darwoodious
Darin Nelson
It's like your own little race track. Love it!
What did you do to your X1/9 today ?
- Thread starter Eastep
- Start date
rocco79/138
True Classic
Ha! I thought the same thing!!! NASCAR? But then he threw in the off road part of the circuit!!! Oh yeah! Now we're going hybrid!! Nice!
BA Oh
Bill A
I enjoy, much more when using spotter. With spotter can make left turns and faster laps both ways, allows for use of entire street section. Was solo running right turns due to hedge blocking vision to right. Had to keep X in right street lane, occasionally meet up with startled street driver. Bike races are also quicker when using spotter. 12 acre off road section usually gets dirt or mountain bikes and ATVs. X stays close to pavement in mowed sections.
Stoney#1
Stoney
Finished the timing belt replacement, installed new dist cap and rotor. Grandson and I got the timing set. Everything worked out fine.
May need to replace the temp switch for radiator. Fan does not start or run at proper temp. Is there proper way to install bypass switch to control rad fan for back up?
It was a great day, especially working with Grandson.
Stoney
May need to replace the temp switch for radiator. Fan does not start or run at proper temp. Is there proper way to install bypass switch to control rad fan for back up?
It was a great day, especially working with Grandson.
Stoney
Rod Midkiff
True Classic
Yes you can. I have a ground switch on my consol that grounds the relay. (thinking about also adding an outside switch to put battery power right to the fan)
Dan Sarandrea (Phila)
Waitin' On Parts...
Finished the timing belt replacement, installed new dist cap and rotor. Grandson and I got the timing set. Everything worked out fine.
May need to replace the temp switch for radiator. Fan does not start or run at proper temp. Is there proper way to install bypass switch to control rad fan for back up?
It was a great day, especially working with Grandson.
Stoney
One test for the temp fan switch is to short/jumper together the two contacts in the harness-side plug that connects to the switch pigtail, then place the ignition switch in run position. The fan should come on because the jumper wire is simulating the closing of the circuit by a properly working fan temp switch.
If it does, then rather than the switch having gone bad, it's more likely that you have some air accumulated in the rad---it seems to want to collect in that left side tank where the switch is installed. Too much air in that area, and the switch never gets much hot coolant flowing over it, and consequently does not "know" that the fan needs to be turned on. Once the air is bled out and the system topped off, reconnect the electrical plugs, start and run the car, and watch the temp gage and listen for the fan, it should come on when the temp needle is in the range of 190-200. If still not working, now you can focus on the switch itself, perhaps removing it and testing function in a pot of heated water with a multimeter.
If the fan does not come on with the above jumper test, then there is an electrical issue afoot---fuses, grounds, connections, etc should be checked.
rocco79/138
True Classic
I installed a switch in my console it just creates the jumper Dan is referring to. This means all the rest of the electrical for the fan must work. I think the fan and the horn share circuit protection so if you horn sounds the fan circuit has power. Pay close attention to the grounds in that circuit.
The switch does not energize the fan on my '79 until a couple clicks over 190°. This is in the pucker zone for me but I have remember the temp meter is really just a really fancy idiot light and should be taken with a grain of salt.
Unless you have set up a calibrated measuring system to monitor the actual temp and set your system to match. Otherwise it is just a suggestion.
Regards
The switch does not energize the fan on my '79 until a couple clicks over 190°. This is in the pucker zone for me but I have remember the temp meter is really just a really fancy idiot light and should be taken with a grain of salt.
Unless you have set up a calibrated measuring system to monitor the actual temp and set your system to match. Otherwise it is just a suggestion.
Regards
rocco79/138
True Classic
I have plenty to do, as my discussion post revealed... In spite of the mechanical things I have taken it upon myself to start prepping the body for a little remediation. There are some serious (welding required) issues but lots of dings and surface imperfections that are fairly easy and quick to remedy.
Pretty sure I am deleting the side molding that seems to be on every 1979 ever minted! My 80 did not have them and I like the cleaner line sans moldings!
Regards
Pretty sure I am deleting the side molding that seems to be on every 1979 ever minted! My 80 did not have them and I like the cleaner line sans moldings!
Regards
Stoney#1
Stoney
I will go out and try burping the baby right after dinner to see if that helps. Will keep you posed!
Stoney
Stoney#1
Stoney
Thanks to all for suggestions
I went with the easiest way and bled air from radiator. Left it bleed for a quite a while to be sure all air was out. retightened bleed screw and run tem up to a little over 190, no fan Will try this again just to be sure. I hooked the fan wires directly to the main wires going to switch and the fan did run so I do have power. After trying the first step again, I will remove switch and see if it works in water on stove.
Thanks again
Stoney
kmead
Old enough to know better
The switch comes on at 192 nominally, however 190 at the engine where the gauge sensor lives is not 190 at the radiator. Additionally the gauge and or the sender on the engine is not necessarily accurate unless you have calibrated it.
I would let the engine get well above the 190 mark before making the assumption that there is an issue with the fan switch. Overheating doesn't occur until well above 212 degrees (more like 230 or more due to the system being pressurized.)
I would let the engine get well above the 190 mark before making the assumption that there is an issue with the fan switch. Overheating doesn't occur until well above 212 degrees (more like 230 or more due to the system being pressurized.)
rocco79/138
True Classic
+1 for Karl's post! I would add that the switch is pretty simple and relatively inexpensive. If you are taking the old one out I would just replace it. Unless you are draining the system you will need to plug the hole while testing. I just bought a new one and swapped it out. You can test it if you like but whether you test the new on or not you only lay under the car the one time and get just a little wet once...
For me the was more than worth the $11 cost of the part!
Regards
For me the was more than worth the $11 cost of the part!
Regards
bensonbe
True Classic
I replaced the muffler today pretty straight forward except for getting it in and out, once I figured that out it was not hard. My old muffler's tail pipe separated from the weld and was leaking and rattling real bad. I got a new one an ANSA from Midwest Bayless very pleased.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Re-welded the right side exhaust hanger pin - the weld broke. I had welded it previously when my TIG was failing - the weld was faulty. Also replaced the old shift knob with a nice Momo knob from Allison Auto
Took the pass door apart & readjusted the window glass channel to allieviate the binding condition I was having about 2/3 the way up. All better now.
Took the pass door apart & readjusted the window glass channel to allieviate the binding condition I was having about 2/3 the way up. All better now.
Stoney#1
Stoney
Replaced door hinge bolts with Allen head fitting rather than Phillips. Old ones were buggered up, looked crappy. Also replaced passenger door pin switch for dome light. Still working on the wiring for that, and replaced holder strap for driver side door. Lots of little things because I was stalling. Hoping gremlin appears to replace the accelerator cable. Not looking forward to that. From what I read, it is a lot like replacing clutch and brake master cylinders. Still reading to find out best way to tackle that.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Nowhere near as bad as the Masters! Most annoying thing is all the OTHER things that have to come out first to make it easier - pass. seat, handbrake lever, etc. I printed out the directions given from someone on here. I did have to remove the pedal & finagle the cable end out of the tunnel to swap over to the new one. Also use the old cable (cut rearward of the guide conduit in the tunnel) to snake the new cable through to the front...
rocco79/138
True Classic
I finally removed the metal/rubber door protectostrips! I have been wanting to get these off since I got the car! I thought they were drilled and had a spring clip... Nope! Riveted! what? Anyway, the little holes look better than the molding did! Probably added 3-5 MPH top speed!
These were a huge hit in the late 70s! Neither my '80 nor my '83 had them so I was genetically predisposed to disliking them!
Regards
These were a huge hit in the late 70s! Neither my '80 nor my '83 had them so I was genetically predisposed to disliking them!
Regards
dragonsgate
True Classic
For a long time I have been Annoyed with the windshield wipers not going all the way to left on the drivers side. If I set the wipers up so they went all the way over then they set higher than I liked when not in use. If I put them lower then there was that rain spattered gap in front of me. A couple of weeks ago I took the arm off the wiper motor and move the pin out by a sixteenth of an inch. The wipers rested low to the bottom of the windshield like I want and go all the way across the way I want. Two days ago I got to test them in the rain. I had pretty much forgotten about my mod and was headed back home after my daily mail run when it dawned on me that the wipers were working as planned. If anyone tries this modification remember that 1/16 inch is enough
