What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

NEG said:
Short drive shaft done. For reference no need to remove this one, remove the brake calliper, undo the three short bolts holding the drive shaft inner boot plate and pull the boot forward. Line up the tripode cutouts then disconnect the hub from the strut and swing the A arm down pulling the shaft out of the box. Have a tray underneath to catch the oil. The shaft can then be swung to the rear of the car to gain access to the tripode and boot…
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Just did these last week. I did a complete disassembly because I also needed to replace the shock tower mounts. Also, as long as I was in the neighborhood, had new A-arm bushings pressed in. Changed the oil too. All of my ball joints looked/felt good so I left them alone. This week will be all the junk out front.
 
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Went on a nice little drive after finally getting the injector harness back together. I definitely need to get the injector cooling fan working, so I won't be driving it much until that's sorted. All I'm missing is the plastic boot that goes on the blower and connects to the engine access panel in the trunk...If anyone has one of those lying around that they don't need, Id be happy to pay whatever you want for it.

In other news, I managed to acquire both a PerformanceElectronics PE3-8400, and a Microsquirt that I currently have no application for. There is a slim chance I will have to give one of them back at some point- more likely the Microsquirt, but it is very, very tempting to have a digital ECU. I really love how period correct and classic the LJet system is, but with a digital setup, diagnosing the high rpm issue I'm having would be an absolute piece of cake- not to mention the much improved idle and cold start that's possible with a full digital ECU and sequential injector firing. Ultimately I'd move the ignition to the ECU as well but I see little reason I couldn't do it only for fueling as a first step ( both ecus support inductive pickup for the rpm input as long as batch fire is enabled). Data logging would be fantastic as well, and the ability to control an electric water pump and meth injection pump seamlessly with greater control than thermoswitches and pressure sensors would be fantastic.

It's tempting, but seeing as the car has much more significant issues than that- it's likely one of those long-term projects.
 
Jonohhh said:
Went on a nice little drive after finally getting the injector harness back together. I definitely need to get the injector cooling fan working, so I won't be driving it much until that's sorted. All I'm missing is the plastic boot that goes on the blower and connects to the engine access panel in the trunk...If anyone has one of those lying around that they don't need, Id be happy to pay whatever you want for it.

In other news, I managed to acquire both a PerformanceElectronics PE3-8400, and a Microsquirt that I currently have no application for. There is a slim chance I will have to give one of them back at some point- more likely the Microsquirt, but it is very, very tempting to have a digital ECU. I really love how period correct and classic the LJet system is, but with a digital setup, diagnosing the high rpm issue I'm having would be an absolute piece of cake- not to mention the much improved idle and cold start that's possible with a full digital ECU and sequential injector firing. Ultimately I'd move the ignition to the ECU as well but I see little reason I couldn't do it only for fueling as a first step ( both ecus support inductive pickup for the rpm input as long as batch fire is enabled). Data logging would be fantastic as well, and the ability to control an electric water pump and meth injection pump seamlessly with greater control than thermoswitches and pressure sensors would be fantastic.

It's tempting, but seeing as the car has much more significant issues than that- it's likely one of those long-term projects.
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The Performance Electronics ECU is a MUCH better unit. They make the ECU's that several other big companies sell under their own product names. PE does a lot of research and design engineering work as well. They are a great bunch of guys and very friendly to talk to if you have questions. The MicroSquirt will not support full sequential operation. And it has a very limited number of I/O ports, so you cannot run more than a couple of features at once; for example things like idle control valve, electric water pump, meth injection, ignition control, etc.. I also don't care much for the MS documentation. But either ECU can be used depending on your goals, and both will be a upgrade over the stock system. One of the greatest advantages will come from from eliminating the air flow meter, aside from being able to have accurate fuel mixtures and spark timing. ;)
 
Dr.Jeff said:
The Performance Electronics ECU is a MUCH better unit. They make the ECU's that several other big companies sell under their own product names. PE does a lot of research and design engineering work as well. They are a great bunch of guys and very friendly to talk to if you have questions. The MicroSquirt will not support full sequential operation. And it has a very limited number of I/O ports, so you cannot run more than a couple of features at once; for example things like idle control valve, electric water pump, meth injection, ignition control, etc.. I also don't care much for the MS documentation. But either ECU can be used depending on your goals, and both will be a upgrade over the stock system. One of the greatest advantages will come from from eliminating the air flow meter, aside from being able to have accurate fuel mixtures and spark timing. ;)
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The PE is a much, much nicer setup, as you say- the only thing that I'm a little uneasy with is the software. I haven't experimented with it a ton, but from what I've heard from the previous users, the software is quite a time to deal with (even in comparison to a microsquirt) and having an injector open time table instead of a VE table is a bit convoluted for something like a standalone. Thankfully the calculations (VE > Inj Time) aren't all that terrible- many of the factors stay constant as rpm and load change, but it's something I'd have to do a lot more research on. Regardless you're right, and I don't think my incompetence with ecus like this should be a reason to use a worse bit of hardware, and considering the MS is more likely to get taken away, it is indeed the better option.

I'm spoiled in that I currently primarily work with a MoTeC M150 where almost everything is...well, as you'd expect. At least for the engine tuning side of things. But a MoTeC is quite a ways out of reach and definitely over the top given the car looks the way it does 😂
 
Jonohhh said:
The PE is a much, much nicer setup, as you say- the only thing that I'm a little uneasy with is the software. I haven't experimented with it a ton, but from what I've heard from the previous users, the software is quite a time to deal with (even in comparison to a microsquirt) and having an injector open time table instead of a VE table is a bit convoluted for something like a standalone. Thankfully the calculations (VE > Inj Time) aren't all that terrible- many of the factors stay constant as rpm and load change, but it's something I'd have to do a lot more research on. Regardless you're right, and I don't think my incompetence with ecus like this should be a reason to use a worse bit of hardware, and considering the MS is more likely to get taken away, it is indeed the better option.

I'm spoiled in that I currently primarily work with a MoTeC M150 where almost everything is...well, as you'd expect. At least for the engine tuning side of things. But a MoTeC is quite a ways out of reach and definitely over the top given the car looks the way it does 😂
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Honestly they are all a bit of a chore to figure out and program. But as you say, some worse than others. Once you decide which one to use (if you decide to use one), maybe pay for a online "EFI Tuning" class that focuses on that software and/or hardware. There's several of them available at reasonable prices. And COVID has made this sort of online learning thing more popular than ever.

What do you mean by having to return one? Did you buy them or are they on loan?
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Honestly they are all a bit of a chore to figure out and program. But as you say, some worse than others. Once you decide which one to use (if you decide to use one), maybe pay for a online "EFI Tuning" class that focuses on that software and/or hardware. There's several of them available at reasonable prices. And COVID has made this sort of online learning thing more popular than ever.

What do you mean by having to return one? Did you buy them or are they on loan?
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They're old unused hardware from a racing team- the microsquirt I may have to return for a program I may run this fall for the new members to teach them basic tuning and electrical (the microsquirt isn't too dissimilar to the MoTeC in terms of tuning, VS the PE).

The PE has been sitting in a box for about four years at this point...there's no use for it now that we've switched completely over to MoTeC. I'll be on the team for at least another 3 years, so I have that amount of time to decide to buy it if the team wants to sell it, or see if I can do anything meaningful with it.
 
Jonohhh said:
Went on a nice little drive after finally getting the injector harness back together. I definitely need to get the injector cooling fan working, so I won't be driving it much until that's sorted. All I'm missing is the plastic boot that goes on the blower and connects to the engine access panel in the trunk...If anyone has one of those lying around that they don't need, Id be happy to pay whatever you want for it.

In other news, I managed to acquire both a PerformanceElectronics PE3-8400, and a Microsquirt that I currently have no application for. There is a slim chance I will have to give one of them back at some point- more likely the Microsquirt, but it is very, very tempting to have a digital ECU. I really love how period correct and classic the LJet system is, but with a digital setup, diagnosing the high rpm issue I'm having would be an absolute piece of cake- not to mention the much improved idle and cold start that's possible with a full digital ECU and sequential injector firing. Ultimately I'd move the ignition to the ECU as well but I see little reason I couldn't do it only for fueling as a first step ( both ecus support inductive pickup for the rpm input as long as batch fire is enabled). Data logging would be fantastic as well, and the ability to control an electric water pump and meth injection pump seamlessly with greater control than thermoswitches and pressure sensors would be fantastic.

It's tempting, but seeing as the car has much more significant issues than that- it's likely one of those long-term projects.
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I think you should have a look at the product range from MaxxECU as well. I think their smallest model offers more functionality than Microsquirt and their s/w is very good.
 
There are a couple of brands like that that are popular in Europe but not as much here. Maxx ECU, ECU Master, VEMS, etc. They are very good, however with the shipping expense they can be a little costly for us compared to things like MegaSquirt. I'm sure that is why those European brands are not as popular here, MS is stiff competition in the US market. I know at least one of those brands opened a US based location to sell and support their ECU's. Sadly it did not do well. Unfortunate because it and some of those others would be great options if more people knew about them and learned how to set them up.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Maxx ECU, ECU Master, VEMS, etc. They are very good, however with the shipping expense they can be a little costly for us compared to things like MegaSquirt.
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The price seems to be about the same as here actually. But it is also a matter of chosing a product that the tuner is comfortable with (unless tuning the car yourself). My tuner works with most brands incl. Megasquirt. I have no shares in the MaxxECU company but I (and my tuner) can verify their products are very high quality so I am not surprised it is used by many top ranked racing teams.
In this case @Jonohhh is looking for a quite simple unit. I suggest comparing the features and details on Microsquirt and MaxxECU Mini, especially built in map sensor and real time logging possibilities.
I met the MaxxECU developers at a track event last week and had a good discussion about modern engine management and tuning. They are constantly improving the product based on customer feedback and I had three s/w updates for my unit during my first year. They sell 700 units per month so compared to Megasquirt they are small. But very committed.
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Bjorn Nilson said:
But it is also a matter of chosing a product that the tuner is comfortable with (unless tuning the car yourself).
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That was what I was trying to say earlier. Unfortunately here there are not many specialists that know about them. Same for some of the other non-US based ECU brands.

When I was considering which ECU I would go with I contacted each of the companies that I was considering, asking for a list of approved tuners in America. Most of the companies had none. And when I contacted the one or two recommendations I did get, they said they really do not do many of them and sounded very unsure. Plus they were located in another part of the country.

It seems the high end (and by that I mean very expensive) brands like MoTec or AEM are popular with the tuners here, as is MegaSquirt, but not most of the others. That was a factor for me because I've had no prior experience setting up a aftermarket standalone ECU and wanted a good resource available if needed. Unfortunate because there are some great products out there that offer excellent features at reasonable prices, but no support here.
 
Hi everyone today I took the trunk down to metal and prime with epoxy, getting closer to paint ,not working much on it lately the grand kids are around for a few weeks but that’s good spending time with them .
 
Hi all. I bought this survivor a week ago. That's my kid watching his new car being unloaded. I've always admired these unique beauties and was actually looking for a newer car for my kid when I found this one. Absolutely untouched since new, with the exception (I hope) of regular maintenance. It runs but I think the gas is questionable and is loaded up with Seafoam, so it's even less enthusiastic than usual. This weekend: oil and filter change, plugs, points, wires, carb cleanup, tires, cooling system flush, hoses....and then Monday comes along and kills the fun. My kid has a real appreciation for classics, so I'm hoping this goes well. Gonna lean heavily on your expertise!
 

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79X1 said:
Hi all. I bought this survivor a week ago. That's my kid watching his new car being unloaded. I've always admired these unique beauties and was actually looking for a newer car for my kid when I found this one. Absolutely untouched since new, with the exception (I hope) of regular maintenance. It runs but I think the gas is questionable and is loaded up with Seafoam, so it's even less enthusiastic than usual. This weekend: oil and filter change, plugs, points, wires, carb cleanup, tires, cooling system flush, hoses....and then Monday comes along and kills the fun. My kid has a real appreciation for classics, so I'm hoping this goes well. Gonna lean heavily on your expertise!
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Welcome!

An early 79. Yes replace all hoses first and the timing belt. Get rid of the old gas. Consider acquiring a new carb which isn’t so strangled.

Depending on where you live there is a veritable plethora of emissions stuff that should/could be excised from the car.

There was a member who documented this in detail on a 79 and Dr.Jeff has also been doing this on a similar vintage example.

Ask plenty of questions.

Congrats to you both.
 
Awesome! Very excited. I've had tons of cars but never an Italian. My own ride is a '65 Mustang convertible, but secretly (okay, not a secret now) I cannot wait to get this thing on the road. kmead, thanks for the advice. Kinda like any old car you buy without knowing its heritage, start with the stuff that'll fail first! I'm in New Mexico, which is normally bad, but for an older car, there are no emissions requirements. So out goes all that crap. Thanks for all the thumbs up. This is gonna be FUN.
 
Finished fab'n some brackets to relocate the overflow tank. I've done this on my last 3 builds. Uses existing mount locations, gets the tank away from the exhaust and tilts it so the cap is straight up...but mostly makes the engine compartment look less cluttered (IMO). Now I gotta go get a new spot-weld bit to take that stupid tab off the shock tower.
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