Discussion in 'Workshop Forum' started by Fiatfiend, Jun 12, 2018.
This isn't done yet, but I think it will work. The engine cover closes over it.
Can’t say do I like it or not, it’s too impressive or expressive
If goal was flow, then gofred pipe makes it a bit slower
Aaam hmm pipe that have grooves, so in that way it can be easily bent..(I’m still learning English, and sometimes take risk-trying to use words in Latvian-maybe they will work )
No problem. Well, it's enormous pipe. 4-inches in diameter. And it goes through a high-flow air filter and then to the side scoop when it's done. The air will be fresh exterior air and I'm hoping for a small ram-air effect.
Was at a car show this weekend, the car across from me was a '71 Chevelle with a Chevy Bow Tie 572 cu in crate engine, and had a twin Vortech supercharger setup on it. The intake "cap" on top of the carb that received the two feed ducts from the two Vortech superchargers looked remarkably like what your pic shows on top of the X carb.
It's a low profile cap from Spectre. I would have done it with a stock round Fiat breather, but I didn't have one. After I looked at the pretty aluminum caps, I knew I'd go that direction.
I had to make a round adapter to fit the Weber 34 under there.
Hmmm, not sure whether I like it, or not!! Maybeeee......a bit too "clunky-looking" for me?
cheers, IanL - NZ
Well, believe me, it beats the dirty rectangular filter that used to be there.
That looks very nice. Well done!
FYI for those wanting something similar:
Citroen DS used 34DATRs. They can with a very similar carb snorkle. They can be sourced on eBay UK, DE and AUS, fairly often. US eBay occasionally has them, listed.
Only one problem I can see. Now you need to detail the rest of the engine bay to live up to the new standard. LOTS of polishing in your future! heh.
It looks like a fancy version of what I built in the 70s by putting a 4" (ovalized) fitting on the stock air cleaner where the snorkel used to be and putting a round 4" fitting on the driver's side intake vent. I used dryer vent hose to connect them so I guess that I am guilty of using "gofred" pipe as well. I'm not sure how much difference the outside air hose made but removing the snorkel and adding a 4" opening did improve performance. The air opening on the stock air cleaner is barely the size of a quarter.
Looks nice. One time on a long highway trip, I had my hand hanging out the window. I must have just waxed the car so I was caressing the side of the door idly as the miles passed. I thought about the side scoops and wondered how effective they really were so I sat up straight and reached back and put my hand on the scoop to see if I could get any sense of the air rushing into it. I was surprised to feel warm air coming out (anyone else ever feel this?). Which indicated to me that the pressure in the engine compartment was higher than the pressure at the entrance to the scoop. So (I think) in order to get a ram-air effect, you need to seal your intake hose to the scoop or you will be basically sucking-in engine compartment air.
Interesting! - so recently I mounted an anemometer on the LH scoop with a modified grille (I had a spare scoop and opened up all of the grille slats).
I drove at 100km/h and stuck the sensor far out of the window. It was not a windy day. I read around 100km/h.
I then put the sensor in the duct as shown below, and taped it off. Most of the air was flowing through the sensor.
I installed my modified grille with a new foam gasket, and aligned everything as best as possible.
I drove at 40km/h, 60km/h, 80km/h, 100km/h and another reference speed.
I don't have the figures in front of me, but I can tell you, that at 100km/h, the measurement was barely 20km/h. I have the pressure figures at home, I'll post later.
So, I measured the fresh air vents on my non AC '82. Well, THEY FLOW MORE AIR THAN THE SCOOPS! Doh.. which is barely anything to be honest. My goal was to use those side vents for an intercooler. There is not enough air flow there for an intercooler, it's pointless to be honest.
Mind you, I don't have the plastic "belly pan" undertrays installed.
So Paul, you're right. They barely flow anything.
The air cleaner setup looks nice but out of place. You need to streamline the rest of the components to make everything more homogeneous.
Of course then you will have to do the cockpit, frunk and then there is paint, maybe some rims......
I figure they barely flow anything because the pressure in the engine compartment is high and that is where the scoop goes. If you made the scoop go somewhere else, like say ducted it to the carburetor or some other area, it might flow like gang-busters.
You might be right - I had the car in the garage, and used an air gun parallel to the door and shot air in the general direction of the scoop. I was able to measure a higher wind speed than when the car was in motion.
One thing I concluded (as mentioned above), an intercooler ducted from that scoop won't be effective at all. This test made me decide to buy a 4x6 PWR (C&R Racing in the US) barrel intercooler, made in Australia. They have interesting water channels inside the intercooler. Air-air would prove to be quite ineffective.
(pic for reference, that's not the heat exchanger that I'm going to use, but it will be large - I was afraid of using a cheap ebay barrel intercooler in case the coolant leaked.)
sorry, took this thread into a different direction!
Cool idea! I'm sure it'll work alright with a bit of testing.
One quick comment though - I'd consider changing the tank venting. One reason is for safety. The OE system works well enough, and I guess vents and prevents leakage in case of roll over. Fuel may spill not only to the engine lid, but through the speaker cutout. Not to mention, directly venting to atmosphere isn't really a good idea for many reasons.
Heh, sorry to point out stuff like that. It's in my nature, lol.
So I guess this custom duct and oil rad placement does not do what I expected it too.
I guess I will install my plastic undertrays again and hope it improves it. If you repeat the test with the trays in, let us know what you find out.
Run some simple experiments. What happens to the flow in the ducts if you remove the dizzy access panel (I had posted feeling a lot of air coming in through the hole when I forgot to put that panel back on. You might also try it with the engine cover propped up or even removed. What happens if you remove the access panel between the engine bay and the rear trunck?
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