What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

So question... and this is due to my noobness... cleaning and degreasing the motor from my 82’x19 project... noticed a sticker in the back of the motor in pink (faded red?): “spyder 1500”. Is this relevant at all?

Would be nice to see some nicely lit, clearly focused pix of that sticker!

Probably FIAT's technique for a quick and obvious way of differentiating engines to facilitate inventory keeping and/or the assembly line. Of course "spyder" is a time honored Italian reference for a convertible car and the targa X was the closest thing to a convertible that used the 1500cc engine at the time. According to the FIAT SOHC entry in wikipedia.org, other cars from the early 1980s that were using the 1500 would have been what was called the Strada in the US and Ritmo rest-of-world, and one offering of the Regatta. Possibly also small commercial vehicles but those are not on the wiki article's chart.
 
Of course "spyder" is a time honored Italian reference for a convertible car and the targa X was the closest thing to a convertible that used the 1500cc engine at the time.
That would help explain it, otherwise it threw me what "spyder" it is referring to. Assuming the sticker even belonged on this engine. You never know what random decal got stuck on at any point in its life (including at the factory for that matter).
 
It’s pretty faded and simple. The car from what I can tell was last registered in Vermont in 1987, and appears to have been crammed in a barn or garage. Engine is in the basement now and the rest is up in blocks covered for winter. I was excited to see that it isn’t frozen up as I was able to rotate it without the timing belt on. Again this is a first for me. What I’m concerned with is that it looks like this car has had the plugs out for a very long time.... so I’m sure there is junk in the cylinders . So the question is should I pull the head? I’m leaning towards that and replacing all gaskets since I have it out anyway. Again... never done this before lol.
 
It’s pretty faded and simple. The car from what I can tell was last registered in Vermont in 1987, and appears to have been crammed in a barn or garage. Engine is in the basement now and the rest is up in blocks covered for winter. I was excited to see that it isn’t frozen up as I was able to rotate it without the timing belt on. Again this is a first for me. What I’m concerned with is that it looks like this car has had the plugs out for a very long time.... so I’m sure there is junk in the cylinders . So the question is should I pull the head? I’m leaning towards that and replacing all gaskets since I have it out anyway. Again... never done this before lol.
Forgot picture:
22CAC328-75DD-40BF-B3D5-95F172FD8DA7.jpeg
 
So the question is should I pull the head?
I totally get where you are coming from. It would be nice to just be able to clean things up and get it running. But with the uncertainty of things that could also be a mistake (creating further damage if something is wrong).

Perhaps two approaches to consider; one is to do some testing (compression, leak down, oil pressure, etc) by cranking it on the starter then decide how far to go, the other is to decide now it should be gone through regardless - for peace of mind. You state you've never gone through an engine before so it might seem easier to do the first approach. On the other hand it really isn't too difficult to do (for the most part, more on that later) and you will learn a lot in the process. Plus your engine will be much better off for it.

If I were to remove the head and tear it down for cleaning, inspection and measurement/assessment, then I'd plan to replace the bearings, rings, seals and gaskets (at the least). So that's where you will want to get the stripped block and crank to a machine shop to hone the cylinders and polish the crank journals (again, assuming everything is within spec). If needed they can clean and measure everything for you also.

So I guess it depends on your goals for the car. Is this a very low budget project that will rarely be driven and isn't worth refreshing the engine? What's the condition of everything else, is the vehicle good enough to invest in? How confident are you in learning something new and willing to venture into doing this? Do you have the basic tools, equipment, workspace, etc, to do it?
 
I totally get where you are coming from. It would be nice to just be able to clean things up and get it running. But with the uncertainty of things that could also be a mistake (creating further damage if something is wrong).

Perhaps two approaches to consider; one is to do some testing (compression, leak down, oil pressure, etc) by cranking it on the starter then decide how far to go, the other is to decide now it should be gone through regardless - for peace of mind. You state you've never gone through an engine before so it might seem easier to do the first approach. On the other hand it really isn't too difficult to do (for the most part, more on that later) and you will learn a lot in the process. Plus your engine will be much better off for it.

If I were to remove the head and tear it down for cleaning, inspection and measurement/assessment, then I'd plan to replace the bearings, rings, seals and gaskets (at the least). So that's where you will want to get the stripped block and crank to a machine shop to hone the cylinders and polish the crank journals (again, assuming everything is within spec). If needed they can clean and measure everything for you also.

So I guess it depends on your goals for the car. Is this a very low budget project that will rarely be driven and isn't worth refreshing the engine? What's the condition of everything else, is the vehicle good enough to invest in? How confident are you in learning something new and willing to venture into doing this? Do you have the basic tools, equipment, workspace, etc, to do it?

Thanks dr Jeff. I’m going to just see where this going I think... money and time depending for sure. Mechanically I’m sure I can do most of the work. I spent 20 years in manufacturing between machine shops doing aviation work and plastic industry, before moving in to healthcare and consulting. My resume looks bizarre. Engineering degrees, healthcare degrees and management degrees . And a sprinkle of law education because I guess I’m sadistic. Lol. My challenges are not having a garage and not having anyone ever show me how to do this. So crossing fingers and developing some patience lol. Today was more degreasing and popped the head off. I’m guessing the spark plugs had been out a real long time. But little bit of cleaning and looks a ton better:
AB25785E-C72D-4D02-9106-1F0AA1842E2B.jpeg
59A8C7BB-9FF8-4BCC-8583-81C572E42C3B.jpeg
 
Today was popping off the oil pan and giving it a once over. Looked Like minimal if any muck on the bottom. So gave it a quick clean and degrease inside and out and popped it back on temporarily until I get a gasket kit. 11786B93-8876-4ABF-B587-9C06EB86B3FA.jpeg5195F126-77C2-48D5-8780-2DD2F2741CD4.jpeg
 
Today was popping off the oil pan and giving it a once over. Looked Like minimal if any muck on the bottom. So gave it a quick clean and degrease inside and out and popped it back on temporarily until I get a gasket kit. View attachment 38719View attachment 38720
That's actually pretty clean for most engines this age.

Some things to consider while you have the pan off. Remove the bearing caps and check the condition of the bearings and journals. Remove the oil galley plugs and clean out the passages. Remove the oil pump pick up and clean behind that screen. Check the condition of the thrust bearings. Check the dizzy/oil pump drive gear and bushing for play. I might be forgetting others, hopefully someone can add to the list.
 
I don't know if it would work for this, but I recall there have been posts about some "marker pens" that do a good job of recreating that faux chrome look.

They are silver paint and look it rather than chrome. If you did the whole thing the one way it would be fine, transitioning from the one to the other not so much.
 
Got around to fixing those little plastic filler pieces under the headlights. They had been stuck on with double sided foam tape by somebody previously. As the pins where broken off I’ve drilled two holes and planned on using plastic snap rivets to fix them....that didn’t work, I need to get larger ones so ended up using self tapping screws in to panel capture nuts as an interim.





Bit of a PIA to do in actuality, I’ve chipped the paint and had to cut the screws I had down....oh well
 
Some cosmetic spray paint tidying up, been bugging me for a while. Wiper arms where rusting and peeling paint and the rear plate lights had been sprayed previously but where chipped around the edges. Original these where chrome effect but there’s hardly any left so spray paint it is. Also the Aluminium 2mm plate arrived today so I can crack on and make a new distributor base plate.....





Hi. What kind of spray paint did you use on the wiper arms? Mine also need a refresher, but I’ve never painted any before. Did they need any sanding or primer, or just bang, black spray paint?
Thanks
 
Back
Top