What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

Temporarily losing my garage as we convert it to a place for my wife's disabled uncle. Got a shipping container to hold everything but the fiat. Bought a portable garage for the fiat. Got the frame up and the beginning of the floor.

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Odie
 
Temporarily losing my garage as we convert it to a place for my wife's disabled uncle. Got a shipping container to hold everything but the fiat. Bought a portable garage for the fiat. Got the frame up and the beginning of the floor.

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Odie

Before you go farther, I would recomend putting a tarp or preferably 8mil plastic with overlapped and taped seams down under the whole structure to keep the moisture from the ground from filling the space. You will be surprised how much moisture can come up through the ground.
 
Before you go farther, I would recomend putting a tarp or preferably 8mil plastic with overlapped and taped seams down under the whole structure to keep the moisture from the ground from filling the space. You will be surprised how much moisture can come up through the ground.
Done a ton of research. There are 2 schools of thought. 1 says put the tarp down. The other says putting a tarp will stop ground moisture out but will trap everything else in. I am going with the treated 2 by's as a frame, then putting down limestone to soak any ground moisture. Then plywood over the top of the frame. The best part this will be short term. Once we get her uncle moved in we are selling his house and building a new garage. A much better garage than I have :) 30x45 with a gabled upstairs for storage.

Odie
 
Done a ton of research. There are 2 schools of thought. 1 says put the tarp down. The other says putting a tarp will stop ground moisture out but will trap everything else in. I am going with the treated 2 by's as a frame, then putting down limestone to soak any ground moisture. Then plywood over the top of the frame. The best part this will be short term. Once we get her uncle moved in we are selling his house and building a new garage. A much better garage than I have :) 30x45 with a gabled upstairs for storage.

Odie
Addendum forgot. There will be a tarp below where the car is. Just not the whole 10x20. Hoping i will get the best of both worlds.

Odie
 
Depending on where you live, keeping out pests/rodents might also be a concern. I'm sure you already have that covered already though.
 
Getting ready for midwest bayless next weekend. We decided to try to get it on the car hauler rather than flat tow. So. The lip on the hauler is 18 inches. His ramps are 4 feet. I am going to make 2x12 8 foot extensions. In the pic the jack stand is 18 inches. Looks like if I cut angled 4x4 about 1 foot spacing I should be good. Or I was thinking of diagonal cutting another 2x12 for the side risers. The block at the end of the temp 2x4 is 12 inches high
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Odie
 
Odie, here is how to do it:

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According to the caption, the picture was taken shortly before it all went wrong.
 
Odie, here is how to do it:

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According to the caption, the picture was taken shortly before it all went wrong.
crap...
good news is i am only going up 18". and I will have supports every foot on the 2x12s. although I do have a bunch of paint pails like they are using....
so are there any recommendations how else to get it on the trailer?

Odie
 
I think what you are doing is the best way overall. I was just being funny with the picture. Although I will say I've found wood boards like that require a fair amount of support along the bottom. Otherwise they bow and crack/break. Surprising how even a light weight car like the X will snap a heavy board when the force is concentrated on each tire to the wood.

Totally unrelated to your situation, but I love the car trailers that have air-bag suspensions allowing them to drop flat on the ground. It leaves about 2" of rise that you simply drive onto.

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I think what you are doing is the best way overall. I was just being funny with the picture. Although I will say I've found wood boards like that require a fair amount of support along the bottom. Otherwise they bow and crack/break. Surprising how even a light weight car like the X will snap a heavy board when the force is concentrated on each tire to the wood.

Totally unrelated to your situation, but I love the car trailers that have air-bag suspensions allowing them to drop flat on the ground. It leaves about 2" of rise that you simply drive onto.

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LOL I will ask the wife. those look awesome! knew you were kidding on the pic, kinda. kidding but wanted me to be aware of possible issues if I dont do it right. so I am thinking of putting angle iron on the sides. That will add a bit more support. also found an online ramp calculator and it says I will need about 10' total, which looks about right. I was thinking of doubling up with the ramps we have, now I am thinking I am just going to 10 ft total.. do you think that support every foot would be sufficient?

odie
 
I would apply at least three cross ties going directly across from one ramp to the other so they can’t flip out and change width, dropping the car. Front, middle and near the trailer

Use screws not nails. Faster to take apart, reassemble and won’t just pull out without a serious force
 
Odie, a couple (2 or 3) supports should be good. Going from the ground up to the bottom of the planks to support the weight as the car moves along the board. They will bow the most in the middle, longest point within the span.

And Special K has a great idea, something to keep the boards from moving off to the sides. Also to attach the top ends to the trailer (or whatever these ramps reach to) so they cannot slip off the ends.

For supports/braces that need to be removed each time, maybe you can find a way to drill holes and bolt them them together. I've even used wing-nuts so they are easy to put together/tear down without tools.



:) Darin, I said I love them. I didn't say I could afford them.

Actually I've been toying with the idea of converting my existing trailer to air-bags with swing-arms. It would allow the trailer to drop in the back, like the second picture (above). Having built a couple air-suspension cars it really isn't difficult. And it does not have to be all that expensive if you keep it manual fill/empty (vs computer controlled ride height).
 
If you can find a small hillside with the right characteristics, you might be able to back the truck up to it and drive right on without ramps. I've seen it done.
 
Forgot to add, I'm not sure angle iron is necessary. Oddly it really isn't very strong along its length, the way you need it to support the wood from end to end. A box tube would be much stronger. But with some supports under the boards the extra metal reinforcements shouldn't be needed. And they add a LOT of weight (you'll be surprised how heavy these ramps will be).

"dllubin" just reminded me. Parking the wheels of the trailer/dolly in the gutter at the end of a sloped driveway brings everything much flatter. But unfortunately you won't know if that can be done once you get to your destination.
 
Hmm, I guess I better pick up my buddies trailer early next week in case loading will be a problem. I too will be making my way to Ohio next weekend.
See you there.
 
you could meet up with a flatbed tow truck and have them load it/unload it.

I have done that many times into moving trucks for people.

But I drive mine up onto an equipment hauling trailer and don't touch (Had a horrible loading angle)
 
Rod, how does that work with a flatbed to load the car onto a trailer? Do you put it on the flatbed then transfer it directly across to the trailer somehow? Guess I don't know enough about how flatbeds work. Thanks.
 
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