Wheel choices are boggling my mind

Your rite Jim, its been so long since Ive seen the steelie ones I forgot. I was remembering the the heads of the lugs Ive had being different. My steelies are flat and shallow like a standard bolt and the alloys are like modern style lugs.I don;t really remember my old alloy lugs so they could be similar. The lugs i have now are very different though. And your correct longer as well
 
I think I used the wrong term...

What I HAVE is studs and caps. What I think I'll need is bolts with a strong taper to center the wheel. I think the studs and caps I have come with heavy washers, if memory serves.

I'm trying to combine what you guys have said with what I saw on MB and in my garage.
 
Check the FS section. Tom (AngleT) has a lot of wheel lugs for like $10 IIRCC. They are what you need for any factory wheel :thumbsup:
 
Fiat wheels are hub centric

Hi Dave,

The CD-91 wheels are hub centric and do not depend on the lugs to center the wheel. If you take the center cap off a steel wheel and look at the area where the hub meets the wheel you will see what I am talking about.
fiatwheelonhub9et.jpg

The center hole of the wheel fits perfectly over the raised center of the hub. That is what the term "hub centric" means. The CD-91 wheels have the proper Fiat center hole and will work great with a set off stock lug bolts or with studs and conical lug nuts.

A "lug centric" wheel depends on the lugs to position the wheel. A lot of aftermarket wheels that fit the fiat are lug centric and require a set of custom centering rings to make the wheel hub centric, or a lot of care in centering the wheel with lugs only. Here is a picture of the back of an aftermarket Ansen/Western wheel that has a larger center hole than a stock Fiat wheel. I made a template of the 58.1mm Fiat center hole and laid it over the aftermarket wheel.
ansenfront5vl.jpg

ansenvfiathubsize2dr.jpg

You can see the center hole size difference.
 
So it sounds like the stuff will work

Jeez, I sound like such a doofus. That old Mustang of mine was so original and untampered with that I never looked into options like different wheels. Even if I did, I suppose the differences between Ford and Fiat would eliminate any advantage of knowledge I might gain.

I did a major modification and rebuilding on the Stang suspension, lots of body work, and light repairs and replacements, but what I'm really good at is just maintainance. I remember feeling so dumb here earlier when I had to ask where on the carb the vacuum line from the dizzy goes.

With what I'm used to, it's all exactly stock. I just look in the Ford Mustang/Falcon book or, better, remember where it goes when I take it off.

This Fiat has been modified, smog removed, things removed because they were falling apart, etc, etc. So far it's been the job of a private detective to puzzle out how it's supposed to go.I guess most of you know what I'm talking about.

I think I've got it straight now. What I have for wheel attachment will work, it sounds like, but I still need more nickel or zinc painted wheel studs, etc., and ones in better condition.

Finally, massive thanks to everyone!!!
 
Last edited:
If your car has all the smog gear and stuff gone, your actually ALOT better off for learning the engine bay of the X1/9. If you get a moment just check out the rats nest of wires,tubes hoses and gadgets in a stock smogged X bay. Its a nightmare. As for working on American cars...yeah.. If this is your first Foregin car then yeah its gonna seem different. Europe likes to package things neatly and tightly. They like to use exacting specs and actually "engineer" parts and systems. Not just the "eh, its close" standard of domestic cars. If your car is a '78, then you most certainly DO NOT want to connect the hose from the distributor to ANYTHING! The '78 has a vacuum retard and is a P.O.S
So far though it seems like your on the right track. Its fun to learn new things, and its far more exciting then wrenching on a Mustang :thumbsup:
 
To add to what Mike said above:

There is room for your hand for just about everything you need to get to.

It may not look like it, but there is.

Unlike some manufacturers (I am looking at you Nissan, and GM) where, yeah, you can get to that bolt, but with three extensions and two wobble joints, you can gain ~1" of travel on your ratchet, which results in turning the handle 11695344699654489342325 times to remove that one bolt.
 
Thanks for the encouragment, guys

I'm just tired, I think. It's so blasted hot and sticky here right now, it's like equatorial Guana. Trying to do too much, too. Super daddy, super husband, super employee, super mechanic. Too much.

My wife (Mrs. FiatFiend) is taking a couple of college classes this summer so I've got the kids (5 and 4) by myself a little more than normal. I'd like to think that they are capable of playing outside for 30 minutes at a stretch so I can study the engine bay, but they can't, of course. Screaming and wailing about nothing or "Daddy" this and "Daddy" that.

Yesterday after work I took the carb air filter holder plates off so I could really see the carb. My little girl walks over, says, "What's this daddy?", picks up one of the corks and promptly breaks it in half.

(sigh)

But speaking of the vacuum advance, Eastep. You are right. I couldn't figure out why the vac.ad. wasn't hooked up, so I opened the distributer. (and you're right, too, Kevin, I can get to it, but you can't compare it to the engine bay of a six-cyl. 1966 mustang with no air-cont.) Under the cap, the stock stuff has been totally replaced with Bosch stuff. I had noticed the grey Bosch ele.ig. earlier. There was a plastic shield stamped "Made in Germany" under the rotor. I think I'll just put a little plastic nipple cap over the vac-ad. diaphram nozzle and have done.

Sorry for the bitching. Normally their grandparents will borrow them every thrird or fourth weekend, but they've had their own problems lately.

Dave
 
Last edited:
The best advise is to get a manual of some sort. Some manuals are better then others. I use the old tan covered manual from Bruces parts-bin. Its pretty good. Its a lil vague on a few things such as some specs on dwell settings and such, but its been very helpful over the years. Once you have a manual, life will be easier. After about the second time you have to fix anything in there, you will already know the bay down to minute detail. Oh yeah, try and keep it clean. A can or two of engine degreaser a scrub brush and water will do miricles for you. Just be sure to wrap a plastic bag over the carb if you have an open filter....preferably with the engine cool :doh: Lastly, the '78 has a vacuum "retard" not advance. Later cars had vac-advance, '78' didn't... so re-time you car for a lil better performance is what I'm telling ya;) and no need to cap the nipple on the dizzy....from the sound of it, the PO swapped to a later electric dizzy anyway. <This is the way to go for performance :thumbsup:
 
I got that you said it was a vacuum retard...

...it's just that it seems so odd that I struggle to remember to call it what it is. I just figured I'd cap the nipple on the dizzy to keep it clean inside. I know there's no vacuum being pulled from that.


I've got the Haynes book, a yellow colored book by Clymer Publications and a big, beat-up Faza racing and repair book from the 1970s. I think I'm probably OK on books -- I just need to figure out what's under the hood. And I'm getting there.
 
The thought crossed my mind...

...it kinda looks like a collector's item. The thing is I think the first owner (who really seems to have known what he was doing) made notes and stored receipts and other information in the book. I'd want to check all that through before the book goes.

I wonder if a trade could be worked eventually, with that and with the other things in my garage. I'm going to need center caps, nicer wheel studs and caps, the rear exhaust grating, the front center air deflector, front turn signal light (at least the passenger side) and probably lots more. I think floor pan rust patches, too.

About wheels and tires:

After the kids were in bed and I had ironed for today I went out with a flashlight to look at the tires I have: I've got 185/70's on the front from two different makers -- both cheap looking -- and 165/80's on the back -- Kumho Power Stars. In addition, I have two types of wheels. Three of a kind and one odd one, which is badly rusted and bent. Probably due to be scrapped.
 
I don't have any of those parts to trade ya unfortunately. If you do decide to part with it, pm me and lemme know :thumbsup:
 
Getting back to the wheels ...

Getting back to the wheels; I don't think paint stripper will work. I tried it on my wheels, and it wouldn't touch the clearcoat that was on there (not sure if the factory clearcoat was remarkably good for the day, or someone re-did it, but I got the car only 6 years old and an un-babied 56K so I'd guess the former).
I also tried aircraft paint remover and that didn't work either.

I bead blasted mine on the front. On the back I figured it didn't matter much so I just used AlumaBlast (rattlecan paint, from Eastwood). And I resprayed over the top of everything with clearcoat -best thing I ever did, now the wheels wipe clean with a paper towel.

Now here's the punchline: I really could not tell the difference between the back side of the wheels and the front. That AlumaBlast is an amazingly good match -so much so that I literally cannot see the line between the AlumaBlast and the actual real beadblasted aluminum.

So ... I like the feeling I get knowing that it's the real aluminum I'm looking at, but in retrospect, if I'd just sprayed everything with AlumaBlast, it wouldn't look the least bit different.

Just put a good clearcoat over the top of it.

If you don't have any spray equipment, you can now buy spraycans of 2K (2-component) clearcoat at a good auto paint store. The way it works is there is an internal module of hardener and you release it into the main can, shake it up, and spray. Just like a regular rattlecan. Of course, it will cure in the can in a couple of hours (after you activate it) whether you use it or not, so get everything set up and ready to go before you activate the can.
 
Hi;

1st time poster here, long time Fiat/Lancia fan!

Can anyone LMK what these wheels are called?

I've seen them on few X1/9 and Alfa Spiders.

Marc

IM001632.jpg
 
911YYZ said:
Hi;

1st time poster here, long time Fiat/Lancia fan!

Can anyone LMK what these wheels are called?

I've seen them on few X1/9 and Alfa Spiders.

Marc

IM001632.jpg
Click to expand...
That is a picture of one of the Cromodora CD31 wheels on my 78X. Both the CD31 (13"x5.5") and CD50(14"x6") are referred to as "Daytonas". Here is the bigger picture of the whole car.
photo_op2.JPG
 
I forgot the 13” was called CD-31. Did they also come in 6”?


911YYZ said:
Hi;

1st time poster here, long time Fiat/Lancia fan!

Can anyone LMK what these wheels are called?

I've seen them on few X1/9 and Alfa Spiders.

Marc

IM001632.jpg
Click to expand...
JimD said:
That is a picture of one of the Cromodora CD31 wheels on my 78X. Both the CD31 (13"x5.5") and CD50(14"x6") are referred to as "Daytonas". Here is the bigger picture of the whole car.
View attachment 24550
Click to expand...
JimD said:
That is a picture of one of the Cromodora CD31 wheels on my 78X. Both the CD31 (13"x5.5") and CD50(14"x6") are referred to as "Daytonas". Here is the bigger picture of the whole car.
View attachment 24550
Click to expand...
 
This brochure lists some of the Cromodora Daytonas: CD 31, 32, 33,35, 36, 38, 45, 70, 74, 78, 79, 87. Different combinations of types, sizes, and lug patterns.

cromodora.jpg





Histowheels used to be the go-to site for info on Cromodora, ATS, Campys, etc, but it's been down since early 2019.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top