing about 50 when the deer stepped out of the tall grass right in front of me.
It is nice to have good brakes.
Glad I hadn't put on the new tire yet as I am sure I scrubbed some patches if the smoke is any indication.
Car and deer are ok but I didn't check the seat upholstery when I go back to the house.
 
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Took me about a week of off and on working on putting in the new water pump and all new hoses pertaining to the cooling system. Flushed the whole system and got all the sludge out, now the car runs nice and cool. Today I put new Redline gear oil in and the car shifts so smooth now. Had to take the car out and find possible photo shoot locations around town
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